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INDIA ILLUSTRATED 



WITH PEN AND PENCIL 



,BY THE 

REV. W.'^mWICK, M. A. 

AUTHOR OF " INCIDENTS OF A TOUR AROUND THE WORLD," ETC. 



REVISED AND ENLARGED BY 

PROF. EDWARD P. THWING, M. D., Ph. D. 

MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, CHINA BRANCH ; AUTHOR OF " OUTDOOR LIFE IN EUROPE," 

" OUTDOOR LIFE IN THE ORIENT," ETC. 




NEW YORK 

HURST & COMPANY, Publishers 
134-136 Grand Street 



^ \N 



ARGYLE PRESS, 

pRmTINQ AND BOOKBINDING, 
265 &. 267 CHERRY 6T. , N. V. 



> 






COPYRIGHT ISt'l, 




CONTENTS, 



The Golden Temple, Amritsar Frontispiece 

Heading — The Palace, Lahore, v 

Map of India, viii 

//eadin£-~-PAi.ANQVW, xiii 



Ci}YI<OX. 



POSITION AND ASPECT OF THE ISLAND— GALLE AND COLOMBO— NEWERA ELLIA AND PEDRO- 
TALLA-GALLA— ADAM'S PEAK AND KANDV— THE BO TREE— THE RUINED CITIES, ANURA 
JAPURA AND POLLONARUA— CHRISTIANITY IN THE ISLAND,. pages 13-36 



PAGE 

Thuparama Dagoba, Anurajapura, 12 

Heading — Cottages near Galle, 13 

Singalese Men of the Coast 14 

Singalese Women of the Coast, 14 

On the Road from Galle to Colombo, 16 

Moormen Hawkers, 17 

Cocoa-nut Trees and Climbers, ig 

Buddhist Priest with Novices, 20 

The Pedro-talla-galla Range, 21 

Waterfall of BadduUa Oya, 22 

Ceylon Elephants, 24 

Kandy, 25 

Tailpiece — Cocoa-nut, Pahns, 

V 



Temple of the Dalada, 26 

Buddhist Temple, Lake of Kandy, .... 

Buddha's Tooth. 

Sacred Bo Tree, Anurajapura, 2100 years old, 
Gateway leading to the Sacred Tree, Anurajapura, 
Carved Stone at Anurajapura, 



27 

. 27 
28 

• 29 
30 
Carved Stone at Anurajapura, 30 



Jetawan-arama Dagoba, 

Gal-wihra Pulastipura ; image of Buddha recumbent, 
Ruanvelly Dagoba, Anurajapura, .... 

Mudalizar, or headman, 

Colossal Image of Buddha, 

and Jungle, .... 36 



31 
32 
33 
34 
35 



CONTENTS. 



^im^m ^^t^\^t^^x. 



TINNEVELLY AND TRAVANCORE— THE DRAVIDIAN TEMPLES— MADURA— TRICHINOPOLY— TAN- 
JOKE— MADRAS— THE COAST VOYAGE NORTHWARD, pages 39-84 

Illustrations, ' 



Grand Pagoda, Conjevram ; Gopura and Sacred Tank, 
Heading — Chapel of the Sacred Bull, Chillambaram, 

Initial — Water-Carrier, 

Mahe, Malabar Coast, 



PAGE 

. 38 
39 

■ 39 
40 



Pagoda, Tinnevelly, 42 

Christian Native Girls, 43 

Tamils of South India, 44 

Pagoda of Chillambaram, 46 

Ruined Perumal Pagoda, 47 

Great Hall or Audience Chamber in the Palace of Tirumala, 

Madura, 47 

Tirumala's Choultry, Madura, 48 

Entrance to the Putha Mandapam, Madura, , . . .49 

Entrance to the Great Hall, Palace of Tirumala, Madura, . 50 
Sacred Tank and Island Temple, Madura, . . , .51 

Rock and Temple, Trichinopoly, 52 

Seringham, 1^4 

The Rajah-Gopura, Seringham, 55 

Tudas in the Nilgiris, . 56 

Tanjore, ^8 

Temple of Soubramanya, Tanjore, 59 

Palace of the Rajahs at Tanjore, 60 

Court in Palace of the Rajah, Tanjore, 61 



PAGE 

Bhisti, or Water-Carrier, 62 

Gopura at Combaconum, 64 

Pagoda at Pondicherry, 65 

Pagoda at Chillambaram ; Interior Court, . . . . 66 
Specimens of Sculpture on Pillars, in the Grand Gallery, 

Chillambaram, 68 

Chain cut out of a single stone ; Pillars 27 ft. apart, Chillam- 
baram, 69 

Double Gallery, Chillambaram, 69 

Entrance to the Pagoda, Conjeveram, . . . , '70 

Mahavalipur, the Chaitiya, 71 

Great Rath at Mahavalipur, 72 

Details of Entrances to Subterranean Temples, Maha- 
valipur, 72 

Entrances to Subterranean Temples, Mahavalipur, . . 73 

Tiger Cave, Mahavalipur, . ' 74 

Entrance to Rock Temple, Mahavalipur, .... 74 

Sellers of Milk, Madras 75 

Portion of Gopura at Tirupetty, 78 

Madras Surf, 79 

Palmyras in the Godavery, 80 

Durbar of a Native Prince in the South of the Deccan, . . 82 

Brahman Prepared for Prayers, 83 



ORISSA AND JUGGERNAUT— CALCUTTA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS— BARRACKPORE—SERAMPORE— 
DARJEELING AND THE HIMALAYAS— THE GREAT GANGETIC PLAIN, . . . pages 87-116 

Illustratio7is, 



Temple of Juggernaut, 

Heading — Bullock-Cart, 

Initial — Himalayan Woman, 

Black Pagoda at Kanarak, Orissa, .... 

Pagoda near Cuttack, 

The Maidan at Calcutta, 

Grand Temple at Bhuvaneswar, 

Banyan in Calcutta Botanic Gardens, .... 

Religious Mendicant, 

Serampore College, 

Martyn's Home, Aldeen, Serampore, .... 

On the way to the Himalayas, 100 

Tailpiece — Colgong Rocks, Ganges, 



PAGE 

. 86 
87 

. 87 
go 

. QI 
92 

. 94 

95 

. 96 

97 



Kinchinjunga, from Darjeeling, 
Traveler's Bungalow, .... 

Himalaya Hill Girl 

Temple and Sacred Tank, Nepal, 
Palace and Temple, Khatmandu, Nepal, 
Dandy Traveling, Himalayas, 
Bridge over the Ranjit River, Darjeeling, 
Railway Traveling, .... 

Grain Sellers, ...... 

Bullock Carriage, 



PAGE 

. 102 
103 

. 1C4 
106 

. 108 
log 
no 



Thugs, 1T4 

Traveling Wagons, 115 



BENARES, THE HOLY CITY— THE MUTINY CITIES: LUCKNOW AND CAWNPORE— THE MOHAM- 
MEDAN CITIES: AGRA AND ALLAHABAD, pages 11 g- 144 

Illitstrations, 



Hindu Temples, Benares, . . . , 

Heading — Mohammedan School, Allahabad, 

A Vishnuvite Fakir, 

Indian Fakir, 

Benares 



PAGE 

. 118 

119 

. 120 



PAGE 

Tope at Sarnath, 124 

Sculpture on Tope at Sarnath 125 

Imambara, Lucknow, 127 

Pavilion of Turka, Kaiser Bagh, Lucknow, . . . 129 

State Elephants, with Howdahs, on Parade, .... 130 



CONTENTS. 



Ruins of the Residency, Lucknow, 131 

Scene near Naina Tal, .... 
Naina Tal Gorge. Almorah Road, . 
Suttee-Chaora Ghat, Ganges, Cavvnpore, 
Memorial Well, Cawnpore, 
Agra Fort, 



132 
133 

134 
135 
136 



The Taj Mahal. Agra 

Balcony in Palace, Agra, 

Pearl Mosque. Agra, 

Gateway at Secundra, 

Ranch Mahal, Futlepore Sikri, 

Bridge over the Ganges. Uude and Rohilki^nd Railway, 



PAGE 

■ 137 

* 139 

140 

. 141 



■Tombs in the Sarai, Allahabad, 



^\\t ?Lyjss. 



ITS CONDITION AND EXTENT— DELHI AND ITS PLAINS— AM RITSAR AND LAHORE— PESHAWAR 
AND KASHMIR— ^IMLA—LANDOUR—DHARMSALA—DALMOUSIE, .... pages 147-166 

litustraiions. 



Temple of Amrit';ar and Lake of Immortality, 
Hi-adiitg — Bas-reliefs in the Museum, Peshawar. 
Iniiinl — Water- Carriers, .... 
Hall of Private Audience. Delhi, 
Jumma Musjid, Delhi, .... 
Cloisters. Mosquc of Kutub, near Delhi, 
Aladin's Gate, with Iron Pillar, 
Kiitub Minar, near Helhi, 
Chandi Chowk, Delhi, .... 
Golden I'emplc of the Sikhs, Amritsar, 



PACE 

1J7 
M7 

150 

154 
155 
156 



Tomb of Rungit Sing. Lahore, 

Sakhi Sarwar. . . . . . 

Street in Peshawar, .... 

Atiock 

lias-reliefs in the Museum. Peshawar, 
Bas-reliefs in the Museum. Peshawar, 
Floating Gardens. Lake of Srinagur, 
Shops. Srinagur, Kashmir. . 

Simla, 

Pindree Glacier, Himalayas, 



PAGE. 

• 157 
158 

■ 159 
iCo 

. ifi 
162 

. l6:( 
164 

. 165 
166 



€),- 



f\.^j^ii¥sxs SK!) dE{>['i'5{si< ix'i^i^ Sa^i^xc^Y, 



MOUNT ABU— UDAIPUR AND CHITTORE—ADJMERE— JAIPUR— ALWAR—GWALIOR— SONAGHUR— 
SANCHI— BHOPAL pages 169-176 

lilitsiratioits. 



Tope of Sanchi, Northern Gate 

Ncadinff — Palace of BirsJng Deo, and Lake Datiia, , 
Tomb at Alwdr, Rajputana, 



PAGE 

. 168 

169 

■ 171 



Sculptured Cave in Gwalior, 
Sacred Hill, Son.ighur. . 
The Moharrcm in Bhopal, 



PAGE 

• J73 

'75 

. 176 



SomSSY IS^llEj^lDl^KCY. 



JABALPUR. AJANTA. AND ELURA— BOMBAY— CAVES OF ELEPHANTA, KENNERY, KARLI— MAT- 
AERAN— POONA— MAIIABLESHWAR— SURAT— BARODA— KUTCH— SINDE, . . . pages 179-197 

Illitstraiioiis. 



PAGR 

The Gaikwar's Elephant in the Great Sowari at Baroda, . 178 

Heading— ^\iOX^ Ghat Railway, 179 

Buddha, i3i 

Street in Bombay, 183 

Cotton Weighing, 185 

Entrance to the Cave of Elephantc 187 

Grotto at Kennery, igg 



Bas-reliefs. Gateway of Karli, 189 

Interior of Great Dagoba of Karli, 190 

Mabableshwar, 192 

Jewesses, Bombay, 103 

The Girnar Rock, 195 

On the Indus. , 195 

In the Christian G'ris' School, Agra, 197 




•o^fi^^tfo 







INDIA, a stately and sonorous word ! To the thoughtful scholar it suggests dis- 
tance, vastness, wealth, scenic and historic charms, ancient art, barbaric wealth, as 
well as potential factors of national greatness. Sir Edwin Arnold has not unduly 
exalted the importance of a visit to India in any liberal education. No thinker can 
be an intellectual exile here. The student of language, history, ancient philosophy, 
or antique civilization finds a treasure house in the India of the past. She has been 
the nurse of useful arts, of subtle thought, and of epic verse. Fantastic mytholo- 
gies, curious speculations, and occult sciences have here had their home. India has 
been the arena of chivalric deeds and of appalling tragedy, the battle ground of truth 
and error, the field of some of the most inspiring conquests of Christianity. But the 
India of the future is to be a nobler study still. We even now see a gradual unifica- 
tion of its many principalities and powers on a grander scale than that of Italy or 
Germany, with the gradual growth and supremacy of the English tongue and the 
surer domination of Western science and Christian thought. 

We furthermore see the development of her industrial arts, and so the opening 
of hitherto unutilized natural products of this vast empire. We see rural communi- 
ties changing into the grander features of civic life, swayed, as we believe they will 
be, by wiser legislation and purer morality than past centuries have seen. 

We see, even now, the multiplication of schools, colleges, churches, and other 
features of Christian civilization, molded by Occidental ideas, yet adapted to Oriental 
conditions. In journeying forty-five hundred miles from place to place in India, the 
past year, the writer has been impressed by the intellectual ferment found, by the 
advances in science and by the urgency and promise of the m.issionary enterprise. 
That 8000 entries are yearly made in the official catalogue of vernacular and Eng- 
lish works written mainly by Hindus, and on religion more than on any theme, is 
a notable evidence of that ferment. A pile of missionary reports examined, and per- 
sonal inspection of work doing in schools and churches, satisfy me that Buddhist 
theosophy will never " tear Christianity in tatters." Whatever may be said of Brit- 
ish rule in other days, — and its severest critics have been Englishmen, — I have a 
hopeful outlook for the future. Her thinkers are here and her men of science, in 
every department. A member of the Royal Asiatic Society at Calcutta, a numis- 
matologist, told me of 5000 rare coins sent him yearly for examination. Wider and 
quicker weather reports — aided by a quadruplex telegraph system, by hard copper 
wire, and other improvements — -are perfecting meteorological science. A vast and 



IN TROD UCTOR V. 

growing railway system, — surpassed by none, perhaps, outside America, — museums, 
libraries, Industrial schools like the Technological Institute at Bombay, and other 
educational enterprises, inspire confidence In India's future. 

These pages, therefore, possess a special attractiveness at the present time. . . . 
Rev. Mr. Urwick some years since made a wide tour, beginning with Galle, formerly 
the starting point, and proceeding, as his itinerary indicates, northward and westward. 
His pages are full of Instruction. He avails himself of the helpful materials of Fer- 
gusson, Hunter, and other authors. The whole Is profusely illustrated by pen and 
pencil. Foot notes have been added. The volume is offered to the thousands of 
American readers, young and old, to whom the past and the future of this land of 
romance presents a vivid and an imperishable charm. 

Edward Payson Thwing. 

Brooklyn, N. Y., January, 1891. 




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COTTAGES NEAR GALLE. 



CEYLON. 



POSITION AND ASPECT OF THE ISLAND — GALLE AND COLOMBO NEWERA ELLIA AND 

PEDRO-TALLA-GALLA ADAM's PEAK AND KANDY THE BO TREE THE RUINED 

CITIES ANURAJAPURA AND POLLONARUA CHRISTIANITY IN THE ISLAND. 

CEYLON in shape and position liangs like a pear from tlie southeast coast of the 
Indian Peninsula. The isthmus called Adam's Bridge forms, as it were, the 
stalk connecting the island with the continent ; the name Adam's Bridge arising from 
the Mohammedan legend that on his expulsion from Paradise, Adam passed by this 
singular causeway into Ceylon. The northern portion, answering to the thin part 
of the pear, is one vast forest, — interminable jungle, — dotted sparsely with specks 
of yellow green cultivation, but containing the ruins of the two ancient capitals, 
and, on the east coast, the port of Trincomalee. The lower half of the island swells 
out in the Kandyan provinces into a mass of gneiss and granite mountains, with a 
margin of rich and luxuriant lower land ; and here we find the best scenery and the 
chief centers of modern enterprise. Almost in the middle of the island is the capi- 
tal, Kandy, connected by railway with Colombo on the west coast ; and at the south- 
west corner is the former port of call. Point de Galle. 

To the sea-trained eye of the voyager across the hot Indian Ocean from the east 
or west, Ceylon unfolds a scene of loveliness and grandeur unsurpassed by any land. 
It enjoys two monsoons in the year, and the abundant supply of moisture thus 
afforded clothes it with perpetual green. Its slopes are enameled with verdure, 
flowers of gorgeous hues deck its plains, palms of all descriptions abound, climbing 
plants rooted in the rocks hang down in huge festoons, and trees dip their foliage 

13 



CEYLON. 



ihto the sea. By the Brahmans the island 
was called Lanka, "the resplendent"; by 
the Buddhists, "a pearl upon the brow of 
India"; by the Chinese, "the island of 
jewels"; by the Greeks, "the land of the 
hyacinth and the ruby." It has with reason 
been regarded as the country whither the 
ships of Solomon came for " gold and sil- 
ver, ivory and apes, and peacocks" (i 
Kings X. II, 22), and tlie " almug trees, 
and precious stones in abundance from 
Ophir," are the most obvious productions 
of Ceylon. The very terms by which these 
things are designated in the Hebrew Bible 
are identical, Sir J. E. Tenant tells us, with 
the Tamil names by which some of them are 
still called. Fable contributes to the charm 
attaching to Ceylon. The tale of Sinbad 
in the Arabian NigJits runs that in the In- 
dian Ocean, near a mountainous island of 
loadstone, the ships fell asunder, and nails, 
and everything of iron flew to the load- 
stone ; and hence native boats are put to- 
gether without the use of iron nails. Bishop 

Heber's "spicy breezes" of poetry, are 

hardly in keeping with fact, because the 

cinnamon gives forth its odor only when 

crushed. Yet they bear witness to a fasci- 
nating charm belonging to the island, and 

Milton has immortalized them in his great 

epic where he says of Arabia : 



To those who sail 
Beyond the Cape of Hope, and now are past 
Mozambic, off at sea northeast winds blow 
Sabean odors from the spicy shore 
Of Araby the blest. 




-£ s. 



SINGALESE MEN OF THE COAST. 



Ceylon is a little smaller than Ire- . 
land, and its population now, 1891, three 
millions. They are mainly of two races, " 
the Tamils, of black complexion and ^ 
slight-limbed, active and wiry, a mixed 
Dravidian race from South India, and the 
Singalese. The Singalese, again, are two 
types, the Kandyan type of highlanders, 
of robust frame, hairy chest, open coun- 
tenance, yellow brown tint, and the coast 

14 




SINGALESE WOMEN OF THE COAST. 



CEYLON. 



Singalese, effeminate-looking, with little beard and long hair rolled into a lump at 
the back of the head and fastened by a tortoise-shell comb. The Tamils of the 
north are in religion Brahmans, the Singalese of the south are Buddhists. Buddhism 
was brought hither from India fully two centuries b. c. Its sacred books in Pali, 
written on Olas, i. c. Palmyra palm leaves, are called the Pitakas, the three baskets, 
treasuries, or collections, viz.: i. Rules of the Order ; 2. Doctrine; 3. Supplemen- 
tary matter. Its temples are called Dagabas. A dagoba — from dliatu, a relic, and 
gabbhaii, a shrine — is properly a monument raised to preserve one of the relics of 
Gautama Buddha. Fragments of his bones, locks of his hair, are inclosed in masses 
of masonry ; a dome of brickwork resting on a square elevated platform covers the 
shrine, and is surmounted by a tee or pin- 
nacle. The oldest of these shrines is that 
raised by King Tissa, b. c. 200, over the 
collar-bone of Buddha. The Dagoba of 
Anurajapura, built b. c. 89, was four hun- 
dred feet high — forty feet higher than St. 
Paul's. Besides Buddhism in the south, 
and Brahmanism chiefly in the north, there 
is INIohammedanism among the Moormen, 
who are in the main of Persian origin. 
Romanism, planted by the Portuguese, 
took its comple.xion from Buddhism, and in 
its rites conformed to the heathen cus- 
toms of the people ; indeed, the churches 
at Jaffna, in the north, were fitted up as 
theaters. The Parawas, or fishermen class, 
were the first to embrace Christianity. 

The Dipawansa, " island history," and 
the Mahawansa, " great history," contain 
the Chronicles of Ceylon. They tell us 
that for four hundred years, from the 
seventh to the eleventh century, the incur- 
sions and exploits of the Malabars harassed 
the island. What tended to civilize — as 
the huge reservoirs called " consecrated 
lakes" to water the paddy or rice lands still bear witness — was introduced by the 
northern rulers ; and all that contributed to debase is traceable to the Malabars. 
The reign of Prakrama Bahu, a. d. 1150, stands out prominently as a time of pros- 
perity and advance. Religion and agriculture went hand in hand, and huge tanks 
were constructed, called " seas of Prakram" ; security of life and property was estab- 
lished, so that a girl decked with gold might traverse the island in safety. But it 
came to pass that in the year 1505 ships from Portugal arrived at Jaffna and 
Colombo. The Portuguese by degrees gained a footing along the coast, and they 
held territory there for a hundred and forty years. In 1602 the Dutch began to 
come, and by degrees overthrew and supplanted the Portuguese, occupying Galle in 
1640. Theirs was a military tenure, and lasted also one hundred and forty years. 
In 1796 their settlements were in turn ceded to the British, who have borne rule 
ever since, and in 18 15 won by conquest the Kandyan provinces. 

17 




MOORMEN HAWKERS. 



CEYLON. 

Nearing Galle, but still some miles from land, we met several of the curiously 
constructed "double canoes " which the Singalese fishermen use. They are from 
twenty to thirty feet long, only twenty inches wide, three feet in depth, including the 
washboard, which is sewn to the gunwale, and are hollowed out of a single stem. 
The most striking feature about them is the balance-log, a solid, buoyant outrigger, 
the same length as the boat, and like a second canoe, fixed by two long curved 
bamboo poles projecting eighteen feet from one side and carrying a high sail hoisted 
on two poles. This outrigger is always kept to windward when sailing, the canoes 
having prows at both ends, and being steered with short fiat paddles. In these boats 
the fishermen can sail ten knots an hour, and they venture out twenty miles to sea. 

Conveyed from the steamer across the harbor within the old Dutch ramparts, 
the traveler soon finds himself in Galle, besieged' by hawkers (chiefly Moormen) of 
precious stones, tortoise-shell, ebony, stuffs, and fancy work in wood and gold ; but 
ridding himself of these he will gladly enjoy a stroll along the ramparts and by the 
liehthouse, and a drive to the Cinnamon Gardens and Wakwella. The cinnamon 
laurel grows to the height of six or eight feet, and is not barked before the ninth 
year. Peeling the bark begins in May and lasts till November. The beautiful 
shrubs are now growing wild, the cinnamon trade having long ago passed to other 
lands through the monopoly of the Dutch. 

At the foot of one of Galle's wooded hills is a Buddhist temple, apparently 
modern and decorated in a very gaudy fashion. The paintings represent scenes in 
the history of kings and others. Within is a gigantic figure of Buddha, with images 
of Siva and Vishnu on either side. The Buddhist priests wear bright yellow gar- 
ments hung on their dark, lanky forms. The usual worship consists mainly in the 
offering- of flowers and fruits. 

The railway from Galle to Colombo not being yet complete, we drove in her 
Majesty's mail — a wretched conveyance, shockingly horsed — along the lovely road of 
seventy miles which skirts the shore. It is an avenue of stately palms with a rich 
undergrowth of tropical trees and gorgeous orchids. Away on the right are the 
mountains, away to the left glitters the blue sea; the beach is fringed with verdure, 
and at the headlands the ripples kiss the overhanging leaves. The tides about 
Ceylon are very slight, the water falling only thirty inches. The white cottages of 
the natives, each with its garden of cocoa-nuts, nestle in the groves, and the fisher- 
men's canoes skim along the sea. The natives whom we pass look clean and pictur- 
esque, but their mouths are invariably discolored with betel chewing. The leaves 
of the betel vine, together with lime and the sliced nuts of the areca palm, form a 
tonic, which from time immemorial it has been the national habit to chew, and the 
mixture imparts a blood-like color to the mouth. The betel is an intoxicating kind 
of pepper, and with the Singalese answers to the opium of the Chinese, and to the 
tobacco of other nations, but it is not considered so injurious. 

The cocoa-nut trees about the dwellings of the natives along this road are 
countless ; and they have a saying that the cocoa-nut, like the magpie and robin, 
will only flourish within the sound of the human voice. Like the Palmyra palm in 
the north of Ceylon, the cocoa-uut in the south yields most of the necessaries of life. 
Its fruit furnishes food, its shell drinking vessels, its juice palm wine and sugar, its 
stem materials for building, its leaves roofs, matting, baskets, and paper. The 
number of these trees in the island is estimated to be twenty millions. Tile natives 



CEYLON. 



climb them with great agihty, partly with the help of bamboo ladders, and 
oftener with the help of a short band of cocoa-nut fiber between the feet or round 
the loins. 




COCOA-NUT TREES AND CLIMBERS. 



The city of Colombo, whose population now numbers one hundred and twenty 
thousand, presents but few features of interest to the tourist.' It extends about four 

' Now that Colombo is the calling port for Oriental steamers, its harbor and streets present an attractive appearance. A 
great number of Europeans are here, for a longer or shorter time, enjoying its perpetual summer. The artificial harbor and the 
elaborate water works, — costing five million dollars, — the delightful drives about Colombo, the Lunatic Asylum, Leper Hospital, the 
Medical School, Wesley College. Wellewatta Industrial Home, and numerous mission stations will furnish ample materials of 
interest to the stranger. The ten days spent here by the writer were the most restful passed in India. — Ed. 

19 



CEYLON. 



miles along the coast and two miles inland, and is divided, like most Indian cities, 
into the black, or native town, and the European quarter. The buildings in the 
latter are chiefly of Dutch origin — as the fort, the belfry and clock tower, the bar- 
racks, and the Wolfendahl Church. The old name Kalambu was altered by the 
Portuguese to Colombo in honor of Columbus. Here one sees the Singalese chiefly 
as servants, the Parsees as merchants, the Tamils as laborers, the Moors as retail 
dealers. The heat at mid-day is most oppressive, but the drive along the Galle 
Face by the sea at sunset is cool and refreshing. A favorite resort, seven miles 
south by railway, is Mount Lavinia, on the sea, once a governor's house, now a 

hotel, nearwhich is a magnificent banyan 
tree. In Colombo there are two cathe- 
drals, one Roman Catholic, the other Eng- 
lish ; and in the street of the dealers in 
rice is a grotesquely ornamented Hindu 
temple. In Colombo the raw coffee 
brought from the plantations undergoes 
the process of curing at several mills for 
the purpose. Here may be seen the dry- 
ing of the beans ; the removal of the 
skin by passing the beans under rollers ; 
the picking out of the bad berries, done 
by women and children ; the distribution 
of the different sizes by means of sieves ; 
the process of packing in huge barrels 
for exportation. The Tamil women em- 
ployed in these establishments present 
!'# _ a neat, healthy, and happy appearance. 
" We found the new Museum in the midst 
of the Cinnamon Gardens well worth a 
visit. Besides the natural and manu- 
factured products of the island, there 
are archaeological remains from ruined 
cities, and in particular a magnificent stone lion. The drive round the lake is lovely, 
and several miles in extent, but the moist heat was like a perpetual Turkish bath. 

The distance from Colombo inland to Kandy is seventy-five miles, and the rail- 
way winds its way among the mountains, through scenery combining Alpine gran- 
deur with tropical luxuriance. A huge, isolated hill, called the Bible Rock from its 
resemblance to a Bible open upon a cushion, stands out conspicuously in the distance 
on the right. The line winds and curves round beetling cliffs and overhanging 
precipices draped with luxuriant creepers. Coolies, i. e., laborers, chiefly Tamils, are 
conveyed in gangs of not fewer than six at reduced rates, upon the certificate from 
their importer or estate manager. Children zmder fotir feet in heiglit are charged half 
fare. The journey occupies four hours and a half. A branch line leads to Gampola, 
which is the station for Newera Ellia. Gampola, the last of the native capitals, was 
fifty years ago the cradle, and is still the gateway, of the great coffee plantations. 
Though the plant had before been brought to Ceylon, the Portuguese and Dutch 
did little or nothing for its cultivation. It was not until 1825, that by the removal 




BUDDHIST PRIEST WITH NOVICES. 



CEYLOX. 

of the heavy duty the plant rose to importance among the products of the island. 
Now, all round Gampola, for miles, the hills are covered with coffee plantations. 
The leaves are bright and smooth, like the laurel, but darker ; the flowers are white, 
and of sweet odor ; the berries are crimson, like cherries. It is calculated that two 
hundred thousand natives are employed on the plantations, which cover over one 
hundred thousand acres.' 

A coach runs daily from Gampola, winding up the mountains through Pussilawa, 
"valley of flower," to Ramboddie in four hours, and the views are majestic and 
charming. In the magnificent glen of Ramboddie we reach a barrier of mountains 
seemingly impassable. Waterfalls on every hand come tumbling over precipices, and 




THE PEDRO-TALLA-GALLA RANGE. 



roaring through deep ravines mantled with palms and orchids, yellow gamboge trees, 
and white-flowered daturas. From this point the road climbs the mountain gorge in 
terraces — cut in many places out of the rock — through a wild forest to the height of 
six thousand feet ; and from the summit of the pass a view of Newera Ellia is 
obtained. At this height, the coffee plantations give place to those of tea, lately 
introduced, and found to grow well at this altitude. Several acres of forest have 
been cleared for tea plantations. From this point you rapidly descend into the 
far-famed valley of Newera Ellia; and taking up your quarters at one of the homely 
and comfortable lodging-houses, after the heat of Colombo and the railway, you now 
feel cold enough to be glad of a fire. 

' Since the blight on coffee, here and elsewhere, attention i? given to the raising of Ceylon tea. While I was there a dealer 
remarked that thirty-five million pounds of tea had been exported during the previous year. The jobbing price was twenty-four 
cents, higher than that of Chinese exporters. The quality is the best in the world, and Chinamen are coming to Ceylon to learn, 
as this is the only machine-made tea in the market. There are two hundred thousand acres under cultivation, and three hundred 
thousand persons employed at an average of thirteen cents a day, of which amount they save one-half. Ceylon tea sells in New 
York for one dollar a pound. — Ed. 

21 



CEYLON. 

Newera Ellia, the Buxton of Ceylon, its great sanatorium, whither the jaded 
European, overdone with the heat of Galle or Colombo, resorts for refreshment and 
rest, is a widespreading valley, green and grassy, watered by crystal streams, high up 
among the mountains at the foot of Pedro-talla-galla, the highest mountain in Ceylon. 
Here one seems to get into England again ; English-looking cottages, with gardens 
full of English flowers, fruit trees, and vegetables ; oaks and firs, green fields and 




WATERFALL OF BYDULLA OYA. 

hedges, robins and blackbirds, bracing 
breezes and crisp, frosty nights. The 
temperature ranges from 36" to 81'', 
and its average at noon is only 62° in 
the shade. The roads are good, the 
walks varied, and the mountains on 
every side invite to a sturdy climb. 

A well-kept bridle-path, cut through the forest in zigzags, leads to the summit of 
Pedro-talla-galla, which is eight thousand three hundred and forty feet above the sea, 
or nine hundred and forty higher than Adam's Peak. Here one soon gets into the 
lonely jungle, where in the early morning nature teems with life and motion, and the 
air is melodious with the voice of birds. We started at 6 a. m. and reached the top 
of the mountain in two hours and a half. At the height of about seven thousand 
five hundred feet we came upon a large antlered elk quietly grazing ; he gave a deep 
bark, and scampered off. The Ceylon elk is a large animal, four feet high, of a 
dark brown color, rough mane, heavy antlers, and body five feet long. Almost to 
the summit there is brushwood, and the rhododendrons were in full bloom. The 




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CEYLON. 

morning was beautifully fine, and the prospect was most extensive and delightful. 
The sea was visible in the distance toward the west and south, Adam's Peak to the 
west, the hills of Kandy to the north, and those of Badulla to the east. From 
Newera Ellia to Badulla the road descends three thousand feet in forty miles, and 
commands splendid views. No scene in nature can be more peaceful and lovely 
than the valley of the Badulla Oya. At Ella the river forces its way through a wild 
ravine in a series of falls. There are no lakes, properly speaking, in Ceylon, but 
from these mountain ranges one sees what look like lakes, the immense tanks, relics 
of a former civilization, formed by means of artificial dams drawn across valleys 




KANDY. 



shut in by hills, and making sheets of water six, eight, or ten miles long, by two or 
three wide. The embankments are from sixty to seventy feet high, and two 
hundred feet broad at the base ; they consist of earthwork, faced in some cases with 
stone. The design of these immense reservoirs was to supply water for the paddy 
lands in the districts lying north of the mountains. Every village northward was 
provided with a tank, and canals conveyed the water to the fields. They date from 
the seventh century downward. 

Descending from Pedro-talla-galla, I came upon the track of a wild elephant. 
The jungle was freshly trodden down, soil disturbed, and trees uprooted. It is an 
Eastern saying that the last word can never be said about an elephant. When the 
British first came elephants were numerous, but now they are rare. Very few Ceylon 
elephants have tusks. They are smaller than the African ; twice the circumference 
of the foot gives the animal's height, which is usually eight or nine feet. They are 



CEYLON. 

said to live seventy years, and it is a trite saying, "A dead elephant is never seen." 
The elephant has marvelous facility in ascending and descending mountains, the 
joints of the hind legs bending inward, and enabling them to kneel like a man, and 
in this posture to slide down, the forelegs being kept straight out. At the approach 
of the white man they retire ; they possess defective sight but powerful scent. A 
story is told of a wild elephant at Goa which had got loose in the market-place, and 
was destroying all before it ; but recognizing in the crowd the child of a woman 




TEMPLE OF THE DALADA. 



who had been in the habit of feeding him when passing her shop, he took it 
up in his trunk and carried it safely home. Elephants have been exported from 
Ceylon to India ever since the First Punic War. Of late their numbers have been 
considerably reduced. They cannot lift the head above the level of the shoulder, 
and they show timidity and shyness at the sight of man. They like the mountains 
and the shady thickets. They go in herds, and a solitary elephant is usually a thief. 

The famous Adam's Peak may be ascended either from Newera Ellia or the 
Maskeliya side, where the climb is comparatively easy, or from Ratnapura, on the 
south side, which is reached by coach from Colombo. The rocky cone which forms 
its summit is climbed with the help of chains fastened in the rock. A fearful ladder, 
forty feet high, lands us on the top, where is a small temple, and beneath a sheltered 
space beside is the Sri pada, or footprint, a natural indentation in the rock, artificially 

26 



CEYLON. 

made to assume the shape of a man's left foot, five feet long by two and a half broad. 
The Brahmans call it the footstep of Siva, the Buddhists that of Buddha, the Chi- 
nese that of Fo, i.e., Buddha, and afterward the Mohammedans called it the foot- 
print of Adam. Adam, it was fabled, when driven from Paradise took refuge in 
Ceylon, and spent years of exile on this mountain before his reunion with Eve on 
Mount Arafath near Mecca. Hence the name Adam's Peak. Between Adam's 
Peak and the sea, quantities of precious stones have been found ; indeed, this is the 




liUDUlll.^l ILMILL, LAK.L ul KANDY. 

region where still they are sought — sapphires, amethysts, topazes, rubies. Ratna- 
pura means "the city of rubies," and the sands of the rivers still abound with small 
particles of tiny gems. Lapidaries use it to polish softer stones. The cat's eye, a 
green translucent quartz, is specially appreciated by the Singalese. The preca- 
rious occupation of gem-hunting is chiefly carried on at Saffragam. The chief pol- 
ishers and sellers of gems are Moormen. 

The tourist in these mountain districts is almost sure to find something he does 
not want, in the form of leeches, whose presence is first discovered by the chill_ feel- 
ing of the creature hanging heavily on the skin when 
full and distended. They are about an inch in length, 
and only one-eighth of an inch in thickness, but 
they swell into more than twice that length and size. 
They make their way through the finest stocking. 
They live not in pools, but in rank and damp herb- 
age. In moving, they plant one extremity on the buddha's tooth. 
ground and advance by semicircular strides. You may often see them hang- 
ing like tassels round the ankles of the palanquin bearers, and dogs and horses 
are tormented by them. Crocodiles too, are occasionally seen across one's 
path in dry weather when the tanks are low, making their way in search of 
water. They are very tenacious of life, indeed it is almost impossible to kill 
them. 

Kandy, the ancient capital of the Highland Singalese, is a beautifully situated lit- 
tle city, of about ten thousand inhabitants, in a nest of hills, itself fifteen hundred feet 

27 




CEYLON. 

above the sea ; and the thickly wooded hills around it are fully two thousand feet 
high. At the foot of its main street, which slopes down a hill, is a long artificial lake, 
made in 1807 by the then King of Kandy ; and this sheet of water adds much to the 
loveliness of the scene. Here, for centuries, the Kandyan kings lived secure, as if 
in their mountain fastnesses ; but upon the conquest of the place by the British in 
18 1 5, a road was constructed through the mountains to the coast, which even still 
presents wonders of engineering skill ; and now a railway sends two trains daily to 
and from Colombo in a four hours' journey. The climate is delightful and the 
scenery charming. From the fourteenth century downward, the place has been dis- 




SACRED BP TREE, ANURAJAPURA, 2IOO YEARS OLD. 



tinguished as the headquarters of Buddhism, finding its center in the Temple of the 
Dalada, the shrine of Buddha's tooth, round which the Buddhist hierarchy gather. 
This, with the adjoining palace, is the most interesting building in Ceylon. There is 
an octagonal stone edifice of two stories, in the upper part of which is an Oriental 
library, containing several valuable Pali manuscripts, and the Buddhist scriptures 
written on wood and sumptuously bound. A balcony runs outside, on which the 
kings of Kandy were wont in former times to appear before the people, and to wit- 
ness performances on the green below. 

The relic of the left eye-tooth of Gautama Buddha, here said to be enshrined, 
has a curious history. Rescued from his funeral pile, b. c. 543, it was preserved for 
eight centuries at Dantapura in South India, and brought to Ceylon a. d. 310. The 
Malabars afterward captured it, and took it back to India, but the great Prakrama 
recovered it. The Portuguese missionaries got possession of it in the sixteenth cen- 
tury, carried it away to Goa, and after refusing a large ransom offered for it by the 
Singalese, reduced it to powder and destroyed it at Goa in the presence of witnesses. 



28 



CEYLON. 

The account of this destruction of the tooth is most circumstantial in the Portuguese 
records. Nevertheless, the Buddhist priests at Kandy produced another tooth, 
which they affirmed to be the real relic, that taken by the Portuguese being a counter- 
feit, and they conducted this to the shrine with great pomp and ceremonial. This 
is the relic now treasured with such care and reverence. It is probably not a human 
tooth at all, being, as those who have seen it affirm, much too large (two inches 
long) ever to have belonged to man. When the British got possession of it in 
1815, there was great excitement, the relic being regarded as a sort of national 
palladium. They allowed it, however, to be restored to its shrine amid great festivi- 
ties. The sanctuary in which it reposes is a small chamber, without a ray of light, 
in which the air is stifling, hot and heavy with the perfume of flowers, situated in the 




GATEWAY LEADING TO THE SACRED TREE, ANURAJAPURA. 



inmost recesses of the temple. The frames of the doors of this chamber are inlaid 
with carved ivory, and on a massive silver table stands the bell-shaped shrine, jeweled 
and hung round with chains, and consisting of six cases of silver gilt, inlaid with 
rubies. On removing the innermost one, about one foot in height, a golden lotus is 
disclosed, on which reposes the sacred relic. In front of the silver altar is a table 
upon which worshipers deposit their gifts. 

The hills round Kandy command charming views of the city and the outlying 
district. Gregory's Drive is a new road that winds up the hill above the miniature 
lake, with bungalows looking out on lovely scenery ; and a path through the opposite 
woods, called Lady Horton's Walk, leads up to a point commanding a panoramic 
view of the Vale of Dumbera and the Knuckles range of hills, the river Mahawelli- 
ganga flowing rapidly below. The Peridenia Botanical Garden, covering one hundred 
and fifty acres, is about three miles from the town, and is rich in all varieties of palms 
and other tropical plants. A fine avenue of India rubber trees leads to a noble group 
of palms — the palmyra, thetalipat, the areca, the date palm, the cocoa-nut, and a huge 
Kew Palm House in the open air, with a river overhung with bamboos flowing 
through. The sacred Bo tree of the Singalese, to which they, as Buddhists, attach 

29 



CEYLON. 

symbolically the same importance as Christians do to the cross, is found close to 
every dagoba. Buddha himself is said to have made frequent allusions to the growth 
of this tree as an emblem of the rapid propagation of his faith. It differs from the 




CARVED STONE AT ANURAJAPURA. 



banyan by sending down no roots from its branches, but its heart-shaped leaves are 
attached to the stem by so slender a stalk that they appear to be ever in motion, and 
thus, like the leaves of the aspen, of which the cross was thought to be made, whose 




CARVED STONE AT ANURAJAPURA. 



leaves are said to tremble in recollection of the crucifixion, those of the Bo tree are 
supposed by the Buddhists to tremble in remembrance of the sacred scene of which 
they were the witnesses. It was while reclining under the shade of this tree at Budh 
30 * 



CEYLON. 

Gaya in Magadha or Bihar that Gautama received Buddhahood. The first Bo tree 
in Ceylon is said to have been sent by Asoka, king of Magadha, a branch from the 
parent-tree at Uruwela, b. c. 245, and to have been planted at the old capital Anura- 
japura. It is still pointed out as the oldest tree in the world, and is said to be the 
parent-tree from which all other Bo trees in the island have been propagated. A wall 
is now built round it, and a flight of stone steps leads to the sacred inclosure. Pil- 
grims come to visit it from China, and even from Japan. The solitary column on the 




JETAWAN-ARA.MA DAGOCA. 



right marks the place where Elala, a Malabar invader, who reigned with justice and 
moderation, fell (b. c. 160). It was erected by his rival in admiration of his bravery, 
and it is still regarded with veneration. Among the neighboring ruins is a beautifully 
carved stone of great antiquity, now forming a doorstep, and representing the lotus 
flower in the center, a procession of wild animals on the outside, and in the inter- 
mediate circle the hanza, or sacred goose, an object of veneration formerly in all 
parts of India. 

Pollonarua and Anurajapura, the two ancient and long ruined capitals of 
Ceylon, lie to the northeast and north of Kandy. The tourist starts by the road to 
Trincomalee as far as Matale, sixteen miles. Three miles off is a cave temple, called 
the Alti, Wihare, curiously built, amid loose and tumbled masses of rock. The place is 
specially interesting as the spot where, as the Mahawanso says, the books of Buddhism 

31 



CEYLON. 

were first compiled, and its precepts reduced to writing. The statement runs : "The 
wise monks of former days handed down the text of the Three Pitakas by word of 
mouth. But seeing the destruction of men, the monks of this time assembled, 
and, that the Faith might last, wrote them in books." Leaving Matale, we make our 
way through Nalande, fourteen miles, to Dambulla,' fifteen miles, where is one of 
the oldest rock temples in Ceylon. The rock is five hundred feet high, and is 
visible from afar. The temple is reached by hewn steps, and upon climbing these, 
we behold a noble gateway adorned with carvings. The building was known as "the 
cave of the golden rock," darkness being the characteristic of the interior of all Bud- 
dhist temples. Indeed, the word Wihara or Vihara, now denoting any Buddhist temple 
or monastery, literally signifies "a residence." In the forest stretching south of Dam- 



fs^- 




GAL-WIHARA, PULASTIPURA ; IMAGE OF BUDDHA RECUMBENT. 



bulla there stands a colossal statue of Buddha carved in a mass of rock. It is upward 
of fifty feet high, and reminds one of the Daibutz of Japan. It would appear that in 
early times this statue was roofed over. It is called the Aukana Wihara. 

The road leads on through jungle by the great tank of Topare to Pollonarua, 
or Pulastipura, where are the ruins of a city built by the famous King Prakrama Bahu, 
which continued to be the capital of the Kandyan monarchs till the fourteenth century. 
The remains are extensive and display beauty of design and excellence of execution. 
The forest abounds with them, but perhaps the most striking is the Jayata-wanarama, 
a huge Buddhist temple, containing, between two octagonal towers forming the main 
entrance, a statue of Buddha fifty feet high, formed of brick covered with polished 
chunam or cement. The side view gives a good idea of the elaborate carving and 
extensive range of this building. 

Another still more curious building at Pulastipura is the Gal-wihara, a rock 
temple, which has in front four richly-carved columns, a raised altar, with a statue of 
Buddha seated, a statue of Buddha standing, and a statue of the same famous saint 
forty-five feet in length, representing the state of Nirvana. 

32 



CE YLON. 

North of Matale, about sixty miles, is another, and still more ancient ruined city, 
called Anurajapura. According to the narrative of the Mahawanso, this city was 
founded four hundred years b. c. When King Asoka sent his son Mahinda to intro- 
duce Buddhism to Ceylon, the reigning monarch was Tissa (250-230 b. c), who re- 
ceived him with favor and espoused the new religion. He built the famous temple 
called the Thuparama Dagoba, of bell-shaped outline, the most elegant in Ceylon, 
which still rises sixty-three feet from the ground, and stands on a platform fifty 




RUANVELLV DAGOBA, ANURAJAPURA. 



yards square, with three rows of monolith pillars twenty-six feet high, one hundred 
and fifty in all. He erected it as a shrine for the right collar-bone of Buddha. The 
pillars are supposed to represent and answer to the stone rail surrounding the topes 
in India. They were probably connected with each other by beams of wood and 
frames of canvas covered with paintings. Paintings, as distinct from sculptures, are 
characteristic of Ceylon temples. 

A precipitous rocky hill, a thousand feet high, eight miles to the east, connected 
with the city by a long street, was chosen as an appropriate site for another huge 
temple of brick, under which was deposited another relic of Buddha — a hair which 
grew on the mole between his eyebrows. Regarding this hill, the hill of Mihintale, 
a visitor to it thus writes : " It was on this hill, the three peaks of which, each now 
surmounted by a dagoba, form so striking an object from the central trunk road which 

33 



CEYLON. 



runs along its side, that the famous missionarj^ Mahinda spent most of his after years. 
Here, on the precipitous western side of the hill, under a large mass of granite rock, 
at a spot which, completely shut out from the world, affords a magnificent view of 
the plains below, he had his study hollowed out, and steps cut in the rock over which 
alone it could be reached. The great rock effectually protects the cave from the 
heat of the sun, in whose warm light the valley below lies basking ; not a sound 
reaches it from the plain, now a far-reaching forest, then full of busy homesteads ; 
there is only heard that hum of insects which never ceases, and the rustling of the 
leaves of the trees which cling to the sides of the precpice. I shall not easily forget 

the day when I first entered that lonely, 
cool, and quiet chamber, so simple and yet 
so beautiful, where more than two thousand 
years ago the great teacher of Ceylon had 
sat and thought and worked through long 
)'ears of his peaceful and useful life. On 
that hill he afterward died, and his ashes 
still rest under the dagoba, which is the 
principal object of the reverence and care 
of the few monks who still reside in the 
Mahintale Wihare." ' 

The square of the entire city of An- 
urajapura, including tanks, was walled in 
about B. c, 48, by Queen Anula, and each 
side is said to have been sixteen miles 
long. The entire distance from Anuraja- 
pura to Colombo by way of Kandy is one 
hundred and sixty miles. 

Conjectures have been eagerly made 
concerning traces of Christianity in Ceylon 
in the early centuries ; but if in those days 
there were any Christians in Ceylon, they 
must have been sojourners only from among 
the Syrian Christians on the Coromandel 
Coast. " Its light appears," says Sir J. 
E. Tennent, " to have been transiently 
kindled, and to have speedily become extinguished." Cosmas, a. d. 535, speaks of 
Christians here, with a priest and deacon ordained in Persia. These were probably 
Nestorians. The two Mohammedan travelers of the ninth century, whose narratives 
have been translated, are silent as to the existence of any form of Christianity, and 
Marco Polo, a. d. 1290, declares that the inhabitants were idolaters. The Portuguese 
in the sixteenth century brought with them Romanism, and Xavier was invited in 
1 544 to come to Jaffna ; but though many were baptized, he has recorded his disap- 
pointment at the inward unsoundness of all he had outwardly achieved. Many na- 
tives, both in the north and in the south, became Roman Catholics ; but in the 
charges officially brought against the Jesuits, it was alleged to be doubtful whether 
by affecting idolatry, and tolerating it among their proselytes, they had not them- 

' Buddhism, by T. W. Rhys Davids. Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge. 
34 




MUDALIYAR OR HEADMAN. 



CEYLON. 



selves become converts to Hinduism rather than made Hindus converts to Chris- 
tianity. They assumed the character of Brahmans of a superior caste, and even 
composed a pretended Veda. They conducted images of the Virgin in triumphal 
procession, imitated from the orgies of Juggernaut. Among their most distinguished 
preachers has been Joseph Vaz (died at Kandy, 1711), who added to the Church 




COLOSSAL niAGE OF BUDDHA. 



thirty thousand converts from the heathen. The Dutch on their coming established 
the Reformed Church of Holland as the religion of the colony, and the first Presby- 
terian clergyman began his ministrations in 1642. In 1658 they forbade the presence 
of Roman Catholic priests. They pulled down and broke the Romanist images, and 
in Jaffna took possession of the churches. But in spite of all this severity, Romanism 
kept its ground, and the Dutch missionaries did not succeed. Since the British rule 
began, this coercive policy has ceased, and the Gospel has been preached in a Chris- 
tian spirit. In 1816 Ceylon was made an archdeaconry under the see of Calcutta. 



35 



CEYLON. 

It was made a bishopric in 1845. Protestant missions, set on foot by the American 
Board in 1816, have been uninterruptedly efficient. Upward of six hundred stu- 
dents have been under instruction from time to time in the American seminary at 
Batticotta ; and of these more than half have openly professed Christianity, and all 
have been more or less imbued with its spirit. The majority are filling situations of 
credit and responsibility in the island. The Wesleyans' also have been and are still 
extensively at work with churches, colleges, and schools in North and South Ceylon. 
The Baptists have useful missions at Ratnapura, at the foot of Adam's Peak and 
among the pilgrims thither, at Colombo, and at Kandy. Lastly, the Church Mis- 
sionary Society has been successful in several stations, though of late years unfor- 
tunate hindrances have sprung up through Ritualistic tendencies and claims of the 
newly appointed bishop. Out of the taxes levied upon the native population the sum 
of sixty thousand dollars is annually paid by the government in support of this epis- 
copate and other religious establishments in the island. The Kandy Collegiate School 
educates a large number of boys and young men. Nevertheless, Brahmanism has still 
a strong hold upon the Tamils of the north, and Buddhism, with its flower-offering 
and devil worship, is still vigorous among the Singalese. Books, too, in favor of 
Buddhism, with extracts from English writers who extol its early literature, are pub- 
lished and circulated. Evangelical Christianity is, however, gaining ground, and the 
present census will probably show the. number of Protestants to be upward of seventy 
thousand. A scheme of disendowment is proposed, to take effect in five years.^ 

' They report, August, 1890, 70 ministers, 155 lay preachers, 4,644 church members, 20,000 in the congregations, — to which 
sermons in four diiTerent languages are preached, — and 21,435 day and Sunday-school pupils. 

" Entire freedom from state patronage and control is now granted to all religions. The proportion of Christians, including 
Romanists, is ten per cent, higher in Ceylon than in India. Vide, " Ceylon in the Jubilee Year," James Fergusson, Colombo, 1887.. 




36 



COCOA-NUT PALMS AND JUNGLE. 



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CHAPEL OF THE SACRED BULL, CHILLAMBARAM. 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 



TINNEVELLY AND TRAVAXCORE THE DRAVIDIAX TEMPLES MADURA — TRICHINOPOLY- 

TAN'IORE MADRAS — THE COAS 1' VOYAGE NORTHWARD. 



Colo 
dred 



CEYLON is linked on to India not only naturally 
and politicall)', but by a continual transfer of 
population. The Tamils, -vvho are the chief work- 
people on the coffee plantations of Ceylon, come 
from the Madras Presidency, and they do not gen- 
erally settle permanently in the island. There is a 
continual stream of comers and ooers. There are 
six ports on the western coast of Ceylon, to and 
from which vessels run to the Coromandel Coast, as 
the eastern side of Southern India is called. Of 
these six ports the chief are Pesalai and Vankalai 
in the north, and Colombo on the west. In 1874, 
for example, there arrived in Ceylon one hundred 
and twenty-five thousand of these Indian coolies,' 
and the departures numbered ninety thousand. A 
great exodus always follows the gathering of the 
crop ; in the steamer in which we crossed from 
mbo to Tuticorin, one hundred and fifty miles, there were about five hun- 
Tamils, men, women, and children, on board, returning to their native land. 

■ In 1SS7 there were 206,495 employed on Ceylon estates, nearly all Tamil immigrants. — Ed. 

39 




MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

Many of them crowded the deck all night, and, in spite of much roughness from 
the sailors and boatmen, seemed patient and light-hearted. The noise and jab- 
bering as the boats conveying them from shore swarmed round the steamer was 
amusing, and almost deafening. After a calm starlight night we found our vessel 
anchored off the flat, sandy coast of India, about six miles from shore. The steamer 
could not be brought nearer on account of the shallows. Though the sea was calm 
the billows of a heavy swell chased each other over the sand banks with a long lazy 
sweep toward the land. A fleet of heavy native sail-boats came out to take the 




MAKE, MALABAR COAST. 



passengers ashore ; and in a four-oared boat, after passing Hare Island, we reached 
the landing stage of Tuticorin in an hour. Tuticorin was once celebrated for its 
pearl fishery, and is now a town rising in importance as the terminus of the South 
Indian Railway. It is the main port of the District of Tinnevelly, a district which, 
together with the Native State of Travancore, forms the southern part of India. 
Cape Comorin itself is within the boundary of Travancore, but Tinnevelly occupies 
two-thirds of the breadth of the peninsula. These two provinces are separated by 
the range of Western Ghauts, which run north and south along the western coast, 
rising to the height of seven thousand feet, and are the highest mountains to be met 
with till we come to the Himalayas. Tinnevelly has a population of a million and a 
half. Northward, the country is well cultivated, and of a green, fertile aspect, paddy 
lands extending for miles on either side the railway ; but southward there stretches 
40 




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MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

a vast sandy plain of a fiery red color, dotted over by groves of tall, majestic Palmyra 
palms. While all around is parched and arid, this tree strikes its roots forty feet 
below the surface, gathers up the moisture, and daily gives forth quantities of sap 



h i, , i 
fc h ^ 









npgi^"'-i::.7^ • 



-'ri'Jiii 




CHRISTIAN KATIVE GIRLS. 



called "toddy," which is collected in small earthen vessels attached to the tree, and 
is largely manufactured into sugar. The Shanar laborer climbs thirty or forty trees 
seveiity feet high twice every day to collect the sap. The Hindus call the Palmyra 
" the tree of life," and dedicate it to Ganesh. It gives three quarts of " toddy " daily, 
its wood is hard and durable, and its leaves thatch the native houses, are woven into 

43 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

mats and baskets, or, smoothed by pressure, they serve for books and parchments. 
In a word, the Palmyra palm in South India as well as in the northeast of Ceylon 
supplies shelter, furniture, food, drink, oil, and fuel for the people, with forage for 
their cattle and utensils for their farms. 

It is an interesting fact that Tinnevelly and Travancore, more than any other 
part of India, have been brought under the influence of Christianity, and this from 
the earliest times. The Christians of St. Thomas, as they are called, early in the 
third century, it is supposed, occupied portions of the Coromandel Coast on the east, 
and of the Malabar Coast on the west. Indeed, the Syrian Churches here claim to 
have sprung from the preaching of the Apostle Thomas himself \^ however this may 




TAMILS OF SOUTH INDIA. 



be, a Syriac MS. of theBible, brought from this district, now at Cambridge, is said 
to date from the eighth century. And in modern times Christian missions have been 
more successful here than anywhere else in India. Travancore, unlike Tinnevelly, 
is a mountainous country, full of diversified scenery. In its northern part, the 
Malayalam language is spoken. The view from the Peak of Agastya, seven thou- 
sand feet high, which is usually ascended from Trivanderum, is said to be the finest 
in Southern India. As on the east the Palmyra, so on the west of these mountains 
the cocoa-nut palm flourishes. Here there is a group of missions. The population 
of Travancore numbers upward of two millions, of whom one-fifth is Christian. 
The London Missionary Society takes the lead, and the census report witnesses that 
" by the indefatigable labors and self-denying earnestness of the learned body of the 
missionaries' in the country, the large community of Native Christians are rapidly 
advancing in their moral, intellectual, and material condition." Travancore is per- 
haps one of the best governed and most enlightened native states in India. North 
of it, on the west coast, is Cochin, near to which is the old Hebrew colony known as 
"the Black Jews of Malabar." Their religious knowledge is much narrower than 
that of the " White Jews," who have been settled there since the destruction of 

' It is declared by modern scholars that there is no evidence that he ever came to India at all, but that the myth is of the 
same spurious origin as that of Peter's visit at Rome. — Ed. 

44 




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MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

Jerusalem. The Black Jews are supposed to have come thither upon the conquest 
of the Ten Tribes, and perhaps through Afghanistan. 

Taking the train which runs through Maniachi Junction, a branch line brought 




RUINED PERUMAL PAGODA. 



us in three hours to Tinnevelly. The railway terminus here is half way between the 
town of Tinnevelly and the celebrated settlement of Palimcotta. Tambiravarni, 
"the copper-colored river," rising in the Ghauts, waters the plain and gives it a 




GREAT HALL OR AUDIENCE CHAIIEER IN THE PALACE OF TIRUMALA, MADURA. 

most fertile aspect. The country is covered with cotton and rice fields. Tinnevelly, 
the native city, with its Temple of Siva, lies to the west, and Palimcotta, fifty-seven 
miles from Cape Comorin, the English station, to the east. Nothing can be m.ore 

47 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

Strange and pleasant to the eye of a Christian than to see the spire of a Christian 
church, with the surroundings of a missionary compound, rising amid the emblems 
of decaying heathendom in that far-off land. Hearing the church bell on the quiet 
Sunday morning, and seeing the schools and the people wending their way to 
worship, one might almost fancy one's self in some neat English village, were it not 
for the dark faces of the villagers and the strange tower of an old heathen temple 
looming above the trees. The mission here was begun by the Danish missionaries 
in 1 771, and Schwartz himself visited Palimcotta twice. The Christians of the 




TIRUMALA S CHOULTRY, MADURA. 



district now constitute one-fifth of the population, but they are for the most part from 
among the lowest castes. Large numbers of natives are putting themselves under 
Christian instruction, in the hope of protection from oppression. Many more have 
joined the Christians in their gratitude for relief given in time of famine. But, 
whatever the motive, they hear the Gospel message, and are instructed in Christian 
truth ; they become intelligent, progressive, promising. 

Bishop Sargent had at table one day a young native who had passed the Indian 
Civil Service examination — a gigantic achievement for any man, especially for a 
Hindu — and who had thoroughly mastered the English language, and literature also. 
To test his knowledge, each one at table quoted some familiar lines from an English 
poet ; and thereupon the young Tamil not only recited each quotation, but named 
the work it was from, gave the connection, and the author's name. "Your quota- 

43 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 



tion," he began, "was from such a play of Shakespeare, and this is the connection." 
Again, a native missionary was once asked when preaching, " How do you explain 
the differences among you ? Here are Church Missionary and Propagation Society 
missionaries, Baptist missionaries, Presbyterian and London Society missionaries. 




ENTRANCE TO THE PUTHA MANDAPAM, MADURA. 



How are we to tell which is right?" The native preacher replied: " There was 
once a dispute among the fingers of the hand, which should have the pre-eminence. 
The thumb said, ' I ought to have the pre-eminence, for it is plain, you can none of 
you do anything without me.' 'Ah,' said the first finger, 'what is more important 
than pointing out the way? This is my office ; I ought to have the pre-eminence.' 
' I,' said the second finger, 'rest my claim on mathematical principles. When you hold 
the hand upright, which finger is the tallest ? I am ; therefore I ought to have the 

49 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 



pre-eminence.' ' No,' said the third finger, ' for tliough it is something to point out 
the way, and mathematics too are strong, there is one thing stronger, and that is 
love. And when you put the symbol of love upon the hand it is the third finger 
that you choose ; therefore the supremacy is mine.' ' Hear me, too,' said the little 
finger ; ' true, indeed, I am small and you are large, mathematics are strong, and 
love is stronger, but there is one thing higher than all, and that is worship ; and 
when you approach the god, I am the finger that you choose to present nearest in 
your prayer, for you press your hands together, lift them up, and hold them thus. 

Therefore I should have the pre- 



eminence.' Now," continued the 
native pastor, "each finger has some- 
thing to say for itself, each is im- 
portant in its way ; and so with the 
various Christian Societies. But all 
derive their life and strength from 
a common source, and all workinof 
harmoniously, under the guidance 
of a common Will, become mighty 
for the accomplishment of Christ's 
work in the world." These examples 
show how the Hindu may become 
competent both for the Indian Civil 
Service and for missionary work in 
India. 

The whole of that part of 
Southern India that lies between the 
eighth and the sixteenth parallels of 
latitude used to be called the Car- 
natic or Black Countr3% and is peo- 
pled by the Dravidian race ; not the 
aborigines of the country, but, like 
the Aryans of the north, early immi- 
grants who came in successive waves 
from some part of Central Asia, and 
settled chiefly in the southern por- 
tion of the great peninsula. They 
are quite distinct from the Aryans ; their skin is darker, and their language dif- 
ferent. They form one-fifth of the whole population of India. They are active, 
hard-working, docile, and enduring. They are more sober, self-denying and less 
brutish in their habits than Europeans. They show greater respect for animal life, 
they have more natural courtesy of manner, and, as servants, attach themselves to 
those who treat them well with far greater affection than English servants. The 
Dravidian tongue embraces four groups of languages: Tamil, Telugu, Canarese, and 
Malayalam. 

The railway from Tinnevelly runs north, about a hundred miles, through a flat 
productive country, in about seven hours to Madura, the ancient capital of the large 
district which bears that name. Madura was for centuries before the Mohammedan 
50 




ENTRANCE TO THE GREAT HALL, PALACE OF TIRUMALA, 
MADURA. 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 




SACRED TANK AND ISLAND TEMPLE, 
MADURA. 

conquest the metropolis of South 
Indian learning and reUgion ; and 
the ruins of the palace, together ^ ^ 

with the immense Temple of Siva, 
covering twenty acres, are stand- 
ing memorials of its early greatness. Here we come face to face with the master- 
pieces of Dravidian architecture for which the Madras Presidency is famous, and 
which in their number, vastness, and elaborateness almost bewilder the Christian 
tourist. The Dravidians of Southern India offered their labor to their gods. Their 
temples are divided into the following parts : 

I. The Vimana or Adytum, square, and surmounted by a pyramidal roof overlaid 
with gold. Here, in a dark cubical cell, the altar and idol are immured, and a lamp 
is kept burning dimly night and day. 

II. Around the Vimana, and leading up to it usually from the four points of the 
compass, are the Mantapas, huge stone porches richly carved. 

III. The Gopuras, or gate pyramids, the most obvious features from the outside, 
towering two hundred feet high, and elaborately carved with most grotesque figures 
in stone, raised tier upon tier in diminishing stories, of which there are from ten to 
fourteen, terminating in a dome. 

IV. The pillared halls, or Choultries, ten to twenty feet high, with a thousand 
stone pillars elaborately carved from base to capital, and supporting a flat stone roof. 

v. Sacred Tanks, surrounded with corridors, and with flights of steps descending 
into the water. All these, leading to a common center, form the widespreading 
temple of South India called the Pagoda. This has nine towers, one of which we 
ascended by a narrow staircase leading from story to story to the highest. Each small 
chamber has pigeon-holes in its walls, opening north and south ; but the peeps thus 
o-ained, being very limited, hardly repay the fatigue of the climb. This temple dates 
From the third century b. c. ; it was destroyed in a. d. 1324, and restored m the seven- 
teenth century. It is kept in good repair, and many masons were still at work upon 
it. It is dedicated partly to Minakshi, the fish-eyed goddess, and partly to Siva. 

Passincr through the corridors used as bazaars, we came to the dark flat-roofed 
hall of a thousand pillars, some of black granite, all carved more or less elaborately, 

51 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

and representing male and female deities dancing. One of the figures represents the 
devil, and boys are allowed to spit in his face. One pillar is subdivided into twenty- 
four smaller ones. The sacred tank is about fifty yards square, and full of dark 
green water, in which some Brahmans were bathing. The corridors around this 
tank are covered internally with fresco paintings, some astronomical, others of a gross 




ROCK AND TEMPLE, TRICHINOPOLY 

character. There are three different 
statues of the bull sacred to Siva, as 
the shrine is approached. Admission 
to the shrine itself is prohibited, and as 

you look up the aisle within, all is darkness and stillness, save in the distance the 
glimmer of the lamp before the idol. The favorite idols are plastered with oil and 
red ochre ; and there is a general greasiness about the precincts by no means fra- 
grant or cleanly. Outside the great pagoda, in the street, stands the car in which 
the idol is taken round the city in pomp on festive occasions. Grandeur and 
abomination, massiveness and uncleanness, are in this temple strangely combined. 

Another celebrated building in Madura, now in great part ruined, is the Palace 
of Tirumala, one of the greatest of the rulers of the province, built by him in 1623. 
The hall is a quadrangle, two hundred and fifty by one hundred and fifty feet, and 

52 




X 

o 
g 

2 
w 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

with an elaborate corridor, and one hundred and twenty-eight massive granite pillars 
ornamented with stucco, made from clumam, or shell lime, which is a characteristic 
of the Madras Presidency. The British Government is now restoring it, and usino- 
it for legislative purposes. 

On the other side of the town there is a lovely drive leading to a large sacred 
tank, the Teppu-kulam, with an island and temple in the center. The road is arched 
over and shaded with banyan trees ; and a very fine specimen of this tree is to be 
seen in the garden of the Collector. The Collector in India is, of course, the Civil 




THE RAJAH-COPURA, SERINGHAM. 

Servant, a prince in his way, who represents government in the District. Under 
the Collector in a Zillah District there are usually four Assistant Collectors, and on 
a level with him one District Judge, with two Assistant Judges, one Superintendent 
of Police, with an assistant, and one Medical Ofificer. The Collector and his Eng- 
lish staff hardly ever know the vernacular. By the natives they are regarded with 
awe, not affection. A Zillah District is in extent somewhat like an English county, 
and usually contains an area of two or three thousand square miles, and a popula- 
tion of one or two millions. " The Collector is separated by an impassable gulf 
from the people of the country," says Sir J. B. Phear ; and he adds, " To the eyes of 
a native, the English official is an incomprehensible being, inaccessible, selfish, over- 
bearing, irresistible." This statement is made with reference to the Bengal Presi- 
dency, and it applies in its full force to that of Madras. The Collector is paid from 

55 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

the taxes ten or fifteen thousand dollars a year, and retires with an annual 
pension of five thousand dollars. 

At Madura the American Board has a very efficient mission, with valuable 
schools. It was founded in 1834; since which time it has covered the entire prov- 
ince with a network of stations. It includes one hundred and thirty-eight congrega- 
tions, a hundred native missionaries, and a hundred native teachers. The institu- 
tion of boarding-schools, peculiar to missions in Southern India, was introduced by 




TUDAS IN THE NILGIRIS. 



the American Board, and there are in the Madura province one hundred and eighteen 
schools and trainincr colleges. 

In India, even in the coolest season, if you want coolness, you must rise early. 
It was New Year's morning, and the bright stars of the Southern Cross were still 
shining, when we drove in the missionary's conveyance to the railway station and 
took the early train one hundred miles northward for Trichinopoly, a city often taken 
and retaken in the wars between the French and English in the last century. The 
sun rose in a clear sky at 6.30, and hills sweeping up from the plain were kindled by 
his beams. The peasants were already at work like dark skeletons upon the land, 

56 




o 



00 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

employed chiefly in lifting water from wells and tanks by means of long bamboo 
levers, and pouring it into trenches cut through the rice fields. Long before we 
arrived the famous rock of Trichinopoly was in view before us, and we reached the 
city in the heat of the day, after a seven hours' journey. 

The main feature of Trichinopoly is its noble rock of syenite, rising abruptly 
five hundred feet above the sea, and towering two hundred and fifty feet over the 
town. Half way up is a temple to Siva, cut in the rock and built against it. We 
climbed stair after stair, and up the last dangerous flight of steps cut in the bare 
precipitous rock, without banister or rail, to the Mandepam or pavilion on the sum- 
mit, a temple to the god Ganesh. Here there presents itself a clear and extensive 
view in every direction over the wide-spreading plain, northward over Seringham, 
east to Tanjore, south and west over the town, where the streets were all alive with 




IhMl'LL 1)1- bi IL IIKA.MA.N \ A, TANJOKE. 

a Mohammedan procession and the beating of drums. Outside the town to the 
southwest lay the military cantonments, where about five thousand troops are kept ; 
and to the west are the chapels, monasteries, and nunneries of the Roman Catholics. 
Almost all the Tamil servants are said to be Romanists. The Lutherans too have 
missions here, called the Leipzig Mission, and the new Lutheran church is a con- 
spicuous object. They recognize the laws of caste among their converts. Immedi- 
ately at the foot of the rock is the chapel in which the well-known missionary, C. F. 
Schwartz, preached. The old pulpit from which he so often proclaimed the message 
of Christ to the natives is still there. His influence with the native population was 
irresistible. In their transactions with the English they would treat only through 
him. He was born in Germany, on the 26th of October, 1726, and died at Tanjore 
on the 14th of February, 1789, " revered," as the tablet in his church there says, 
" by Christian, Mohammedan, and Hindu alike." He left three thousand converts 
to Christianity behind him, in Tanjore alone. The remains of another famous 
Indian missionary, Bishop Heber, lie here in St. John's Church. He died suddenly 
at Trichinopoly, in 1826, when taking a cold bath, in the forty-third year of his age. 

i 59 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

A three miles' drive northward brings you to the famous Dravidian temples of 
Seringham, the largest in all India. Seringham is a river island. The Great 
Pagoda is seven miles in circumference, and includes many bazaars and streets of 
Brahmans' houses, so that it is more like a walled town than a temple. The sight of 
the fourteen magnificent gate towers from the outside is very impressive. Each has 
huge monoliths of granite on either side, the portico about forty feet high ; and 
above the majestic gateways are pyramids of elaborate stone carving towering up to 
the height of two hundred feet. You drive through a succession of these towers, 




PALACE OF THE RAJAHS AT TANJORE. 



and, alighting, you enter on foot a great pillared hall. Its flat stone roof, fifteen feet 
high, is supported by one thousand columns, each a single block of granite, and all 
carved into grotesque figures of men mounted upon rearing horses, and spearing 
tigers, and the like. Beyond is the central shrine, dark and dismal, but surmounted 
by a golden dome. Near to this four sacred elephants are stabled, and a staircase 
leads up to the flat stone roof which covers all these acres. The highest tower was 
ascended by the Prince of Wales during his tour through India in 1875, and he left 
a gift of five hundred rupees to the temple. The contrast between the vastness, 
majesty, and grandeur of the temple precincts, embodying the skill and toil of 
thousands of laborers and lapidaries for years, and the hideous, dirty, greasy little 
idol before the dimly burning lamp in the center, is striking. The most laborious 
60 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

and elaborate architecture in the world has been raised in honor of hideous idols, and 
for the most degraded idolatry. 

A mile distant is another, smaller but older, pagoda, in decay, but a very com- 
pact specimen of Dravidian architecture. As the large temple of Seringham is dedi- 
cated to Vishnu, this is raised to Siva, and its name denotes him as " Lord of the 
rose-apple," or " Lord of India." 

Looking westward from Trichinopoly, one sees the noble range of the Nilgiri 
hills, a group of granite mountains shaped like a triangle, and about forty miles 




COURT IN PALACE OF THE RAJAH, TANJORE. 



in length. Owing to their great elevation of seven thousand feet, they have a 
delightful climate and are much resorted to. A branch line of railway runs from 
Coimbatore, northward to MettapoUium ; and thus this healthy and delightful resort 
is brought within a sixteen hours' journey of Madras itself. Utakamund is the sum- 
mer seat of the Madras Government. The hills, covered with dark soil and grass, 
possess a vegetation of the temperate zone, with a mean temperature of 58^. Here 
live the tribe of Tudas, numbering about two thousand, a handsome race, theists in 
religion, but with no idols. Three miles from Coimbatore is the Pagoda of Perur, 
not of very ancient date, but containing interesting details of architecture, and 
elaborate compound pillars. The subjects of the carving show that degradation 
which is justly described as "the fatal characteristic of art in India." The excursion 
to the Anamalai or elephant hills is healthy and exhilarating. There are now ex- 

61 



MADRAS FRESIDENCY. 

tensive coffee plantations on the slopes of the Nilgiri hills. Here is a small but 
singular tribe of people called Tudas. They are a handsome race, tall and athletic, 
with Roman noses, beautiful teeth, and large, full, expressive eyes. They never 
wear any head covering, but let the hair grow six or seven inches, so that it forms a 
thick bushy mass of curls all round. They are honest, brave, inoffensive, and live as 
herdmen, but are somewhat indolent. Polyandry prevails among them, the brothers 
of a family having often only one wife among them. Their language is peculiar, but 
Dravidian. They have no idols, but they have a temple dedicated to Truth. They 
regard the Brahmans with contempt. They are considered to be the aborigines of 
these hills. They only number a few hundred, and are gradually decreasing. The 
Badaga tribe is more numerous and more accessible to Christian influences. 

Tanjore is two hours' journey by railway from Trichinopoly ; and crowds of 




-— - .^^^ -.>^.l (i;>^- r-*^ , , ,,, 



".mm 



BHISTI, OR WATER-CARRIER. 



natives, with the varying symbols of their caste painted on their foreheads, filled the 
stations and thronged the carriages. There are first, the Brahmans, or priests, 
sprung from the mouth of Brahma, distinguished by the sacred cord around their 
bodies ; secondly, the Kshuttries, or warriors, sprung from his arms ; third, the 
Vaisyas, from his thighs, the merchants, men of commerce, industry, and agriculture ; 
and fourth, the Sudras, the cultivators of the soil, laborers, and servants, sprung 
from the feet of Brahma. Below these are those of no caste, the Pariahs or out- 
casts. One sees men of all these several castes, crowded together, jostling one 
another on the railway platform and crowding into the same carriage ; for though 
there are four classes of carriages on Indian railways, many of the highest castes are 
the poorest, and have to travel fourth class, and you will see the Brahman sitting 
side by side with the Pariah. The railway is the great antagonist to caste in India.' 
Tanjore is a large city of a hundred thousand inhabitants. In former times it 
was the seat of Brahminical learning, and it contains several pagodas in large, green 
areas or gardens, and two large walled forts. As you approach the city, the Great 
Pagoda, with its lofty tower, is a conspicuous object, impressive and graceful. Its 

' The Institutes of Menu provide that if Sudras, comprising three-fourths of the Hindus, dare to sit with their superiors, 
they shall be gashed on the buttocks or suffer exile. For sitting with a Brahman the penalty was maiming for life. — Ed. 
62 




GOPURA AT COMBACONUM. 



64 



MADRAS rRESIDENCY. 



base measures eighty feet square, and the pyramid rises fourteen stories to the height 
of two hundred feet. The top-stone is a huge monoHth, beautifully carved and 
weighing eighty tons. The courts are not covered over as at Madura, but are open 
to light and air, and within the precincts is a large open square six hundred feet by 




PAGODA AT POXDICHERRV. 



two hundred. Here is the colossal stone bull Nundi, fifteen feet long and twelve 
feet high, in a couching posture. It rests upon a platform which you ascend by 
twelve steps, and has over it a large canopy supported by granite pillars. This bull, 
sacred to Siva, faces the magnificent temple, an oblong building of red sandstone, 
with the huge tower rising nobly over the shrine. Farther on to the left, but within 
the inclosure, is another but much smaller shrine, of beautifully carved stone, and 
cloisters surround the court, covered with coarse pictures of heroes. To the right, 
within the court, is the Temple of Soubramanya, " as exquisite a piece of decorative 

65 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

architecture," says Mr. Fergusson, " as is to be found in the south of India." The 
steps up to its entrance are supported by small carved elephants with men, in singular 
attitudes, sitting on or falling from their trunks. The palace of the Princess of Tan- 
jore contains an open court, with singular figures in stone, and a statue in white 
marble of the late Rajah. In the Protestant mission church, built by Schwartz, the 
remains of this German missionary lie. A slab behind the pulpit, with an inscription, 
marks the spot. The country about Tanjore looked peculiarly rich and fertile. The 
great river Kaveri here opens out into a delta, and irrigation works of considerable 
extent distribute its fertilizinsf waters. 




PAGODA OF CHILLAMBARAM : INTERIOR COURT. 



The Danes were the first among Protestant nations to send the Gospel to India, 
for in the year 1705 Ziegenbalg came to Tranquebar on the east coast, and made his 
vvav to Tanjore dressed in native costume. The Rajah at first objected, but after- 
ward sancfioned the mission. Ziegenbalg, having translated the New Testament 
into Tamil, died in 1719, and his work was resumed by Schultze, and several congre- 
gations of Christians grew up in the kingdom of Tanjore. Then followed the 
war between France and England which ended i«n the conquests of the latter under 
Clive, and the chaplaincy of the garrison of Trichinopoly by the equally eminent 
soldier, although of the Prince of Peace, the well-known Schwartz, whom the Rajah 
requested to remove from Trichinopoly and to reside at Tanjore. Here he was em- 
ployed upon several occasions to treat with the native princes. " Let them send the 
Christian," said they; " he will not deceive us." On two occasions, when the Fort 

66 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

of Tanjore was threatened with famine, and the Rajah was powerless to obtain sup- 
plies, Schwartz, at his earnest request, undertook to relieve it, and succeeded in saving 
its inmates from starvation. A few hours before his death the Rajah requested 
Schwartz to act as a guardian to his infant son. Schwartz, in fact, was revered as 
a father by the people as well as by the Rajah of Tanjore. The Tanjore mission 
was his chief work, and he continued its guiding spirit to the end. At his 
death in 1798, after forty-eight years spent in the country, a long and bitter cry of 
lamentation arose from multitudes, and the Rajah shed a flood of tears over his body, 
and covered it with a gold cloth. The Christian Knowledge Society sustained the 
mission after Schwartz's death, and the Leipzig missionaries commended their Chris- 
tianity to the Hindus by the adoption of caste, a step which has made the prosecution 
of Christian work very difficult. But the Propagation Society has nine central mis- 
sions in the provinces of Tanjore and Trichinopoly. 

The new railway between Tanjore and Madras was not yet complete, the bridges 
over the Peravanur not being built. In the middle of the night we were conveyed in 
bullock wagons inland and across this estuary, thus giving us an idea of what trav- 
eling must have been in the country before railways were made.' 

The line runs along the tract of country long known as the Coromandel Coast, 
which stretches for about four hundred miles north from Adam's Bridee. Throughout 

O 

its whole extent this coast does not afford any secure port or harbor. A heavy surf rolls 
in upon the flat, sandy shore. The soil near the coast is a mixture of sea-sand and 
loam, often in dry weather covered with salt. Farther inland low hills commence, 
and the soil, when irrigated, is fertile, but the upper part of the hills is sterile. 

This coast, though destitute of harbors, has been the favorite country for Euro- 
pean settlements. Here is Pondicherry, still belonging to the French, divided into 
two portions : the white town orderly, neat, with beautiful boulevards, the black, or 
native town, with a large pagoda. Its lower part is quite plain, but from its cornice 
upward there are large and fantastic figures, those in the center somewhat resem- 
bling Buddha, and indicating the influence of his system, even in South India. The 
summit seems to represent the Buddhist trinitj'. 

Pondicherry is a town of fifty thousand inhabitants, including about a thousand 
Europeans. The Missions dtrangercs de France have a settlement here. They are 
successful among the natives ; but they conform in great part to their idolatrous 
customs and caste prejudices. The priests have assumed the character of Brahmans 
of a superior caste from the Western world. In fact, at one time they were wont to 
wear the cavy, or orange robe, peculiar to the most venerated Brahmans, and carried 
on their foreheads the sacred spot of sandal-wood powder. " If," says Abbe Dubois, 
"any mode of Christian worship is calculated to gain ground in India, it is no doubt 
the Catholic form, which Protestants consider idolatry. Its external pomp and show 
are well suited to the genius of the natives. It has a pooja, or sacrifice, viz., the 
mass ; processions, images, and statues ; tirtan, or holy water ; feasts, fasts, and 
prayers for the dead ; invocation of saints and other practices which bear more or 
less resemblance to that of the Hindus." 

Here, too, is Cuddalore, now a handsome town of forty thousand inhabitants, 
formerly belonging to the French, but yielded by treaty in 1795, and Tranquebar, 

' The custom of reckoning time from midnight is now introduced on some Indian railwaj'S. Midnight is zero, noon, 12 ; 
I P.M. is 13, and so on to 23.59, one minute before the next midnight. 

67 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 



once a Danish settlement. The entire district abounds in specimens of Dravidiaii 
architecture. Far south by Paumban Passage is the great Pagoda of Ramessveram, 
exhibiting all the beauties of the Dravidian style, with four stone towers and cor- 
ridors with columns elaborately carved. 

On the railway, twenty-four miles northeast from Tanjore, we pass Combaco- 
num, a town of forty-five thousand inhabitants, one of the old capitals of the native 
Chola kingdom. It was once called the Oxford of Southern India, on account of its. 
learning. It has a richly ornamented tower, twelve stories, and is one hundred and 
fifty feet high. The Chola kingdom was one of that triarchy of kingdoms which 

existed in South India in the time of 
Asoka, and down to the Mohammedan 
conquests, the other two being the 
Chera and the Pandya. The large 
pagoda here is dedicated to Vishnu, 
another indication of Buddhist influ- 
ence, for Siva is the favorite deity of 
the south, and Vishnuism, Mr. Fergus- 
son observes, is a bad and corrupt 
form of Buddhism. The great tower 
can be ascended, but the stone steps, 
are old and broken, and there is no 
hand-rail ; the floors are of stone, and 
shake alarmingly to the tread. Near 
the temple is a large sacred tank into 
which it is said that the Ganges flows- 
every year. So vast is the concourse 
of people who descend into the water 
to bathe at one time, that the surface 
rises some inches. This confirms their 
belief in the miracle. The idol cars 
are drawn through the streets, as at 
Puri, and every year persons are acci- 
dentally crushed beneath their wheels. 
The tank is surrounded by a number of 
small pagodas, each containing a /zV/^aw. 
The Beauchamp College at Combaconum is one of the best educational institutions 
in South India, and there is a very good school for girls, with upward of a hundred 
scholars. Farther north is Chillambaram, with a very large tank, and at the four car- 
dinal points four vast towers, together with the usual hall of a thousand pillars. On 
the west of the tank is the Temple of Parvati, sixty-eight feet high, and on the south 
the Temple of Siva, containing the sacred image of the dancing Siva. The roof is cov- 
ered with plates of copper gilt. This temple is reputed to be one of the most ancient 
of the Dravidian pagodas. It is highly venerated by the people, who believe it to be 
the work of a king in the sixth century whose name signifies "golden-colored em- 
peror." The tradition is that he was a leper, but miraculously recovered by bathing 
in the sacred waters of the tank at Chillambaram. In gratitude he rebuilt the temple. 
The outer wall is six hundred yards by five hundred, and in the center lies the cele- 

68 ■ 




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t 1 


C t t ( 


d ■ ' ' 


\ 


r : 


fe. *Ka "^^ 




r 




^ 







fiCCKcer. se 



SPECIMENS OF SCULPTURE ON PILLARS, IN THE GRAND 
GALLERY, CHILLAMBARAM. 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 




brated tank around which the buildings cluster. The four points of the compass are 
marked by four large gopuras or towers. In the sixteenth century the kings of the 
triarchy made many donations to the fane. The oldest thing now existing is, in Mr. 
Fergusson's judgment, a little shrine in the inmost incloSure with a little porch of 
two pillars, more graceful and more 
elegantly executed than any other of 
their class. A chain cut out of solid 
stone connects two similar and corre- 
sponding pillars, upon which dancing 
figures are engraved in honor of Venna, 
the god of dancing, of Kashmir, with 
whom a legend has connected the 
building. A double gallery with plain 
and chaste columns runs along the in- 
terior inclosure wall. But the most ele- 
gant workmanship is found in the porch 
of the Temple of Parvati, the central 
aisle of which is seven yards wide. 
Here the architect has put forth all his 
power. The temple is an aggregate of 
buildings of different styles of architec- 
ture. Portions could not have been 
raised till after the Mohammedans had 
settled in the south and taught the Hin- 
dus their methods. It is of (rranite, and 
now covers thirty-nine acres of ground. 

At CoNjEVERAM, One of the seven holy cities of India, and the Benares of the 
south, once a city of the Hindu kingdom of Chola, there are two groups of temples, 
with commanding gopuras nearly two hundred feet high. A symbol like a horse- 
shoe on the wall of the inner inclosure is said to be the first letter of the word 

Vishnu, and there has been hard fighting 
for nearly a century about the form of this 
symbol ; indeed, the Tamils are still at 
law about it. The one party contend that 
the mark or symbol— made with a kind of 
white paint on the forehead — should be 
made with a plain line, while the other 
party make it with a little boss at the bot- 
tom, extending half-way down the nose I 
These are the two sects of the Vishnuvites. 
The usual mark worn by the Vishnu wor- 
shipers is two perpendicular strokes meet- 
ing below in a curve ; that of the Siva 
worshipers is quite different, consisting of 
three horizontal lines, usually white. The town of Conjeveram is full of fine trees 
and low houses. Fantastic figures in wood in the thousand-pillared hall are carried 
in procession on festival occasions. A large number of naiitch girls are kept in this 

6q 



CHAIN CUT OUT OF A SINGLE STONE; PILLARS 
27 FEET APART, CHILLAMBARAM. 



S MM^^^^^ ll 




DOUBLE GALLERY, CHILLAMBARAM. 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

temple. The gopuras are full of chambers, but all unoccupied. This is strange, for 
their great height must conduce to airiness and coolness. But when asked, the 
Brahmans said they dared not sleep there, for fear of being attacked by evil spirits, 
ghosts of Brahmans turned into devils ; and they used both the Sanscrit and Eng- 
lish word explaining the forms as high-caste devils. 

About three hours before reaching Madras forty miles south, on the coast, are 
the ruins of an extensive town cut in rock, and called Mahavalipur, or the Seven 
Pagodas. Here are many curious excavations and carvings in the rock — groups of 
monkeys ; the boar's temple, representing Vishnu as a boar ; the tiger's cave, a cave 
surrounded with tiger's heads carved in the rock. Another singularly sculptured 
rock, forty feet high and twice as long presents a hundred strange figures of men, 
women, monkeys, and elephants. The shore temple is washed by the waves, and the 
legend tells of many similar buildings partially submerged. 




ENTRANCE TO THE PAGODA, CONJEVERAM. 



Southey, in his Curse of Kekama, refers to this legend of a submerged city 

thus : 

" For many an age 
Hath ocean warred against his palaces. 
Till overwhelmed beneath the waves — 
Not overthrown — so well the awful chief 

Had laid their deep foundations 

Their golden summits in the noonday light 
Shone o'er the dark green deep that rolled between, 
Her domes and pinnacles and spires were seen 
Peering above the sea, a mournful sight. 
And on the sandy shore, beside the verge 
Of ocean, here and there a rock-cut fane 
Resisted in its strength the surf and surge 
That on their deep foundations beat in vain." 

Mahavalipur is, according to Mr. Fergusson, a petrified Buddhist village, applied 
to the purposes of another religion, but representing Buddhist forms in the seventh 

70 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

century, when Buddhism was dying out. Doubtless it had some connection with 
Ceylon. The people who carved these curious monuments seem, says Mr. F., sud- 
denly to have settled on a spot where no temples existed before, and to have set to 
work at once to fashion the detached granite boulders they found on the shore into 
nine raths or miniature temples. They pierced the side of the hill with fourteen 
caves, carved two long bas-reliefs, and then abandoned them unfinished. The raths 
are close together on the sandy beach south of the hill of caves. The roofs are 
ornamented with ranges of little recesses or simulated cells, which characterize the 




MAHAVALIPUR : THE CHAITIYA. 



Dravidian temples, and are surmounted by a dome, an equally universal feature. 
These singular ruins, while they are memorials of Buddhism in its decay, throw light 
upon the history of the Dravidian buildings, which probably were originally of wood, 
and from about the seventh century began to be constructed in stone. Regarding 
the Hinduism of Southern India, as embodied in these temples. Dr. Monier Williams 
says : " Religion is even more closely interwoven with every affair of daily life, and 
is even more showily demonstrative in the south of India than in the north. A dis- 
tinction must be pointed out between Brahmanism and Hinduism. Brahmanism is 
the purely pantheistic and not necessarily idolatrous creed evolved by the Brahmans 
out of the religion of the Veda. Hinduism is that complicated system of polytheistic 
doctrines, idolatrous superstitions, and caste usages which have been developed out 
of Brahmanism after its contact with Buddhism and its admixture with the non-Aryan 

71 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 




GREAT RATH AT MAHAVALIPUR. 



creeds of the Dravidians and aborigines of Southern India. Brahmanism and 
Hinduism, though infinitely remote from each other, are integral parts of the same 
system. One is the germ or root, the other is the rank and diseased outgrowth. 
. . . . Vaishnavism and Saivism, or the worship of Vishnu and Siva, constitute the 

very heart and soul of Southern Hinduism. As 
to Brahma, the third member of the Hindu 
Triad, and original creator of the world, he is 
not worshiped at all, except in the person of 
his alleged offspring, the Brahmans. Moreover, 
Vaishnavism and Saivism are nowhere so pro- 
nounced and imposing as in Southern India. 
The temples of Conjeveram, Tanjore, Trlchi- 
nopoly, Madura, Tinnevelly, and Ramessveram 
are as superior in magnitude to those of Ben- 
ares as Westminster Abbey and St. Paul's are 
to the other churches of London. Further- 
more, it must not be forgotten that although a 
belief in devils, and homage to bhutas, or spirits 
of all kinds, are common all over India, yet what 
is called ' devil worship ' is far more systemati- 
cally practiced in the South of India and in 
Ceylon than in the North. The god Siva is 
constantly connected with demoniacal agencies, 
either as superintending and controlling them, 
■or as himself possessing, especially in the person of his wife Kali, all. the fierce- 
ness and malignity usually attributed to demons All honor to those noble- 
hearted missionaries who are seeking by the establishment of female schools to 
supply India with its most pressing need — good wives and mothers — and are training 
72 




DETAILS OF ENTRANCES TO SUBTERRANEAN 
TEMPLES, MAHAVALIPUR. 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 



girls to act as high-class schoohnistresses, and sending them forth to form new 
centers of female education in various parts of Southern India." 

No city, perhaps, in the world has a site so utterly unpropitious and disadvan- 
tageous as Madras. On a coast exposed without shelter to the northeast monsoon, 
with a barrier of sand lashed continually by a surf passable in fine weather only by 
native boats of singular construction, manned by native boatmen, and in foul weather 
insurmountable even by these, with no navigable river flowing into the sea, it spreads 
along the border of a wilderness of barren sand in the torrid zone, exposed to the un- 
sheltered glare of a scorching sun. The first British settlement was at Armagan, sixty 
miles north, but in 1639 was abandoned for the miserable spot, granted in irony by a 
native prince, upon which Fort St. George was built. Nothing more strikingly illus- 
trates the power of British pluck and enterprise than the present aspect of Madras. 
Along that inhospitable coast for a distance of 
nine miles, and covering that sandy waste, there 
now stretches a thriving city, with an area of 
twenty-seven square miles, and a population of 
four hundred thousand. Along that unprotected 
roadstead the ships of all nations ride at anchor 
to take in or discharge cargo ; and from the city 
the iron horse wends its way northwesterly across 
the continent, eight hundred miles in forty hours, 
to Bombay, and sends its tracks southward 
almost to Cape Comorin. The meridian of 
Madras now gives its time to the entire railway 
system of India. 

Spreading over this wide area, Madras is 
an aggregation of no less than twenty-three 
towns and villages, with public buildings, Euro- 
pean residences, warehouses, and even shops, in 
park-like inclosures, filling up the intervening 
spaces. Beginning with the north, there is Roya- 
puram, with the Tinnevelly settlement ; then the 
Black Town, defended from the encroachments of the sea by a strong stone bulwark, 
and with seven wells of water, filtered through the sand, pure and wholesome. The 
population of these two is one hundred and fifty thousand. Next comes Fort St. 
George, the first nucleus of the city, strongly fortified, containing the arsenal, council 
house, and the Fort church, with its monument to the missionary Schwartz ; and be- 
yond, the island and the Governor's house and gardens. Then southward, Tripli- 
cane, the Mohammedan quarter, with eighty thousand souls ; and beyond this St. 
Thome, the traditional site of the martyrdom of the Apostle Thomas. Inland, be- 
yond the Fort and the Black Town, are Chintadrepettah and Vepery, in which stands 
the church where the Lutheran missionary Sartorius preached for many years, and 
where the London Mission has its compound. The view from the lighthouse, one 
hundred and eleven feet high, is extensive ; one sees the entire city, and%he shore for 
miles. The houses for the most part are yellow, covered with the stucco called 
chunam, which when dried and polished has the appearance of the finest marble. The 
grounds round the European houses are well planted, and the country now presents 




ENTRANCES TO SUBTERRANEAN TEMPLES, 
MAHAVALIPUR. 



73 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 




TIGER CAVE, MAHAVALIPUR. 



a green and cheerful aspect. Mount Road, running south and inland, leads to many- 
bungalows and hotels. The drive along the beach to the Capper House is the 

pleasantest in Madras. Here one meets the sea 
breeze, appropriately called by the residents 
"The Doctor." Here we pass the most impos- 
ing of the public buildings of the city, in partic- 
ular the University. It was strange to see on 
the Sunday the punkas swinging during service 
in the churches. Like huge weavers ' beams 
with heavy curtains, they are kept in motion by 
means of cords pulled from the outside by two 
natives, who keep each other awake. However 
strict a Sabbatarian, the minister as well as the 
people must have the punka kept going over his 
head throughout the service, 

In Madras we visited two large hospitals ; 
the one in the Foreign Town supported by 
Europeans and conducted upon the English 
system, the other in the Native Town and under 
native superintendence. The general hospital 
in the Foreign Town is a very large and well- 
ventilated building. It has spacious corridors, wide and shady verandas, and noble 
wards. The doors were open on every hand, mainly toward the verandas ; and a 
refreshing breeze, passing gently through, relieved the heat, which in this climate is 
so oppressive to the patient. In every ward 
freshness and cheerfulness seemed to bespeak a 
cure. Hopefulness was upon the countenances 
even of the most afflicted, and pleasant pictures 
and beautiful flowers gladdened the ej'e. The 
matron is a lady, clever and kind. Her apart- 
ments are at the top of the building, on which a 
garden is laid out, and which commands an ex- 
tensive view. The other hospital, that in the 
Black Town, was, I regret to say, a contrast to 
all this. It is called the Choultry Poorhouse 
and Hospital. Here mute misery was written 
on every face. The patients had no bedclothes. 
The paupers lie on a mat on the floor. The 
portion set apart for lepers presented a most 
painful spectacle. Those who were in the early 
stages of the disease were all oiled, and were 
sitting on their haunches, rubbing and scratch- 
ing themselves uneasily. Two young men, 
brothers, presented two different types of the 
disease. The one was not in the least disfigured ; the other was frightfully so, the 
face being covered with blotches. But whatever the form it assumes, the disease is 
incurable. In its later stages ulcers appear, and eat off fingers and toes, features 

74 




ENTRANCE TO ROCK TEMPLE, MAHAVA- 
LIPUR. 



MADRA S PRESIDENC \ \ 

and limbs. Several poor wretches in great suffering- were plastering their own sores, 
the materials for doing so being handed to them at the point of a long wand. It 
was a revolting sight. Most of the sufferers were natives, but a few knew English. 
To these I spoke a few words about the Lord Jesus and the lepers. It was all one 
could then do. Sickened and saddened, we next went through bare and comfortless 
wards for aged and infirm men and women, who here drag out the residue of their 
days of sorrow. There is also a foundling ward. The foundlings seemed to be in 
great wretchedness. In this hospital there were 250 patients, and the average was 
at that time ten deaths a week.' 

During the awful famine of 1878, there were nine thousand inmates kept in a 
sort of camp, and an average of thirty deaths a day. The dead were burnt in heaps 







SELLERS OF MILK, MADRAS. 



by contract daily. In this lazar house there were, when we visited it, 250 patients 
in hospital, 265 in the almshouses, 42 in the Rajah's Choultry, and 250 lepers ; mak- 
ing a total of 817 souls. The horrors of that famine year are untold and untellable. 
As the wagons of grain passed from the shore to the railway, they had to be 
guarded with a strong military force ; but the starving would risk blows and sabers 
and horses' hoofs to pierce the sacks, so that the grain might trickle out ; and after- 
ward hundreds might be seen eagerly picking up the grains that had fallen upon the 
road. In punishment for this offense all who could be captured were driven into pens 
set up upon the shore, and confined there without food or water, and under the blaze of 
the sun, for four and twenty hours. Thus many perished. And this was not in re- 
mote districts, but at the headquarters of British power, pomp, and fashion in South 
India — in Madras itself! Inland, they died of famine by hundreds. "I do not 

' Great advance has been made in India, latterly, in all departments of medical work. I visited 208 lepers in one hospital 
where everything was scrupulously neat and where the only odor was the perfume of flowers. — Ed. 

75 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

know," said an eye witness, a government dispenser of relief, " I do not know what 
we should have done without the dogs and vultures." 

No account of Madras would be complete without a reference to the Free 
Church College, which stands first among the educational establishments of Southern 
India. It was begun in 1837 by the well-known missionary, Dr. Anderson, whose 
name is in the south what the name of Dr. Duff is in the north, and within a year 
there were two hundred and seventy scholars. But then it was suddenly broken up by 
the agency of " that hydra-headed monster," Caste. Two Pariah boys were admitted, 
and the rest left. Dr. Anderson was entreated to dismiss the Pariah boys, but he 
was firm, and he gained the victory. By-and-by the youths returned, and Pariah and 
Brahman might be seen sitting side by side on the same bench, learning the same 
lessons. This was a blow given to caste that has been felt throughout Southern India, 
and felt to the present day. The numbers soon rose to five hundred, and ever since 
the college has maintained its position as the most efficient in Madras. It is a 
striking fact that the three Presidency cities in India — Madras, Calcutta, and Bombay 
— possess colleges organized by Scotchmen, which have accomplished greater results 
in producing an enlightened and well-trained body of natives in India than any 
other society, nay more, than the Government itself. 

At Tirupetty, about fifty miles from Madras, there is an old temple much fre- 
quented by pilgrims, and very interesting to the student of Indian architecture. 
Pursuing the path up the hill, we go through three towers curiously carved. The 
hill is two thousand five hundred feet high, and has seven summits, on the last of 
which is the pagoda. Along the top are ruined houses, forming a quadrangle, with 
stone wall inclosure. A tower rises above these, and around is a broad belt of 
mango, tamarind, and sandal trees. It is said to be one of the oldest Dravidian 
temples. 

West of Madras about sixty miles is Arcot^ the famous town which Clive 
pounced upon in 1751, that he might relieve Trichinopoly. The garrison, seeing 
Clive's troops marching on steadily in the teeth of a thunder storm, thought they 
were fireproof, and abandoned the place. Entering it, Clive held the place during a 
fifty days' siege, and repelled the assaults of Mohammedan troops. Arcot is now a 
large and prosperous town.' Beyond lies Mysore, one of the most flourishing of the 
native tributary states in India, occupying a table-land, lofty, well-wooded, and cool, 
where is the famous Seringapatam, now almost in ruins, and Bangalore, one of the 
healthiest cities in India, with a large British settlement. Scattered over the table- 
land are many huge isolated rocks called drilgs, four thousand feet above the sea, and 
formerly used as fortresses. Coorg is a mountainous district, thickly wooded, with 
extensive coffee and tea plantations. Worthiest of record is the name of a native, 
Samuel Flavel, a man of great originality, intellectual power, and untiring zeal, who 
for twenty years, 1 826-1 847, was instrumental in spreading Christianity, with its 
civilizing influences, in Mysore. 

The coast voyage from Madras to Calcutta occupies eight days, and gives an 
opportunity of seeing the main ports, the steamer calling daily at some place on the 
way, and stopping four or six hours. Of the entire voyage the most difficult and dis- 
agreeable part often is the passage over the surf from the shore to the ship. The 

' Occupied by the American Board in 1851. Dr. Henry Martyn Scudder started the mission. He was afterward pastor in 
Brooklyn and Chicago. Seven sons of John Scudder, M. D., became missionaries in the land of their birth. — Ed. 
76 




^8 



PORTION OF GOPURA AT TIRUPETTY. 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 




MADRAS SURF. 



morning was calm ; yet the huge billows were rolling in in all their majesty and 
strength. There lay our Masulah boat waiting to receive us. These boats are 
twenty-five feet long, eight feet broad, six feet deep, flat bottomed, pointed, and curved 
up high at either end. They are exceedingly light, drawing only three inches of 
water. There is not a nail in theni nor a rib of timber. They are sewn too-ether 
withcocoanut fiber, and padded inside with straw, outside with tow. Thej^ yield 
to the force of the wave and to the bump of the shore. As they lie on the 
sand, they seem to you immovable ; but the native boatmen, twelve in number, 
soon push their obedient and easily managed craft into the advancing lip of the 
wave ; it is carried out as this retreats, and they dexterously jump in, lay hold of 
their paddles, and pull with their might. The helmsman steers with a long and pow- 
erful oar, and thus keeps the bow to the waves. And now you see approachino- the 
next yawning wave high above you, and threatening to engulf you ; but meeting it, 
the sloping bow mounts up perpendicularly, shipping perhaps a quantity of spray, 
but springing first to the top and then over the crest of the huge billow, and down 
again into the shallow water left as the wave rolls on. In calm weather only three 
of these huge billows are dangerous, and these surmounted you are safe. But the 
boatmen have been trained to the work from boyhood, and handle their craft with 
marvelous skill. Though a daily feat, the novelty seems never to wear off. They are 
all excitement, and cheer over each leap and plunge. Besides the Masulah boats, 
another kind of craft is used by the natives, called a catamaran, which is simply a raft 
constructed of three pieces of timber ten or twelve feet long, tied together, the mid- 
dle one being longer than the others and curved upward at the ends. It is driven 
through the surf by a man with a paddle, who is often washed off, but is so well 
practiced that he leaps on again in an instant. With these amphibious creatures 
the catamaran keeps on its way where a boat would inevitably be lost. It took us 
half an hour in the Masulah boat to reach our ship, the boatmen keeping time to a 



monotonous soncr. 



79 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

The first port off which we anchored on our coasting voyage northward was 
Masulipatam, a very old city, of forty thousand inhabitants, situated in the Telugu 
District, between the deltas of the two mighty rivers, the Krishna and the Godavery. 
Telugu is the most melodious and soft of the Dravidian languages, and is spoken 
throughout the portion of the Madras Presidency extending northward to Orissa. 
It is also spoken far inland in the Nizam's dominions. The great rivers the Krishna 
and the Godavery form the characteristic physical features of the country. Both rise 
in the Western Ghauts, seventy miles northwest of Bombay, and sweep across the vast 
table-land from west to east, flowing right across the Indian peninsula, winding their 
way by deep defiles through the Eastern Ghauts, and spreading over the country in 
immense deltas as they empty themselves into the sea. Formerly these rivers were 
a peril to the country, overflowing their banks and sweeping whole villages away. 




PALMYRAS IN THE GODAVERY. 



But the irrigation works of modern enterprise " have turned the furious streams into 
ministering angels." Colossal anic2its, or dams, have with immense labor been 
thrown across them, and the water is carried by canals over the whole country, which 
has thus become one of the richest grain-producing districts in India. Masulipatam 
possesses a cotton manufacture, distinguished for the bright and beautiful colors 
of its cloth. In the center of the city, where the streets meet, are thirty-three huge 
limestone slabs covered with alto- and bas-reliefs brought from the ruins of a neigh- 
boring pagoda. Masulipatam is the center of the operations of the Church Mis- 
sionary Society in this part of India ; the noble high school for the thorough 
education of young Hindus is distinguished in influence and success, and its pupils 
are to be found in almost every department as sub-magistrates, schoolmasters, and 
even deputy collectors. Inland, at Guntur, the American Lutherans have a flour- 
ishing mission. In this district are the Buddhist topes of Amravati, fragments of 
which are in the British Museum. The rails are the most richly ornamented in 
India, and furnish a series of pictures of Buddhism, "unsurpassed " says Fergusson, 
"by anything now known to exist in India." 

So 








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MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

Another night's vogage brought us northward to Cocanada, north of the river in 
tlie Godavery District, where we spent our second day. Landing in the morning, we 
made our way to the compound of the Canadian Baptist Mission, dehghtfully shaded 
with banyan and pipul trees, and there we heard much of the marvelous conversions 
at Nellore and Ongole, where eight thousand natives had in one month embraced 
Christianity, owing to Christian Ivindness during the famine. Here we traveled 
inland about five miles in coffin-like palanquins, with twelve bearers to each, — who 
went dolefully along on the high banks of a canal, keeping time with their voices in 
the heat of the day,— to a lonely pagoda whose high tower is a revolting sight. It is, 




BRAHMAN PREPARED 1-OR PRAYERS. 



in fact, a mass of obscenity cut in stone, such as one could hardly imagine depravity 
itself capable of inventing. Yet this is part and parcel of the religion of Brahma, 
that religion upon the excellency of which some Sanscrit professors expatiate ! One 
sight of this temple at Cocanada would suffice to disabuse them of their fine pictures 
of Hinduism and of the elevating power of the Yedas. A few pet quotations are 
always at hand when one would praise Brahmanism. They are, in the oldest Vedas, 
grains of wheat in the bushel of chaff. If we would learn what the Hindu religion 
really is, and what are its practical fruits, we must visit the temples of India. 

Next morning we reached Vizag. The headland, one thousand seven hundred 
feet, as approached from the south, is called the Dolphin's Nose ; there is a huge cave 
on the sea-line, and the cliffs are imposing. On the hill above the creek three strik- 
es 



MADRAS PRESIDENCY. 

ing buildings meet the eye : a heathen temple, a Mohammedan mosque, and a Roman 
Catholic church. As we landed, we saw crowds of poor women working as porters, and 
carrying huge boxes of cargo. Vizag is in the province called the Northern Circars, 
extending about five hundred miles along the Bay of Bengal, and among the earliest 
possessions of the East India Company. The natives are a fine class of men, both in 
physique and in character, and live under the simple form of village government. 
The London Mission here was founded in 1805, at a time when the Company dis- 
countenanced missions. But it has held its ground, and its missionaries have trans- 
lated the Scriptures into Telugu. I met the venerable John Hay, the chief 
translator and master of the language, who has been here for forty years. The 
Telugu language is, Mr. Hay says, in its primitive forms, much simpler than in its 
more modern development. On account of its soft accent and musical tones, it has 
been called by Europeans the Italian of the East. 

Eight miles from Gopalpur is Berhampur, chief town of the district of Ganjam. 
Here there is a flourishing Baptist Mission. This district forms the extreme north 
of the Madras Presidency. 

Inland, and behind the strip of the Madras Presidency, running up thus far north 
along the coast, are two large tracts of territory, the Central Provinces, now belong- 
ing to Britain, and Haidarabad, belonging to the Nizam of the Deccan. The district 
called the Central Provinces is not thickly peopled, the country being hilly and forest 
land. The chief town, Nagpur, contains about eighty thousand inhabitants. There 
are extensive coal-fields, and cotton is much cultivated. The Deccan is a name 
applied to the entire central plateau of the Indian Peninsula, of which Haidarabad 
forms the northern portion. The Vindhya Mountains, running east and west, form a 
great wall, separating the Deccan and the Ganges valley. They extend from Mount 
Parasnath in the east to Mount Abu in the west. Near the city of Haidarabad is the 
British settlement called Secunderabad, eighteen hundred feet above the sea, where 
are the largest barracks in India. The Godavery river flows though this district east- 
ward, and it is crossed by the railway connecting Madras with Bombay. Not far from 
Haidarabad is Golconda ; and near the fort, on the top of a conical hill, the tombs of 
the kings are well worth a visit. Their vastness and solidity are most impressive. 
The diamonds of Golconda were merely cut and polished here, being found at Partial. 
Chanda stands amid charming scenery. The Free Church of Scotland has flourishlng 
missions at Nagpur and at the settlement called Jalna, a British cantonment in the 
Nizam's dominions. 



84 




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THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 



ORISSA AND JUGGERNAUT— CALCUTTA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS — BARRACKPORE — SERAM- 
PORE DARJEELING AND THE HIMALAYAS — THE GREAT GANGETIC PLAIN. 

IN the coasting voyage from Madras we have the 
Madras Presidency still on our left, northward as 
far as Gopalpur. Here the country of the Northern 
Circars ends, and the coast of Orissa begins. The 
maritime part of Orissa forms the British district of 
Cuttack, called by seamen the Orissa Coast. The 
shore is flat and dreary, and inland appear several 
"saddle-hills" terminating in a chain of mountains 
running south. The extensive Chilka Lake is joined 
< I .(J to the sea by a narrow strait. 

' >'Ci After leaving Gopalpur, our good steamer, 

keeping near to shore, brought us next mornino- to 
Pun in Orissa, and the far-famed Temple of Jugger- 
naut. This part of the coast is considered healthy, 
and the sea breeze is found very refreshincr. The 
houses of English residents are on the seashore, and 
the native town and temple, surrounded by high wall 
and luxuriant vegetation, lie a little inland. The 
temple inclosure measures four hundred and twenty 
by three hundred and fifteen feet, and the height of 
the great tower is one hundred and ninety-two feet. 
"Whitewash and paint," says Mr. Fergusson, "have done their worst to add 
vulgarity to forms already sufficiently ungraceful, and this, the most famous ' 




HIMALAYAN WOMAN. 



IS 



87 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

also the most disappointing of Northern Hindu temples." It was erected 
in A. D. 1 1 74, and is the latest of the Orissa group of temples. It is dedi- 
cated to Vishnu, and pilgrims are continually on their way through Bengal to 
and from this temple. It is calculated that ten thousand pilgrims annually 
die either of disease or fatigue and want at Puri, or on the return journey. 
Those who live bring back with them umbrellas made of cane and palm-leaves, 
bundles of painted rattan canes, and backbones of cuttle-fish, to show that they 
have been on the seashore. These fish bones are called by the poetic name 
of "ocean foam." The street leading to the temple is full of sacred buildings, and 
the inhabitants of the town number thirty thousand. Three wooden images of 
revolting aspect, six feet high, represent the god Juggernaut, his brother, and his 
sister. Once a year, in the month of March, these are taken through the town, each 
idol in its car, that of Juggernaut being thirty-four feet high, with sixteen wheels. 
On these occasions a hundred and fifty thousand pilgrims are assembled. The Eng- 
lish Government has interfered to put an end to the self-immolations beneath its 
wheels. Mounted police, armed with heavy whips, accompany the car in its progress, 
and when a frenzied devotee throws himself in its way the whip is applied, and he 
immediately jumps up and runs away, forgetting that if he is willing to be killed he 
should be willing to bear the lash. The tradition of a bone of Krishna being con- 
tained in the image is regarded as a Brahmanical form of Buddhist relic worship, and 
the three images are supposed to be only the Buddhist Trinity — Buddha, Dharma, 
Sanga. The idol is, in fact, an imitation of the Buddhist emblem. Buddhism for- 
merly existed in Orissa, and the tooth-relic of Buddha was preserved at Puri. Every- 
thing at Puri is redolent of Buddhism. Another significant vestige of this system is 
the absence of all recog-nition of caste during the festivals. In the neighborhood of 
Juggernaut, on the coast, is the so-called Black Pagoda at Kanarak, of which only 
the beautiful three-storied porch remains, carved with elegance and variety. Orissa, 
indeed, abounds with temples, all of the same type, and very different from those of 
Southern India. The towers, or vimanas, have a curved outline ; they are not 
storied, and the buildings have no pillars. The Temple of Juggernaut is the latest, 
and the oldest is supposed to be the great Temple of Bhuvaneswar. 

" The Temple of Bhuvaneswar is," says Fergusson, " perhaps the finest example 
of a purely Hindu temple in India." It is three hundred feet long by seventj^-five 
broad. It consisted of a vimana, or tower, and a porch. It has a singularly solemn 
and pleasing aspect. Its height is one hundred and ^ighty feet, wholly of stone, 
and every inch of the surface is covered with elaborate carving. " Infinite labor be- 
stowed on every detail was the mode in which a Hindu thought he could render his 
temple most worthy of the deity ; and, whether he was right or wrong, the effect of 
the whole is marvelously beautiful." 

On Sunday, as we were passing Juggernaut Puri, our ship's company of passen- 
gers and officers were quietly gathered on deck to offer our common prayers to the 
great Father in heaven, to read His Word and to hear His Gospel. Again it was 
my lot to conduct service at sea, and the heaving of the ship formed an accompani- 
ment to the lessons and the sermon. On board was an officer high in rank, and in- 
spector of military schools, who spoke of what he had seen of the brutal treatment 

of the natives. A passing Hindu, he said, was rudely taken to task by Captain 

for not making a salaam to him. " Why should I ?" said the man ; "you have con- 




90 



LLACK PAGODA Al' KANAKAK, ORISSA. 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 



querecl our race, and I won't salaam." " Let us see the general," said the captain. 
The general said, "Make a salaam, sir." The man still firmly but calmly refused, 
and the general seized him by the neck, threw him to the ground, buried his face in 
the dust, and ordered the man fifty lashes. Thus by sheer brute force was this 




PAGODA, NEAR CUTTACK. 

Hindu punished for an independence which we should honor in an Englishman. 
The mild Hindu submits to the English as to a conquering race, and all he can do is 
to be patient and bide his time. If not subdued by justice and kindness, he will 
seek his revenge some day. 

In the afternoon we anchored at False Point, outside the mud-locked harbor at 
the mouth of the JMahanadi River. It is a dismal spot, with a house on the beach 
and a lio-hthouse in the distance. A few cargo boats and native vessels were swing- 
ing at anchor and rolling lazily with the tide. From this place a steam-launch runs, 

91 



THE BENGAL PRO VINCES. 



Or rather crawls up the river to Cuttack, the capital of Orissa, whither some of our 
passengers were bound. When Akbar built Attock, or Attack, on the Indus, 

Kattack and Attack were spoken 
of as the two extremes of the 
Mogul Empire. Seventy miles be- 
yond Cuttack is the famous Bar- 
mul Pass, eight miles long, between 
peaked ridges and hills covered 
with jungle, through which the 
Mahanadi flows rapidly. The 
scenery is said somewhat to re- 
semble the Lower Danube. 

And now weighing anchor, 
and taking our pilot on board, we 
started up that narrow and dan- 
gerous branch of the Ganges called 
the Hoogly. After stopping at 
Diamond Harbor, a turn or reach 
in the river with its signal flagstaff, 
where particulars are given as to 
the height of the tide at the bars, 
we made our way cautiously up 
past "James and Mary," the most 
dangerous of the rapids, all hands 
on board being in readiness to let 
go the anchor if we should ground. 
At Garden Reach our ship was 
turned round, and was steamed 
stern foremost up to Government 
House, Calcutta, amidst a crowd 
of shipping reminding one of 
Liverpool. 

Calcutta, City of Karli, ninety 
miles from the sea, and on the 
east bank of the Hoogly, which 
here flows directly south, is a city 
not two centuries old. It was 
founded by Job Charnock, who 
set up a factory here in 1690, mar- 
ried a Hindu wife, and as to 
religion led a Hindu life. In 1742 
the famous ditch was cut to pro- 
tect the settlement against the 
Mahratta cavalry. It ran along 
the ground now marked by the 
Circular Road. The settlement, in spite of this, was captured by the Nawab, wjien, 
on the 19th of June, 1756, a hundred and forty-six Europeans were imprisoned 
92 




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THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

in the Black Hole, a small chamber eighteen feet square in the Fort, and one liun- 
dred and twenty-three were smothered to death. The Black Hole was destroyed in 
1818. In January of 1757 Clive won back the settlement; and the place has 
gradually grown in size and importance until now it is the center of Government, 
the seat of the Viceroy, and, if we include Howrah, on the opposite bank of the 
river, now connected with the city by a bridge, it numbers nine hundred thousand 
inhabitants. 

The Government House is a huge and imposing building, and in it is that 
famous Council Room, with the portraits of Hastings and others on its i.valls, where 
the welfare or fate of millions of souls has often hung in the balance. In the 
immediate neighborhood are the modern and majestic Law Courts, with towers and 
fretted roof. Behind, rises the dome of the Post Office, a noble building ; and 




BANYAN IN CALCUTTA BOTANIC GARDENS. 



along the road called Chowringee, looking out upon the Maidan, or common, six 
miles in circumference, are the large houses, each within its gardens or "compound," 
that have won for the place the name " City of Palaces"; while the ravages of 
climate upon the health of European residents have suggested the parody, "City of 
Pale Faces." There are many statues and monuments about the Maidan, the 
creatures of official inspiration. To the west is the river, with its forest of masts ; 
and Fort William, which covers some acres between the Maidan and the river to the 
south, is an imposing barrack with a very noble church. To the north runs the 
Chidpore Road, through the Black Town, full of natives and native shops, and 
parallel with it Cornwallis Street, noted for its charitable and educational institu- 
tions. These institutions all over Calcutta stand as the memorials of illustrious 
names. Here it was that Bishop Wilson toiled, and here stands his church, St. 
John's. Here, too, in a conspicuous position, stands the Scotch Church, where the 
zealous and self-denying Dr. Duff labored. In Cornwallis Square is the College 
which he first founded, now in the hands of the Scotch Established Church ; near 
it is the Free Church College, afterward built by Dr. Duff, in which he taught for 



95 



THE BENGAL PRO VINCES. 



many years, and where a thousand young men and boys are daily assembled for 
religious and secular education. It is a giant building, and in the center hall, where 
the school is wont to assemble to hear the Scriptures every morning, now stands a 
bust of that noble presence, placed there in loving remembrance of the founder. 
Not far off, on the banks of the river, is the Burning Ghaut, in the native quarter, 

where the process of cremation may be wit- 
nessed every day. 

Early one morning, after the usual 
CJiota Hazri, or " little breakfast," served 
in the bedroom before rising, I was taken 
by a friend in a boat down the Hoogly to 
the Botanic Gardens, beyond the deserted- 
lookine Bishop's College. The air on the 
and damp, reminding one a 
little of London fog, a 
strange contrast to the 
noonday heat of the city. 
A few boatmen were ply- 
ing their craft lazily 
along. Opposite was the 
palace of the deposed 
monarch of Oude, who 
keeps tigers in his 
grounds. Landinof at a 
wharf on the west bank, 
we at once entered the 
gardens, which cover 
three hundred acres, and 
happily combine the nat- 
ural with the artificial ; 
they contain beautiful 
specimens of the Maurit- 
ius, the talipot, the sago, 
and other palms, a large 
variety of crotons, and, 
above all, a great ban- 
yan tree, with a girth 
of eighteen yards, whose 
branches and descending 
roots extend to a circum- 
ference of three hundred yards. The same day we visited Kalighat, which 
gave its name to Calcutta, and is situated on the bank of an old bed of the 
Ganges, four miles south of the city. The legend is that when the corpse of 
the goddess Kali, wife of Siva, was cut in pieces by order of the gods, one 
of her fingers fell here, and a temple was raised in her honor. The present 
temple was built three hundred years ago, and renewed in 1809; its priests 
are called " Haldar," and amass great wealth from the daily offerings of pilgrims. 
96 




RELIGIOUS MENDICANT. 



THE BENGAL PRO VINCES. 



There are many festivals, to which immense crowds resort, especially on the second 
day of the Diirja Puja, the great Bengali religious festival in honor of the goddess, 
held at the autumnal equinox. The street off which the temple lies is full of shops 
for the sale of idol pictures, images, and charms. When we arrived, sacrifices were 
being offered in the midst of an excited crowd. In an area before the temple stood 
the priest, and beside him the executioner, sword in hand. We saw three kids and 
two buffaloes sacrificed. The head of the victim is fastened in a wooden vise, its 
body is held up by the hind legs, and the sacrificer strikes with his sword. If the 
head is severed with one stroke, the victim is considered acceptable to the goddess, 
and its blood is collected by the priest, carried into the shrine, and sprinkled upon 
her huge projecting tongue. We could see in the distance the hideous idol within, 
its tongue streaming with blood. If the head of the animal is not severed with the 
first stroke, it is considered unacceptable, and is cast aside. The officiating Brahman, 
almost naked, with the sacred cord round his neck, was a fierce-looking, but very 
shrewd man. He could speak English. We found that he had been, when a boy, 
five years at the Bhowanipore Mission School, and that a near kinsman of his was a 
convert to Christianity and a missionary. Upon my saying, " How can you carry 
on these revolting rites? You know that they are vain, and a pretense," he replied, 
" Yes, I know it ; but the people will have it, and I must get my living." The man 
evidently disbelieved in his heathenism, and might be a professor of Christianity, if 
he saw it would pay. It was strange and saddening to see these bloody, exciting, and 
degfrading- rites amid a huge oratherinor of devotees, within a few miles of English civ- 
ilization and fashion. Only a mile away is the large college and compound of the 
London Mission. Two miles nearer town stands the cathedral of St. Paul, in Gothic 
style, with its library and statue of Bishop Heber. And in the evening the fashion- 
ables of Calcutta, pale and listless, might be seen rolling in gay equipages, in lines 
three deep, across the Maidan, and by 
the shipping along the river-side, and 
eatherinof round the band in the Eden 
Gardens. In the temple area at Kali- 
ohat, around the shrine of Kali, von 
see Hindu caste and idolatry in all 
their proud and devout barbarism ; the 
same day, at evening, in the Eden 
Gardens, around the band, you may 
witness the pomp and vanity of Anglo- 
Indian caste, from the haught}' Col- 
lector, who lives upon the taxes, to the 
industrious tradesman who pays them. 
Brahman and Sudra you find alike in 
both assemblies ; and it is not easy to 
decide which is the more unreasonable 
and inexcusable, the heathen or the 
official pride. 

The Mohammedans of Calcutta 
have a large educational establishment, called the Madrisa, wdiere the pupils are 
instructed in languages and Mohammedan law, and graduate at the Calcutta Uni- 

97 




SERAMPORE COLLEGE. 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

versity. The new theistic sect called the Brahmosomaj has a mandir, or church, for 
the " Progressive Brahmos," as the party headed by K. C. Sen is called. They have 
normal and adult schools, and a small girls' school. The Hindu College, in College 
Square, is a handsome building of the Ionic order. 

Starting one morning early by railway from Sealdah Station, we traveled about 
eighteen miles north to Samnuggur, where we were taken over a cotton factory, 
and found the rooms as airy as in Lancashire, though, of course, hotter. The 




MARTYN S HOME, ALDEEN, SERAMPORE. 



workpeople looked healthy and content. The average wages per month are, for a 
girl, ten shillings ; a woman, sixteen shillings ; a man, thirty-two shillings. The 
Hoogly, which flows close by, is deep and wide, and there is an interesting old 
temple, with beautifully carved stone, in the neighborhood. The view is very 
picturesque, commanding a reach of the river, teeming with rural beauty. Farther 
up are Hugh and Bandel, where is a monastery said to be the oldest in Bengal, 
dating from 1599. Returning to Barrackpore, on the same line, we drove through 
the park, a charming, quiet retreat, not unlike Kew Gardens, on the banks of the 
Hoogly, whither the Viceroy usually comes to spend the Sunday. The house com- 
mands a noble prospect six miles down the river. A short distance off is Lady 
Canning's tomb, which occupies a charming spot on the banks of the river. Her 
98 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

remains have long since been removed to England. The park contains many good 
trees, palms of various kinds, banyan trees, lovely pine-like casuarinas, and graceful 
bamboos. In the neighborhood are the filtering-beds, through which the waters of 
the Ganges pass to supply Calcutta. 

Immediately opposite, on the west bank of the river, is Serampore, — once a 
Danish settlement, — thirteen miles from Calcutta, where are the famous Baptist Col- 
lege and the scenes of the labors of Carey, Marshman, and Ward. Carey landed 
at Calcutta in 1793, and after some struggles for subsistence set up a printing press. 
His colleagues came in 1797; and they would all have been reshipped by the 
authorities, had they not found refuge at Serampore, under the protection of the 
Danish flag. The college is a substantial building, with a noble staircase, and 
possesses a fine library, in which is an interesting collection of Bibles in Oriental 
languages, and some valuable manuscripts. One of Carey's, a ployglot dictionary 
of Sanscrit words, with the corresponding word in six languages, is beautifully 
Avritten, and shows the toil and perseverance of its author. The burial-ground is 
about half a mile distant, where lie the mortal remains of Carey, Ward, and Marsh, 
man. Carey's tomb has this inscription : 

William Carey. 

Born, 17th August, 1761 ; 

Died, 9th June, 1834. 

A guilty, weak, and helpless worm, 
On Thy kind arms I (all. 

The tombs of all three missionaries have domes, supported on pillars ; but the 
ground has the air of neglect and decay, and the wall near Carey's tomb is broken 
down. We next drove to the Danish church in which Carey preached. It is now 
in the hands of the Establishment. Near the mission chapel a large jute factory 
has been erected. Not far off, on the river side, at Aldeen, stood the pagoda where 
another eminent missionary, Henry Martyn, took up his abode on his arrival in 
India in the year 1806, and where he spent many hours in learning Hindustani and 
translating portions of the Scriptures. It is a picturesque spot. He thus speaks 
of it in his journal : " The habitation assigned me by Mr. Brown is a pagoda in 
his grounds, on the edge of the river. Thither I retired at night, and really felt 
something like superstitious dread at being in a place once inhabited, as it were, by 
devils ; but yet felt disposed to be triumphantly joyful, that the temple where they 
were worshiped was become Christ's Oratory. I prayed out aloud to my God, and 
the echoes returned from the vaulted roof. Oh ! may I so pray that the dome of 
heaven may resound ! I like my dwelling much, it is so retired and free from noise ; 
it has so many recesses and cells that I can hardly find my way in and out." The 
building has in part been washed away by the river. 

Serampore has a calm and cheerful aspect, with its clean, shady roads. It is a 
pleasant suburban retreat, but factories are gaining ground, and the mission has the 
air of decay. Carey's Botanical Garden of six acres, which contained three thousand 
species of plants and trees, is now jungle, and has recently been sold for business 
purposes. There is a considerable silk manufacture here. It is sad to see the scenes 
of many 3'ears of Christian labor, and the fruits of missionary enterprise associated 
with revered names, thus on the decline. The headquarters of the mission, it should 

99 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 



however, be remembered, have been removed to Calcutta, Twelve miles farther on 
is the French settlement of Chandernagore, dating from 1688, pleasantly situated on 
the river side. It consists of a long row of white buildings interspersed with trees. 
But, as has been quaintly said, " it looks a little out at elbows, and has about it a 
shabby genteel sort ..„^^^ 



iiLfiiij 












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All depend for 



fjj 
air. 

Assam, with its 
capital Shillong, in 
the Khasi Hills, in- 
cludes the fertile 
Brahmaputra valley, 
with its rich black 
soil. Its hills in the \ 
east contain lime- / 
stone and coal beds, c 
and tea is largelj^ 
cultivated on their '.' > 
lower slopes. The 
population is four 
millions, chiefly Hin- 
dus and Mohammedans, 
their livelihood upon agriculture, and the 
staple crop is rice. The climate is very 
humid, and fogs often rise from the river. 

Darjeeling, " Holy Spot," as the word 
signifies, the hill station nearest to Cal- 
cutta, lies north about four hundred miles. 
The Eastern Bengal Railway runs in a 
northerly direction for about a hundred 
miles over the plains of Bengal, in about five 
hours, to Damookdea on the Ganges. It 
passes near Krishnuggur, a town of forty 
thousand inhabitants, where the Church 
Mission has its headquarters for the district ; 
and thirty miles west is Plassey, where 
Clive won, in 1757, the memorable victory 
from which virtually dates the British 
supremacy in North India. A large steam 

ferry conveyed us across the Ganges from Damookdea in forty minutes. It is a 
perilous passage, owing to the strong current and the shoals ; two men were taking 
soundings, one on each side the vessel, all the way across. At Sara Ghat, we again 
entered the train, and traveled all night, two hundred miles, stopping at many sta- 
tions, till we reached the temporary terminus, Silliguri, at about 10 a. m. Here, with 
much difficulty, and after some hours' delay, we obtained wretched ponies to take us 
on to Kursiong, half-way to Darjeeling ; but our ponies traveled so slowly across the 
Serai, or swamp of low-lying jungle, the seat of malarious fever, which forms a 
deadly belt along the foot of the hills across the north of India, separating the 




ON THE WAY TO THE HIMALAYAS. 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

Himalayas, that darkness came on before we began to ascend, and we rode in faith 
along the road, which at the time was undergoing repair, till we reached the Dak 
Bungalow of Chambattie, where we put up for the night.' 

The Dak Bungalow is an Inn, or Rest House, provided by Government for 
travelers, one-storied, with verandas, often perched on a knoll ; with scanty furniture 
and scantier fare. It is in charge of a native called a Khansamah, who locks it up 
when empty, and appears on the ground to open it when you call. A tariff of prices, 
— very moderate, — a list of rules, a list of articles provided, and a carefully drawn map 
of the district hang on the walls. After some delay we got candles and chocolate 
and bread ; but it was too late to procure the usual repast of roast fowl, or " sudden 
death," as this dish is called in the East, the creature being usually killed and dressed 




TRAVELLR r. iiLNc.ALUi 



within half-an-hour of your arrival. We turned in, after giving directions to the 
khansamah to look after our ponies, and to prepare an early morning meal. The 
silence of the hills was impressive : here and there a firefly; here and there, across 
the valley, or through the trees, the twinkle of the light in a native hut. 

At daybreak next morning we were again in the saddle, and rode ten miles, over 
lovely hills with wooded sides and varied ravines, clad in forest and brushwood, to 
Kursiong. The views were fine, and the verdure beautiful. The air was delightfully 
clear and cool, and peasants of the native tribes were passing to their work along the 
mountain, paths. Kursiong is four thousand six hundred feet above the sea, a village 
perched on the ridge of a hill ; and here we had our first sight of the Himalayas. 
Kinchinjunga, the second highest of the range, twenty-eight thousand feet, was full in 
view, though sixty miles away. The sight was grand and impressive. The air be- 
came more keen and bracing, and after the refreshment of breakfast in a comfortable 
inn, we mounted fresh ponies and started on the remaining twenty miles. The road 
is lovely in the extreme, skirting the flanks and rounding the spurs of the mountains, 



' The time from Calcutta to Darjeeling, 379 miles, is now about twenty-four hours, all rail. — [Ed. 



103 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 



carried by bridges over deep ravines with roaring torrents, and adorned with luxuriant 
tropical vegetation, splendid orchids, graceful tree-ferns, flowering creepers, and noble 
trees. After crossing the ridge called " the Saddle," we came through the barracks 
used as a convalescent depot, and rode on to the delightfully placed lodgings which 
we had beforehand engaged, distant just fifteen minutes' walk from the Observatory 
Hill and the Mall, and with the sublime snows towering high before us — a spot 
much frequented by Calcutta officials during the hot season. 

At sunrise on Sunday morning I walked round the Mall and up to the Observa- 
tory, which commands a full view of the 
stupendous scenery. Never did I under- 
stand so fully the force of the apostle's 
expression, " depth and height," as now 
that I had before me the giant mountains, 
and looked down into the depths, deeper 
and deeper still, six thousand feet, into 
the forest-clad ravine of the Great Ranjit 
river, and then slowly raised my eyes 
higher and higher, through the successive 
ridges of foliage and rocks, till they 
reached the eternal snows, and still far 
up and up to the peaks soaring into the 
sky. From the lowest point which the 
eye can reach in the Ranjit valley to the 
highest peak of Kinchinjunga, the verti- 
cal height is not less than five miles- — such 
a thickness of the earth's crust being pro- 
bably nowhere else visible on the earth's 
surface. More than twelve peaks can be 
counted which rise above twenty thousand 
feet. The air was cold and bracing, the 
grass was crisp and white with frost ; 
the sun shot his raj's across in dazzling 
splendor, and in the stillness and bright- 
ness of the scene one felt as if transported 
to another world. After morning service 
in the little English church, I went down to the square bazaar, or market-place, 
which is crowded on Sundays with strange nationalities. Here were the old 
aborigines, the Lepchas, with Mongolian type of face, oblique eyes, high cheek-bones, 
clad in striped cotton garments ; the men with pigtails like the Chinese, the women 
with nose-rings and large silver ornaments, some with strings of rupees. They are 
a small, plain, but powerful-looking race, inured to hardship, nomadic, but amiable. 
Their besetting sin is gambling. They are a merry and careless people, with but lit- 
tle thought of the morrow. They are very fond of quoits, using pieces of slate for 
the purpose, which they throw with great dexterity. They always wear a long knife, 
curved like a sickle and stuck in the girdle, which serves them to fell trees, skin ani- 
mals, build huts, pare their nails, sever their food, and even pick their teeth. Rice 
is their staple food. Their language is a Thibetan dialect, and their religion a cor- 
rupt Buddhism. 




HIMALAYA HII.L GIRL. 




t4 
< 



•J 



o 



THE BENGAL FROi^JNCES. 

Here, too, in large numbers, were the Bhooteas, tall and robust, sturdy, flat- 
faced people, weather-beaten, with broad mouths and flat noses ; their complexion 
whitish yellow, but incrusted with dirt, and tar, and smoke. They seldom wash. 
They are dressed in loose blankets, girt about the waist with a leather belt, in which 
they place their brass pipes, their long knives, chopsticks, tinder-box, tobacco-pouch, 
and tweezers, with which they pluck away all trace of beard. They wear stout 
woven boots— boot and stocking in one. The women have their faces tarred, and 
their hair is plaited in two tails, the neck loaded with strings of coral and amber, 
large, heavy, round earrings dragging down the lobe of the ear. They are always 
spinning. The Bhooteas are Buddhists, and believe in the efficacy of praying- 
machines. When crossing mountains they hang little scraps of rag on the bushes, 
as a prayer for safety, and place grains of rice along the hill-side to propitiate evil 
spirits They bury their dead on the mountains, raising cairns over them. 

Here, again, one might see the light and agile Nepalese, with intelligent and 
pleasing countenances, active and enduring, and brave to a degree, as the Nepal 
war of 1816 witnesses. Their secluded valleys are rich in forest and minerals, and 
on the frontier indigo is largely grown. Their dogs are yellow-fanged, wolf-like, 
fierce, surly creatures, but invaluable watch-dogs. Nepal proper is a small valley 
twelve miles by nine at the foot of this part of the Himalayan range, but the country 
extends west from Sikkim to Kumaon. The ruling race are called Ghurkas. Here 
Buddhism and Vaishnavism are found side by side. The temples are of wood, and 
remind one of those of Japan. The temple of Mahadeva at Patan presents both 
styles of architecture, the Hindu and the Thibetan, or Turanian, side by side. The 
capital of Nepal is Khatmandu, and contains a beautiful temple in the Chinese style. 
The view of the Himalayas to the northeast is very grand. The ragged Lama 
mendicant is also to be met with, and Sherbas and Thibetan beggars, jovial, but 
easily excited. Intermingled with these native mountain tribes were stolid China- 
men, proud Mohammedans, and graceful Hindus. In the midst of the bustle and 
bartering, the missionary had his open room, or shed, into which the people came to 
hear hymn, or prayer, or Scripture. In the Bhootea village there is a small, dirty 
Buddhist temple called Bhootea Bustee. The Lamas, or priests, are also of a low 
type — unctuous, sly, insolent. They sell praying-machines and use them in their 
worship, continually turning them round. Indeed, you enter the temple between 
two huge cylinders, like pillars, two feet in diameter and six feet high, which are 
gigantic praying-machines, turned by means of a winch. Here we met many Thibet- 
ans returning to their country with heavy burdens. 

Rising one morning while it was yet dark and starlight, we mounted our ponies, 
and, with guides, started for the ascent of the Si.xxhal Mountain, eight thousand 
three hundred feet, six miles from Darjeeling. Riding through the military sana- 
torium to " the Saddle," or Johr Bungalow, we began the ascent up a steep winding 
track through the jungle, and after an hour's climb reached the Chimneys — the ruins 
of the first military station — perched upon a ridge, or shoulder, of Sinchal, where 
Kinchinjunga and its neighbor peaks burst on our view, kindled with the rays of 
the rising sun. The air was perfectly clear, and the sky cloudless. Here we dis- 
mounted, and scrambled through brushwood and snow to the summit, which is 
specially celebrated because of the glorious "prospect it commands— the sweep of 
the Himalayan range, including Everest itself, the presiding monarch of them all, 

107 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 



the highest mountain in the world. There he rose to our view, of sugarloaf shape, 
far off, but clear cut against the sky. The entire range, " Pelion on Ossa piled," 
was now before us as far as the eye could reach in a clear atmosphere and a cloudless 
sky. It was like looking from a Pisgah across the valleys and over mountains to a 




PALACE AND TEMPLE, KHATMANUU, NEPAL. 

new and loftier country. Here one is overwhelmed with the majesty of Nature and 
the power of the Almighty. The deep blue sky, the pure white snows, the clear-cut 
precipices, the dark, shady ravines, the dense primeval forests, all impress the spec- 
tator with the presence of God. Having filled the eye and mind with the sublimity 
of a prospect never to be forgotten during two hours spent on that green, but now 
frost-whitened mountain, we reluctantly descended to the shoulder where our ponies 
were, and returned thankful and exultant that we had been so favored in the 
weather ; for these grandeurs are often enveloped in mist or cloud for days 
together. The annual average rainfall at Darjeeling is nine feet eight inches — one 
hundred and sixteen inches — June to September being the wettest months. 
1 08 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 







■M 






The descent from Darjeeling to the Ranjit river, which separates it from the 
Himalayan range, is six thousand feet in eleven miles, and the river is crossed by 
one of those cane bridges which are peculiar to this part of the world. The main 
chains supporting the bridge are branches of trees and rattan canes ; the sides are 
of split canes, hanging from each main chain, two feet apart. Into these loops the 
foot-path is laid, composed of three bamboos, the thickness of a man's arm, laid 
side by side, the section of the bridge resembling the letter V, in the angle or base 
of which tiie traveler finds footing. 

The piers' of these bridges are gene- ' ,' - Vv, A 

rally two«;onvenient trees through 
whose branches the main chains are 
passed and pegged into the ground 
beyond. Only one traveler can pass 
over at a time, and the spring 
and oscillation are considerable, but 
strong bamboos are placed under- 
neath and connected with the main 
chains by split rattan ropes to pre- 
vent the bridge from collapsing with 
the weisfht. 

At the lower edo^e of the orreat 
forest which clothes the Sinchal lies 
a botanical garden, lonely and lovely, 
the Rungaroon Garden, where wt- 
found roses, scarlet geraniums, ver- 
benas, and many English plants and 
flowers in the midst of tropical lux- 
uriance. The garden is to be de- 
voted to such indigenous plants, 
epiphytes, orchids, and gingers, which 
are not likely to thrive in the moister 
and more shady forest sections. The 
path leading to this spot is rich in 
forest beauty. Beyond are some of 
the tea and cinchona plantations for which Darjeeling is famous, and which, as the 
slopes are cleared, mar in some degree the beauty of the nearer hills. The tea 
gardens are laid out in the most unromantic fashion, acre upon acre planted with 
straight rows of bushes, two feet high, with small glazed dark green leaves, and in the 
center the manager's bungalow, flanked by long ranges of low buildings, where the 
process of drying, sorting, and packing is carried on. The Bhootea coolies, both men 
and women, may be seen carrying chests of immense weight up the steepest hills. 
They leave the railway porters of England far behind. A story is told that one of 
these sturdy women actually brought up a grand piano on her back from Kursiong 
to the station. The work on the plantations is not so laborious. It consists mainly 
in deep hoeing between the lines of trees as weeds appear, and careful hand weed- 
ing. In November of the third year, when the plant is four feet high, it is pruned 
down to twenty inches, that the young leaves may be plucked easily ; and six weeks 

109 




,?J'/":'-'V./-,.<r ■ - 



DANDY TRAVELING, HIMALAYAS. 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

afterward, when the tea plant is said to "flush," or throw out new shoots six inches 
high, the picking is repeated, and so on at intervals of twenty days for eight months. 
Tea can be made only of these young and tender leaves, and the plucking requires 
gentle touch, women and children being employed. For sorting, rolling, dryinpv 
etc., machinery is generally used. 










BRIDGE OVER THE RANJIT RIVER, DARJEELING. 



The cinchona (quinine) plantations in the Darjeeling district cover nearly two 
thousand acres, stocked with about three million cinchona trees. The quinine 
comes from the bark. Ouinidine, or cinchonidine, chiefly from the red cinchona, is 
a good substitute for quinine. It is produced in large quantities, and is obtainable 
at a much more moderate cost. 

Language cannot describe the glory of the Himalayas seen from Darjeeling lit 
up by the rays of the setting sun. From the Observatory more than twelve peaks 
can be counted, which rise above twenty thousand feet, and none are below fifteen 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

thousand. Against the azure sky, in an atmosphere far clearer than we ever see in 
England, the snowy range reflects the colors of the sunset, ever changing and 
deepening in richness from bright yellow to pink, from pink to crimson, and long 
after the sun has set to us. One writer speaks of the view as " something to be 
treasured as one of the most noteworthy moments of his life"; and another of "the 
deep happiness of a sojourn in this enchanted land, sentineled by the everlasting 
mountains." And the contrast from these " abodes of snow," to the luxuriant 




RAILWAV TRAVELING. 



tropical vegetation surrounding us on every hand, clothing the richly wooded hills 
through which we drive, is hardly less striking and impressive. The natives are 
loth to stir early, for they feel the morning cold, and are ill prepared against it as to 
clothing ; but with the Himalayas now bright with the rising sun we succeeded in 
starting by Tonga Dak, a sort of dog-cart, at 8 a. m., reaching Kursiong at ii a. m. and 
Sillijuri in time for'the evening train. The transition — as we drove along from snow 
and frost to firs and oaks, then to rhododendrons, india-rubber trees, tree-ferns of 
immense size, golden ferns with. stems three feet high, and wondrous orchids, white, 
yellow, and purple ; banks studded with stag-moss and yellow calceolarias, scented 
masfnolia and maofnificent bamboos — elves an exhilaration and excitement not to be 
had to the same extent in any other part of the world. 

The East Indian Railway runs northwest from Calcutta up the Ganges valley 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

nine hundred and fifty-four miles to Dellii ; and at Delhi it meets the Scinde Punjab 
and Indus Valley State Railways, which complete the iron road by Lahore away 
still northward to Peshawar, and southward to Karachi, that important and rising 
port at the mouth of the Indus, one thousand one hundred and sixty-nine miles from 
Delhi. Thus the railway journey across India from Calcutta to Karachi is two 
thousand one hundred and twenty-three miles, and from Calcutta to Bombay, 
branching south from Allahabad, is fourteen hundred and nine miles. The River 
GangeSj with its tributaries, drains an area of three hundred and ninety thousand 




GRAIN SELLERS. 



square miles, including the Lower Provinces of Bengal, the Northwest Provinces, 
and Oude. Here the Aryan race, entering from the northwest, attained their full 
strength and development. Hindi, Hindustani, or Bengali is their language, with 
the written character called Nagari, resembling the ancient Sanscrit. The popula- 
tion is estimated at sixty millions. Their life is for the most part a struggle for 
existence by the tillage of the soil — rice, plantains, cocoanuts, and the cultivation of 
indigo, hemp, cotton, and the opium poppy. The land is not, as in England, 
parceled out into farms. There are wealthy proprietors, who hold large tracts by 
grant, purchase, or hereditary succession ; but the tenants are literally children of 
the soil. Wherever a village nestles among its plantains or mango groves, the land 
is parceled out among the villagers. The villagers or immediate cultivators of soil 
are called ryots. The land-owners are called zamindai's. A large proprietor does 
not reckon up his farms, but he counts his villages. Often between the zamindars 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

and the ryots there are middle-men or \&?i%(t-\\o\di<tr%, patnidars, who are sometimes 
indigo planters. Having got the village on lease, you summon the tenants, show 
them their rent account, and get them to agree to cultivate a certain percentage of 
the land in indigo. The compact being made, the ryots are your slaves forever. 
The sowing of every year goes to pay the debt of the last, and the debt must be 
paid off by so many bundles of the indigo plant. The planter's bungalow is a fine- 
looking house, with an immense compound. In front of it is the factory, and at 
some distance miserable huts in which the coolies live.^ In the cultivation of the 
land, bullocks are used for draught and carriage. The Bengal plow is much the 
same as the Greek or Roman one. "The English have no idea," says Sir J. B 



mAMf^^ 




BULLOCK CARRIAGE. 



Phear, " of the extreme poverty of the bulk of the Bengal population. Seven 
rupees a month will support a whole family. Food is the principal item, and prob- 
ably one rupee eight annas a month will suffice to feed an adult man, and twelve 
annas a woman." Yet the salt tax alone averages annually a hundred and twelve 
annas per head upon the entire population. " Famine," says another experienced 
writer, " is the horizon of the Indian villager; insufficient food is the foreground. 
And this is the more extraordinary, since the villager is surrounded by a dreamland 
of plenty. Everywhere you see fields flooded deep with millet and wheat. The 
village and its old trees have to climb on to a knoll to keep their feet out of the 
glorious poppy and the luscious sugar-cane. Sumptuous cream-colored bullocks 
move sleepily about with an air of luxurious sloth. Everything is steeped in repose. 
The bees murmur their idylls among the flowers ; the doves moan their amorous 

' Any one who would learn what Indian village life is, should read Bengal Peasant Life, by the Rev. L. B. Day ; and The 
Aryan Village, by Sir J. B. Phear. 

113 



THE BENGAL PRO VINCES. 



complaints from the shady leafage of pipal trees; out of the cool recesses of wells 
the idle cooing of the pigeons ascends into the summer-laden air ; the rainbow-fed 
chameleon slumbers on the branch ; the enameled beetle on the leaf ; the little fish 
. is in the sparkling depths below ; the radiant kingfisher, tremulous as sunlight, in 
mid-air ; and the peacock, with furled glories, on the temple tower of the silent gods. 
Amid this easeful and luscious splendor the villager labors and starves. While he 
has to maintain the glorious phantasmagoria of an imperial policy, while he has to 

support legions of scarlet 
soldiers, golden cuprassies, 
purple politicals, and green 
commissions, he must re- 
main the huno-er-stricken, 
over-driven phantom that 
he is."' What with income 
tax, license tax, succession 
tax, salt tax, feast tax, and 
fast tax, his hookah — his 
" hubble-bubble," so called 
from the gurgling noise of 
the water inside the cocoa- 
nut-shell — is his only solace 
amid the privations of his 
wretched life. When he 
would protest, he dies of 
famine ; this is his revenge. 
Through this vast dis- 
trict the railroad now wends 
its way. Before it came 
along the great trunk road 
travelers were often at- 
tacked, robbed, and even 
murdered in the days of 
Thug notoriety. The 
Thugs, who abounded 
chiefly in the forests, were 
fanatics, who made highway 
robbery part of their religion, and declared that their victims were sacrifices to 
the goddess Kali. Disguised as peaceful travelers, they would first engage in 
simple and friendly greeting, looking gentle and unassuming, and then suddenly 
they would throw the handkerchief-noose round the neck of the wayfarer, strangle 
him in a moment, and rifle him of all he possessed. Sometimes a girl appeared 
sitting at the wayside weeping. The traveler, in pity, might stop to speak to 
her ; but if so he was doomed. She soon had the noose round his throat and 
strangled him on the spot. Since 1 830 Thuggism has been suppressed, but the instinct 
possesses the thieves still, and the sight of the noose will cause the calm features to 
blaze with fury. In the school of industry at Jabalpur, some aged Thugs, proud of 

' Twenty-one Days in India, by G. A. Mackay. 
114 




THUGS. 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

their race and profession, may still be seen. A visitor, anxious to understand their 
mode of strangling, submitted his neck to be operated upon, but at the great risk of 
his life ; for with the kindling instinct of the Thug, the illustration threatened, in 
another moment to become a reality. Datura poisoning is still practiced by the 
same class of people. An old man and his son were lately poisoned for the sake of 
a new blanket by a gang of Thugs. The railroad now conveys us in ease and 
security over these vast plains. About a hundred and twenty miles from Calcutta 
we pass through Ranigunge, where there is the largest and most important coalfield 
in India. The miners are Bhowries and Sontals, low of stature, and great toilers, 




TRAVELING WAGONS. 



the former using the pick, the latter only the crowbar in getting the coal. The mines 
are not deep, and they are free from fire-damp. In this district is Parasnath, the 
highest peak in Bengal proper, four thousand six hundred feet above the sea. It is 
a place of great sanctity to the Jains, who make yearly pilgrimages hither, and who 
strongly opposed the sanatorium for sick soldiers, now erected on it. The mountain 
commands a grand panorama of the surrounding country, with its winding rivers and 
its wooded hills. The Sontals have made their way north to Raj Mahal, where by 
industry they have established themselves. Their villages are quite distinct and sep- 
arate from those occupied by Hindus. 

The chord line carries us between Chotia Nagpur on the south, and Behar on 
the north. Chotia Nagpur is a mountainous province inhabited chiefly by Dravidian 
tribes, the Kols and Oraons, among whom the Lutheran missionaries labored suc- 
cessfully for many years. It is a succession of high tablelands called Pats, three 
thousand feet above the sea. In Behar we have the Patna district, which is famous 



115 



THE BENGAL PROVINCES. 

for its rice, and the Gaya district, famous for its Buddhist remains. Behar, 
indeed, is the cradle of Buddhism, and the name is only a corruption of Vihara, 
a cave or temple. Near Gaya is the site of the famous Bo-tree, under which 
Gautama Buddha taught ; and the Elephant Rock, on which he sat with his dis- 
ciples, is still pointed out. Here it was that Gautama learnt that the path to salva- 
tion lay not in penance and self-torture, but in preaching a higher life to his fellow- 
men. Here he became " the Buddha," the Enlightened, and began a ministry of 
love that lasted till his death at the age of eighty. In front of the Bo-tree is the 
Buddh Gaya Temple, dating from the seventh century, and the Buddh Gaya rails are 
supposed to be the oldest Hindu sculptures hitherto found. There are several groups 
of cave temples, more or less ruined, in the neighborhood, and bearing date from 
Asoka, B. c. 250. Hindu pilgrims come hither to adore the footprint of Vishnu on a 
rock. Shraddhas, i. e., offerings in honor of departed relatives, are performed here 
at the Vishnu-pada temple, situated on one of the ridges and built of black stone 
with a lofty dome and golden pinnacle. Various offerings are placed by the pilgrims 
around the footprint, the object being to help the progress of the souls of ancestors 
departed to heaven, and the time occupied in the rites being at least eight days. 




COLGONG ROCKS, GANGES. 



116 




iMuHA.MMt-JjAN bcHuoL, ALLAHAl;AJJ. 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



BENARES, THE HOLY CITY THE MUTINY CITIES: LUCKNOW AND CAWNPORE- 

MOHAMMEDAN CITIES : AGRA AND ALLAHABAD. 



-THE 



HOW pleasant, after a long, wearisome railway journey of five hundred miles 
across the plains of Bengal, on reaching the terminus opposite the great 
stronghold of heathenism, Benares, the sacred city of the Hindus, with the mighty 
Ganges flowing between, to find Christians and friends waiting to receive you. So 
was it with us when, on our arrival, a saycc, or footman, from the mission, conducted 
us across the bridge of boats and through the city four miles to the European 
settlement and to our hotel ; and when presently that eminent Oriental scholar and 
missionary, the Rev. M. A. Sherring, whose premature death has since been an- 
nounced, came to welcome and to guide us in our plans for sightseeing. Having 
crossed the Ganges, we were now in the Northwest Provinces, and in the head- 
quarters of idolatry in India. What Jerusalem is to the Jew, what Rome is to the 
Latin, what Mecca is to the Mohammedan, Benares is to the Hindu. It contains 
fourteen hundred Hindu temples, idols innumerable, and twenty thousand Brah- 
mans. Like Paul at Athens, the Christian's spirit is moved within him as he sees 
the city wholly given to idolatry. Troops of pilgrims are continually thronging its 
streets, and swarming up and down its ghats, or flights of steps leading down to the 
Ganges, along which the city stretches for three miles, rising gracefully upon the 
solitary cli£f, up the face of which it is built tier upon tier. 

Iiq 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 






In Benares we see what Hinduism practically is. Students of the Vedas may 
restrict the term Brahmanism " to the purely pantheistic and not necessarily idol- 
atrous system evolved by the Brahmans out of the partly monotheistic, partly poly- 
theistic, partly pantheistic religion " expressed in those sacred songs. But it is the 

polytheistic element which has become 
its life and soul, embodied as this is in 
the Hinduism of India. Hinduism is, in 
fact, idolatry of the basest kind, the wor- 
ship of Vishmi, the preserver, and Siva, 
the destroyer, represented by numberless 
idols and symbols of the most revolting 
character. Here in the Northwest Prov- 
inces, and above all in Benares, Hindu- 
ism has acquired a stony compactness, 
and a solidity almost impenetrable. Here 
Brahmanism and caste hold sway. The 
Hindustani — stalwart, tall, strong-limbed, 
independent, solid — proudly rests on his 
good breed, good blood, and the associa- 
tions of antiquity. He adores the social 
hierarchy ; and all the great events of 
life — births, marriages, deaths, occupa- 
tions, professions — are interlaced and en- 
chained with the overgrown fabric of his 
idolatry. And Benares is the center of 
all this. It is a very ancient city, and is 
frequently alluded to in early Sanscrit 
literature. For the sanctity of its in- 
habitants, of its temples and reservoirs, 
of its wells and streams, Benares has been 
famed for thousands of j-ears. Here, to 
quote the high authority of the lamented 
Rev. M. A. Sherring, " Idolatry is a 
charm, a fascination, to the Hindu. It 
is, so to speak, the air he breathes. It 
is the food of his soul. He is sub- 
dued, enslaved, befooled by it. The 
nature of the Hindu partakes of the supposed nature of the gods whom he wor- 
ships. And what is that nature? According to the traditions handed about 
among the natives, and constantly dwelt upon in their conversation, and referred 
to in their popular songs — ^which, perhaps, would be sufificient proof — yet more 
especially according to the numberless statements and narratives found in their 
sacred writings, on which these traditions are based, it is, in many instances, vile 
and abominable to the last degree. Idolatry is a word denoting all that is wicked 
in imagination and impure in practice. Idolatry is a demon — an incarnation of all 
evil — but nevertheless as bewitching: and seductive as a siren. It ensnares the 
depraved heart, coils around it like a serpent, transfixes it with its deadly fangs, and 




A VISHNUVITE FAKIR. 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

filially stings it to death." This is the testimony of a Sanscrit scholar who knew 
the Vedas well, and who lived thirty years among the Hindus, at the headquarters 
of Hinduism. 

'One Sunday morning at seven, we drove outside the city to the Church Mission 
compound, and as we approached saw the native children of the girls' and orphans' 
schools walking in procession into church, all neatly dressed, and in excellent order, 
so that you might imagine you were not in Benares, but in some English country 
parish. The bell was tolling for service, and entering we found a goodly gathering 
of Hindus. The service was read and the sermon preached in the native language. 
The houses of the missionaries are within the large compound, which looked refresh- 
ingly green and shaded with trees. Afterward, at the London Mission compound, 
which is more within the city, we found a small native congregation. Missions have 
been prosecuted here now for sixty years by various societies; but little perceptible 
impression has been made upon the citadel of heathenism. A faithful witnessing 
for Jesus is maintained, but the converts are few. Conversions belong to God ; and 
nothing so tests and testifies the strength of the laborer's faith and zeal and love as 
persevering labor without apparent results. During the week I visited the London 
Missionary College, where four hundred native young men and boys are educated. 
And as I went from class-room to class-room, filled with scholars learning not only 
their native Hindustani, but Sanscrit, Arabic, and English, as well as arithmetic, 
mathematics, chemistry; as I sat in the head-master's room — Mr. Sherring's — and 
found him at work teaching the Scriptures to a class of intelligent-looking young 
men, all natives ; as I spoke to them in English, and heard their shrewd questions 
and answers, I felt that certainly a powerful influence here is working and multiplying, 
shedding light upon many minds, awakening intellectual freedom, and producing a 
moral and religious life, before which idolatry must eventually totter and fall. 

Taking time by the forelock, and gladly seizing the cool of early morning, we 
started next day, under Mr. Sherring's conduct, to see the sights. And first we visited 
the mansion of the Maharajah of Vizianagram, furnished in European style, and 
showing the inroads of Western civilization. Not far from this is the Durga Temple, 
at the southern extremity of the city. Bloody sacrifices are offered to the goddess 
Durga, or Kali, in front of her shrine every Tuesday. The temple swarms with red- 
dish-brown monkeys in every nook, along every wall, and about the streets and 
bazars. These monkeys are all regarded as living deities, gods and goddesses, and 
of greater sanctity far than the poor people living round about who are annoyed by 
them. Hinduism, instead of tracing men to monkeys like Darwinism, raises monkeys 
to be gods, a step higher than men. Proceeding to the Dasasamed Ghat, we left 
our carriage and ascended the Man-Mandil Observatory, containing several large 
astronomical instruments erected by the Rajah Say Singh in 1693. Here there is a 
beautifully-carved oriel window, commanding a fine view of the river. The Rajah 
Si Bahadur received us with politeness. Close by is the temple of the rain god, sup- 
posed to exercise power over the clouds in procuring rain. The idol is placed in a 
cistern low down in the center of the temple, and kept drenched with water. The 
Nepalese temple, rising from the banks of the Ganges near the Man-Mandil Ghat, is 
a strikingly picturesque object, and is now the only Buddhist temple in Benares. 

The Dasasamed Ghat is one of the five celebrated places of pilgrimage in 
Benares. Here we saw one of those religious devotees called Fakirs, who live upon 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



charity and obtain a reputation for sanctity by abstinence, retaining the body in one 
position, and imposing severe penances upon themselves. They suiTer their hair to 
grow in long, sliaggy locks, sometimes reaching to the ground, and their austerities 
are resfarded with reverence and admiration. At the Burning- Ghat, whither a boat 
conveyed us, there lay a corpse with wood piled round it, prepared for cremation, 

and another funeral pile, with its smold- 
ering embers just burnt out. Funeral 
rites are continually going on here ; 
for many come to Benares as the goal 
of their hope and life on purpose to 
die. Several pairs of short slabs set 
up on end, called stitiee, mark the spots 
where widows have been burnt alive on 
the pyre of their husbands. The word 
stUtee means " chaste or faithful wo- 
man." The custom was prohibited by 
the government in 1829; but these 
spots are still the objects of worship. 

Our boat conveyed us next to the 
steps dividing the city along the river 
into two equal portions and leading 
up to the famous Well of Salvation. 
At the top this well is twenty yards 
long and ten wide, and flights of steps 
slope down the four sides, like a pyra- 
mid reversed, to a narrow trough of 
water at the bottom in which devotees 
were standing, washing face and head, 
and sipping the fetid water from their 
hands. It is believed that this well, 
filled with the sweat of Vishnu, infalli- 
bly washes away all sin. The water is 
disgustingly dirty, as though it held in 
solution the sins it washed away. Near 
this well is the temple of Ganesh, the 
god of wisdom, represented as a fig- 
ure painted red, with three eyes and 
an elephant's trunk, over which a 
cloth is drawn, like that which a barber wraps about a man before shaving 
him. At the feet of the god is the figure of a rat, the animal on which he is sup- 
posed to ride. Passing the Rajah of Nagpore's Ghat, where the massive masonry 
has given way, we saw swarms of people streaming down the several stairs and along 
the bathing platforms as we sailed slowly past ; and very picturesque they looked, 
some bathing, some praying, some dressing, and multitudes going up and coming 
down. Leaving the boat at the needle-like minarets which strike the eye in every 
view of Benares, and appear in almost every photograph, we climbed first the long, 
broad flight of steps, and then the narrow, winding staircase inside the minaret, and 




INDIAN FAKfR. 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

obtained from the summit (three hundred feet above the river) a wide view of the 
city and the surrounding country. The mosque, with its strong and deep founda- 
tions, and its exquisitely graceful minarets, was built by Aurangzeb, a bigot and a 
persecutor, the last, the most cruel, intolerant, and hated of the Moguls, 1658-1707. 
He imprisoned his father. Shah Jahan, murdered his brothers, imposed the /iziah, a 
religious tax, on every one not Mohammedan, destroyed Hindu temples, and built 




BENARES. 



mosques out of the materials ; in particular, this at Benares, still the most conspicuous 
object, towering over all the temples of Brahmanism. 

Traversing the narrow streets on foot, the only way in which they can be traversed, 
for nearly a mile, we next visited the famous temple of the police deity of the city, 
kotwal, symbolized by a huge truncheon of stone, called dandpan, four feet high, 
which is worshiped by many people every week. In front of it, priests with rods of 
peacock feathers were inflicting very gentle vicarious punishment upon the worshipers. 
Walking through the quarter of the city devoted to the manufacture of Benares 
brasswork, where you see boys hammering the patterns with a small punch, we 
reached the Golden Temple, dedicated to the god Bisheshwar, or Siva, whose image 
is the Imgani, a plain conical stone set on end. This is the reigning deity of Benares, 

123 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

and this is its chief temple in the city. As you approach it from the north you pass 
through a court where is a large collection of images, chiefly linga, male and female 
emblems. They are from the ruins of the older temple Avhich Aurangzeb destroyed. 
They are all objects of worship and bear marks of adoration — garlands of flowers, 




TOPE AT SARNATH. 



oil, and paint. Before the central lingam you see the Hindu worshipers prostrat- 
ing themselves ; and this worship is the center and culmination of Brahmanism in 
India. This temple, like all the Benares temples, is of a mean and dirty aspect, but 
it is surmounted by a gilded tower and dome glittering in the sun, fifty feet high. 
Adjoining is the " Well of Knowledge," giving forth a loathsome stench. The spec- 
tator turns away from all with pain, horror, and disgust. 

The great sight of Benares is, after all, its river front in the early morning, when 
the rays of sunrise flood the city with brightness, and its inhabitants bathe in their 
124 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



sacred river. Seated on the deck of a large river boat, called a dingee, we floated 
slowly along with the lazy tide, watching the panorama of human life and devotion. 
Men, women, and children of all ages were crowding the ghats and performing their 
ablutions in the yellow flood, as a daily act of refreshment, of purification, and of re- 
ligion ; worshiping the river, basking in the sun, bottling up vessels of the sacred 
water for purifying purposes at home, and then going to the priests to have painted 
on their shining foreheads the distinctive marks of their caste. Above the motley 
crowd rose the towering temples and the mosques, tinted with red or burnished with 




SCULPTURE ON TOPE AT SARNATH. 

gold. The Hindus are a devout and religious people, and their zeal and earnestness 
in what is false may teach a lesson to those who know the true. 

Benares is not only the headquarters of Brahmanism, it is the cradle of Buddhism. 
After six years' asceticism and solitude at Gaya, Gautama Buddha, b. c. 590, havmg 
experienced his temptation and his enlightenment under the Bo-tree, made his way to 
Benares, affirming, " I am going to that city to give light to those enshrouded in 
darkness, and to open the gates of immortality to men." The place where he 
taught, once called the Deer Park, now Sarnath, lies four miles northwest of the 
city, and is marked by a large collection of Buddhist remains. Here are two large 
Stupas, or Topes, sacred octagonal towers, built by King Asoka, 250 b. c, separated 
about half a mile from each other, but connected by ruins of walls and foundations 
of buildings lately exhumed, and heaps of thickly scattered bricks. The Buddhist 

125 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

Stiipa, or Tope, is in shape and appearance like an enormous bee-hive, raised hun- 
dreds of feet in height, beautifully ornamented, and surrounded by a massive stone 
rail. It was raised usually as a memorial of some event, or as a relic-shrine. This 
at Benares, called Dhamek, is a solid round tower, ninety-three feet in diameter at 
base, one hundred and twenty-eight feet in height. The lower part is built entirely 
of stone, the upper part of large bricks. The lower part has eight projecting faces 
with niches to receive a statue. The eight statues have disappeared, but they prob- 
ably represented Buddha the preacher, life-size, with uplifted hand. The sides are 
richly decorated with a profusion of flowering foliage, below which the middle band 
is formed of various geometric figures deeply cut. The upper band is a scroll of the 
lotus plant with leaves and buds ; the lower band is similar, but with full-blown 
flowers. In the middle of the lower ornamentation there is a human figure seated 
on a lotus flower, and holding two branches of the lotus in his hands. On each side 
of him there are three lotus flowers, of which the four nearer ones support pairs of 
sacred geese, while the two farther ones carry only single birds. Over the nearest 
pair of geese on the right hand of the figure there is a frog. The attitudes of the 
birds are all good, and even that of the human figure is easy, although formal. The 
lotus scroll is very rich and beautiful. The breadth of each of the eight faces is 
thirty-six feet six inches. 

We entered a passage at the base of the tower which leads right through. In the 
center there is a shaft open to the top. To the west of the tower are the remains of 
a great hospital and of an old Buddhist monastery. A second tope, surmounted by a 
tower called Lori's Leap, consists of a mound of solid brickwork seventy-four feet 
high. The tower above it is an octagonal building erected 1531 to commemorate 
the ascent of the mound on which it stands by the Emperor Humayun. 

The last votaries of Buddha were driven from India in the twelfth century. Num- 
bers of images, concealed by the departing monks, are found buried near Sarnath ; 
and heaps of ashes scattered amid the ruins show that the monasteries were de- 
stroyed by fire. Thus it took several centuries to extirpate Buddhism from India. 

Lucknow, the capital of Oudh, a State which is now included with the North- 
west Provinces, is a city of three hundred thousand inhabitants, situated on the 
banks of the river Gumti, the Oudh tributary of the Ganges. At first sight it im- 
presses the visitor as a most beautiful city, containing a galaxy of majestic buildings 
of dazzling whiteness, crowned with domes of burnished gold and~scores of minarets. 
But a nearer view destroys the illusion. The white color of the buildings is not 
marble, it is simply wash ; the material for the most part is not stone, but stucco, and 
the domes are mere shells of wood. Still, the distances in the city are great, the 
roads admirable and planted with trees, and the gardens and parks are, for beauty 
and extent, unsurpassed in any city in India. The architecture of Lucknow is for 
the most part tawdry and unsubstantial ; the natural loveliness of the city's surround- 
ings, with its well-wooded parks and charming flower gardens, is delightful. We 
first drove to the Dilkusa Palace, in a beautiful park stocked with deer, the head- 
quarters of Sir Colin Campbell's force during the Mutiny of 1857." Then to the 
Martiniere, a strange, fantastic building almost as imposing as a stucco Versailles. 
It was built and endowed by a Frenchman, Claude Martin, who came to India as a 

' Dilkusa, or" Heart's Delight," is now a picturesque ruin shaded by the pecpul and acacia 1 Here Sir Henry Havelock 
expired November 24, 1857. 
126 




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THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

private soldier, and died a general and a millionaire. It was originally intended as a 
palace, but before it was finished the wealthy builder endowed it as a school — a 
happy change ; and the spacious state-rooms are filled with little red beds, each child 
having one of his own. In front is a huge tank, with a lofty column in the center. 

One could hardly look without a shudder at the Secunder Bagh garden, one 
hundred and twenty yards square, where the English troops in 1857 took their 
revenge by slaughtering, to a man, two thousand sepoys. The drive through Wing- 
field Park, which contains many singular trees, e.g., the bael and the fragrant sand;. 




PAVILION OF TURK.A, KAISER BAGH, LUCKNOW. 

wood, was e.xceedingly pleasant. It led us to the Church Mission compound, con- 
taining some old buildings, very picturesque. The Kaiser Bagh is an enormous 
structure, a mass of plaster and stucco, in the Cremorne style of modern grandeur. 
Next we visited the Chowk, a long, narrow bazar, crowded with natives, who made 
way and shrunk from us, not, we were told, out of respect to the conquering race, but 
from religious dread of contact and pollution. The great Imambara, "the architec- 
tural gem of Lucknow," is a huge edifice in the fort, of great solidity, with a grand 
hall sixty yards long, and now converted into a depot for ordnance. The elephant 
stables, a short distance from the city, give one a good idea of the majesty and 
docility of these creatures, when tame and employed on state occasions. Here 
upward of a hundred tame elephants are kept by the Government, well-housed and 
fed, and all well trained — a marveious sight, especially as we saw them, when all out 

I2g 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



on parade in a wide field, each with his mamouts or keepers. The cost of each 
elephan.t would probably make a fat living for a hundred Hindu families. The 
depots where captured elephants are kept are called Khedda. They are usually 
captured in Eastern Bengal by being driven into V-shaped traps or corrals, and by 
degrees are broken in and tamed so as to become the most majestic and docile of 




I -^^ty^K^^/P- 



STATE ELEPHANTS, WITH HOWDAHS, ON PARADE. 

beasts of burden. On state occasions these elephants are clad in the costliest cloths, 
surmounted by gilded howdahs. 

But, of course, the center of interest in Lucknow is the Residency, where, in 
1857, two thousand two hundred souls, consisting of nearly a thousand Euro- 
pean residents, with their women and children and native servants, who came in 
for refuge, and five hundred English soldiers, under Sir Henry Lawrence, with the 
same number of native soldiers who remained faithful, kept a large army of sepoys 
at bay for six months. 

The buildinof is a laree three-storied house, with two towers and thick walls, 

130 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



standino- on an elevation. Its grrounds cover some acres, with scattered buildings 
and a rampart. It is a ruin, a melancholy spectacle; and the inscriptions are most 
affecting: " Here Sir Henry Lawrence was wounded"; " Here Sir Henry Lawrence 
died." We went down to the huge cellars, where the women and children and the 
sick took refuge. Marks of shot and shell are on every hand, but Nature has man- 
tled the spot with verdure. Near is the burial ground, sweet with blooming roses, 
but full of touching monuments raised over the remains of those who died of disease 
■or were shot during the siege. July 
was the most fatal month. On the 
fourth of that month, Lawrence, the 
beloved, the adored commander, fell. 
His tomb has this inscription, em- 
bodying his own dying words : 
" Here lies Henry Lawrence, who 
tried to do his duty. May the Lord 
have mercy on his soul ! " Nearly 
three months passed after his death 
before Havelock came to the rescue. 
Soon afterward, this great gen- 
eral himself died of disease, brought 
on by the hardships of his march. 
His tomb is at the Alambagh, and 
over it a monument erected by his 
widow and children, with the inscrip- 
tion : " He showed how the profes- 
sion of a Christian could be combined 
with the duties of a soldier." To his 
friend Outram, before he died, he 
said, " For more than forty years I 
have so ruled my life, that when 
death came, I might face it without 
fear." 

What with beautiful parks, cap- 
ital roads, good shops, and a large 
civil and military population, Luck- 

n<3w, in spite of these sad memories, is, we are told, extremely popular. There is 
plenty of society, and plenty of amusement. Boating, shooting, games of all sorts, 
are in vogue ; Badminton parties, races, and " a magnificent ball-room with a perfect 
floor." Out of a native taxation amounting to twenty lakhs of rupees, the authori- 
ties of these Northwest Provinces spend three and a half in "conservancy,"— in- 
cluding lighting, repairing, and watering the roads, — and seven and a half on works 
of public utility ; so that the European residents are well provided for. In the 
hottest months they have within easy reach, by way of railway to Bareilly, the 
refreshing hill station of Naini Tal' 

o 

' The Methodist Publishing House at Lucknow has facilities for production equal to our largest American and English 
houses, and in 18S9 printed about twenty-seven million pages, nearly all religious and educational. A weekly four-page tract, 
by Bishop Thoburn, has been sent out, making over half a million pages a month. 

131 




RUINS OF THE KESUJENCV, LUCKNOW. 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



Naini Tal is in the Himalayan division of Kumaon, and is the resort of the Gov- 
ernment of the Northwest Provinces during the hot weather. The scenery as we 
ride up is lovely ; fine trees, drooping creepers, orchids, and tree ferns. The road 
winds around hills rising above hills, all densely wooded, with peeps into valleys, 
each divided by its stream. Unexpectedly, at last, a turn in the road reveals Naini 
Tal, a tarn rather than a lake, oval and olive green. " At the concave end of z. 
horseshoe," says an accurate writer, " about the center, place church, library, club, 
hotel, bazaar, and a few houses, almost encircling a beautiful lake elevated six thou- 
sand three hundred and fifty feet, 
the surrounding hills rising to 
eight thousand five hundred feet. 
Up the valley, in the heart of the 
mountains, cottages are scattered 
about, but the hotels and places of 
resort are located on the flat near 
the margin of the water. Lake 
circumference : two miles, depth 
ninety-three feet ; with a ridge run- 
ning through the center twenty 
feet. People need never be dull. 
Quiet enough for those contented 
to walk round the Syren Lake, or 
to climb up the hills." The " snow 
seat " commands a magnificent 
view. The rhododendrons are 
large, with thick trunks and splen- 
did blossoms. " I made," says Mr. 
Shiell, "a ten days' walking tour 
from Naini Tal toward 'the snows' 
through those hills, and woods, 
and waters that make Kumaon 
the fairest portion of all the sub- 
Himalayan region, one of the 
most beautiful territories upon earth. Alone in all that great extent it possesses 
lake scenery, a chain of gem-like tarns, stretching some fifteen to twenty miles from 
Naini Tal. As we progressed to Almorah, the snows grew nearer and more vast. 
The farthest point we reached was a hill called Binsur Peak, a tree-clad, isolated cone ; 
the warm tints of sunset suffused the snows with a hectic flush, which gradually, as 
the sun declined, faded from off them, till they grew pale and cold, like marble masks, 
and the stars came out, one by one, flickering like tapers on the faces of the dead." 

.An awful landslip took place at Naini Tal on the i8th of September, 1880. 
About one o'clock in the day the place was startled by a sudden and sullen roar, 
louder than the crash of heavy guns, followed by a rumbling as of distant thunder, 
and then by an ominous silence. Vast clouds of dust rose heavenward, and the 
\Yhole place shook as though an earthquake had passed. The waters of the lake rose 
in a moment far above their usual limit, and swept in a massive wave toward the weir. 
It was as though some giant had dropped half a mountain on the spot. Many lives 
132 




SCENE NEAR NAINI TAL. 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

were lost, several houses destroyed. Never was havoc more sudden, more awful, or 
more complete. Without a moment's warning down came the enormous landslip, 
burying in deadly embrace the hotel and a party of workmen behind, assembly-rooms 
and library, with every living soul they contained. The station was plunged into 
the deepest gloom. 

Cawnpore, only forty miles by railway from Lucknow, is a busy, populous town, 
with cotton factories, flour mills, and large saddlery works. It is situated on the 
Ganges, which here varies in width from five hundred yards to a mile, and is crossed 
by a long railway bridge. The military station, with accommodation for seven thou- 










NAINI TAL GORGE, ALMORAH ROAD. 



sand troops, is extremely popular with pig-stickers and sportsmen generally. It 
stands in a flat, sandy plain, very hot and dusty. Near the railway station, a fine 
old soldier of Havelock's army, who was in all the fighting of 1857, keeps a hotel, 
and acts as guide to his visitors. Our guide first led us over Wheeler's Intrench- 
ment, now green and garden-like, where Sir Hugh Wheeler gathered two hundred 
and fifty men, — the remnant of his troops, the rest having mutinied, — three hundred 
residents, and three hundred and thirty women and children. Here he defended 
himself bravely behind a slender rampart of earth for several weeks, when at length 
the worn-out band, already sadly reduced by death, yielded to the treacherous prom- 
ises of the Nana Sahib and surrendered, with the issue that we all know. This is no 
place to tell again the heart-rending story. Enough that the Well associated with 
these horrors is now surrounded by a monument touchingly appropriate and beauti- 
ful. It is by Marochetti, and walled in with a Gothic railing. The statue is that 

133 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



of an angel leaning with drooping wings, her back against the all-sustaining-cross, 
her arms folded upon her breast, having in her hands the palm-leaves emblematical 

of martyrdom and victory. The 
pedestal bears the following in- 
scription : 

Sacred to the perpetual memory of 
a great company of Christian people — 
chiefly women and children — who, near 
this spot, were cruelly massacred by the 
followers of the rebel Nana Dhoon- 
dopunt of Bithoor, and cast, the dying 
with the dead, into the well below, on 
the fifteenth day of July, 1857. 

A memorial church stands 
a short distance off, round which 
are many tombs. The inscrip- 
tion is frequent : " These are 
they which came out of great 
tribulation." One thinks of 
Cawnpore with a shudder, and 
leaves it with a sigh. The fact, 
however, must be recorded when- 
ever the sad story is told, that 
the most careful Government 
investigations failed to discover 
a single case on the part of 
the sepoys of mutilation before 
death, or of torture, or of the 
dishonor of women during the 
Indian Mutiny. 

" However late you arrive 
at Agra, if it is moonlight, drive 
to the Taj." This was the 
advice of a friend who had seen 
the Taj, and who adored it as 
the finest sight on earth. " Be 
sure to have moonlight for Agra 
and the Taj," said another. 
Agra and the Taj seem to go 
together in the imagination of 
many, and Agra seems almost 
to exist for the Taj. "Nothing 
that has been written," says a 
third, " does the Taj any sort of 
justice, and we may wait another 
two hundred and fifty years for 

a worthy description." What, then, is the Taj ? It is a tomb, a Mohammedan tomb. 

the tomb of a woman, the tomb of a rich man's favorite wife, the word Taj being, like 




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134 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 



" Sail," or " Bess," the pet name with which he addressed her ; it is her tomb and his 
own, for he lies beside her, built in compliance with a request of hers before she died. 
One characteristic of the Tartars was their tomb-building propensity. Each Mogul 
in turn built a tomb for himself. The Taj was built by the Mogul Shah Jehan, the 
grandson of Akbar, as a tomb for his favorite wife, Moomtaj a Mehal, and for him- 
self. About two miles from the town, along a dusty road, you pass under a colossal 
gateway, in itself an object commanding and impressive, and worth coming many 
miles to see ; and before you is a 
lovely garden, gieen and shaded with 
beautiful trees, and in the center an 
avenue of tall, dark cypress trees, 
separated by a line of fountains, and 
leading the eye to the foot of the 
buildino-, which rises from a double 
platform, the first of red sandstone 
twenty feet high and one thousand 
feet broad, the second of marble fif- 
teen feet high and three hundred 
feet square, on the corners of which 
stand four marble minarets. In the 
center of all thus reared in air stands 
the Taj, with giant arches and clus- 
terinsf domes. The afternoon sun 
was shining upon it, and the deep 
blue sky beyond. As you walk to- 
ward it the building grows to its real 
size, and what at first sight seemed 
a swan-like vision reared in air nOw 
displays its colossal proportions, a 
marble shrine of great magnitude 
inlaid with precious stones, graceful 
in its outlines, costly in its gems, 
and perfect in its details. Beyond, 
the Jumna flows ; and on either 

side the great platform there rises a beautiful mosque, the one for use, the 
other (because not looking toward Mecca) raised only for finish and symmetry. 
Every picture of the Taj fails to give the full impression of its majesty, because, 
with minuteness of detail, and effeminate elegance of finish, it fails to embody 
its stupendous size and giant massiveness. What is huge and massive is usu- 
ally associated in the mind with what is rough, abrupt, ponderous. In the Taj 
you have the majesty of a giant building combined with the lightness and deli- 
cacy of a costly cabinet. As Bishop Heber said, the Saracens built like Titans, 
and finished like jewelers. The Taj is, in fact, a colossal casket, whose base is a 
square of one hundred and eighty-six feet, whose height is two hundred feet, and 
whose cost was above ten million dollars. The echoes under its dome are almost 
perpetual, and most soft and musical. Within, all is empty, save the marble sar- 
cophagus above, and the actual tomb in a vault beneath. Death is there without any 

135 




ME.MORIAL WELL, CAWNPORE. 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

hopeful emblem, and to the triumph of death the building witnesses. As I walked 
round it outside the words came into my mind which the disciples addressed to Jesus : 
" Master, see what manner of stones and what buildings are here." Nor could I shut 
out from my recollection those other words of the Master in reply : " Seest thou these 
great buildings? There shall not be left one stone upon another that shall not be 
thrown down" — words which significantly stand in close connection with His esti- 
mate of the widow's mite, uttered a few moments before, — her act permanent, the 
massive temple transient. The Taj is a perfect casket — perfect in its proportions, 
its material, its elegance, its costliness ; but it lacks object, sanctity, history, associa- 
tions, utility. It is, as I have said, a tomb, the tomb of one of the wives of a Mo- 




AGRA FORT. 



hammedan ruler, built at her request for her and for himself. As a tomb, the grave 
of his faithful daughter, covered with sod, at Delhi, touches a higher chord. As a 
building, though with some it is a sign of culture to adore it as the embodiment of 
heavenly beauty, and comparable even with the eternal snows of the Himalayas; to 
my mind, considering the national history and aspirations they each embody, the 
Parthenon at Athens, the cathedral at Milan, and even the Capitol at Washington, 
are nobler buildings than the Taj. 

The palaces of the Moguls in India are usually found within the fort of the 
capital. The fort of Agra, though hardly equal to that of Delhi, is grand and 
imposing. It is of red sandstone, and its walls arfe forty feet high. Within are the 
various buildings belonging to the palace of a Mohammedan ruler. There is a hall 
of public audience and one of private audience, luxurious chambers and baths, 
dwellings for the soldiers, dungeons for the prisoners, throne-rooms, and mosques 
for worship. Here are stored the Somnath Gates, the dumb memorials of Lord 

136 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

Ellenborough's pompous and silly boast. Here the great Akbar lived for many 
years. But the most beautiful buildings here were raised by his grandson, Shah 
Jehan. These consist of the apartments of the harem and the Pearl Mosque. As 
to the harem, " Picture to yourselves," says a graphic writer, " rooms or boudoirs, 
call them what you please, opening one into another, all of pure marble ; here a 
balcony supported by delicate pillars with projecting roofs; there, exquisite balus- 




THE TAJ MEHAL, AGRA. 



trades in delicate lace-like open patterns, having no ornament save gilding, with 
views extending over the country, and embracing the Taj and the Jumna. Imagine, 
again, rivulets of water streaming from room to room along marble beds ; gardens 
of flowers and precious exotics ; the creepers running over trellises, and shading 
from the heat the pathways across the marble floors, and mingling with the flying 
spray of the fountains ; and this on and on from room to room, from balcony to 
balcony, from court to court." 

Pre-eminent in beauty, within the fort of Agra, is the Mutee Musjid, or Pearl 

137 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

Mosque, also built by Shah Jehan, two hundred and forty feet from east to west, 
and one hundred and ninety feet from nortli to south, with an open court one 
hundred and fifty feet square. This building is wholly of white marble, from the 
pavement to the summit of its domes. The western part, or mosque proper, is also 
of white marble, except an Arabic inscription from the Koran in black. The domes 




BALCONY IN PALACE, AGRA. 

tower high above the other buildings of the fort, and in the glare of the morning 
sun look as if really built up of pearl. It is not only the Pearl Mosque, it is the 
pearl of mosques, unequaled in beauty by any other. 

But to all this white marble there is a dark side, " dark scenes in the shades 
below balancing the brilliant scenes in the heights above. Deep down are seen 
mysterious stairs descending into empty cells and covered vaults, and from these 
again descending deeper and deeper still, through tortuous passages, ending ap- 
parently in nothing, yet with more than a suspicion of a something beyond, although 
a built-up wall interposes. We examined these mysterious and dim retreats, and we 

138 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

saw enough to convince us that pleasure and pain, 'lust and hate,' were near neigh- 
bors in Agra, as in other places. Sad evidences were apparent of beings who from 
jealousy, or other causes, had been conveyed to these chambers of horror, and there 
executed in the eye of God alone."' Beyond some of these barriers human 
skeletons have been found, some hung with ropes. Thus, side by side with the 
relics of Oriental splendor, are the visible tokens of Mogul cruelty. 








The tomb of Akbar is near Secun 
dra, seven miles from Agra, in a court 



a quarter of a mile square. A heavy wall surrounds it like a fortress. It is three 
hundred feet square, and a hundred feet high, rising in terraces of pyramidal form, 
with cloisters, galleries, and domes. The design is borrowed, Mr. Fergusson thinks, 
from a Hindu, or, more correctly, a Buddhist model. The highest elevation is 
flat-roofed, with kiosks at the angles. Omit the domes, and the resemblance to the 
old Buddhist viharas is apparent. Akbar was just and tolerant, and sought in vain 
to abolish the distinction between Hindu and Mohammedan. He abolished the 



Vide Outdoor Life in Europe, E. P. Thwing, page 196. 



139 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

Hindu tax, jiziah, and carried out many reforms. He took up his residence at 
Futtepore Sikri, where are to be seen his finest works as a builder, which cluster, 
Acropolis-like, upon the top of a small ridge of hills. The richest of these are three 
pavilions, said to have been erected for his three favorite sultanas. But his most 
majestic work is the mosque, sternly grand ; the southern gateway of which stands 
on a rising ground, and " when looked at from below is noble," says Mr. Fergusson, 
" beyond that of any portal attached to any mosque in India, perhaps in the whole 
world." Futtepore Sikri was the Windsor or Versailles of the Moguls. It is twenty 




^^^^^^g^^^'^^^gf :^^-7 -rr^-c^^^^:^ 



GATEWAY AT SECUNDRA. 



miles from Agra, on a rocky hill ; and the wall inclosing it is nine miles in extent. 
Among the buildings, one is called the Hide-and-Seek Palace, with narrow corri- 
dors, where, as is told, the consorts of the emperor used to amuse themselves at 
bo-peep. The material of the buildings is red sandstone, of the richest color and 
finest grain. " The style," acutely observes Mr. Sheill, " though elaborately ornate, 
is characterized by an almost grim severity ; and so cyclopean are the dimensions 
and the massiveness of the masonry that they might be the abodes of an extinct 
race of giants." 

The seat of government in the Northwest Provinces is Allahabad, " City of 
Allah," a Mohammedan name, given in the sixteenth century to the ancient Prayaga, 

140 ■• 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 

a sacred Hindu city situated on the tongue of land formed by the confluence of the 
Jumna and the Ganges. A magnificent railway bridge now spans the Jumna, just 
above the union of the rivers. Its length is three thousand two hundred and 
twenty-four feet, and there are fifteen openings of two hundred and five feet clear. 
The piers are of stone, sunk fifty feet below the bed of the river. It reminds one 
somewhat of the bridge at Montreal. Allahabad was once a republican state in the 
heart of ancient India. The fort, originally a Hindu stronghold but rebuilt by 
Akbar of red stone, though not to be compared with that of Agra, contains a mono- 
lith forty-two feet high, with a Pali inscription — one of those erected by the Bud- 
dhist King Asoka. This is the most complete and probably the oldest of the 







' / V#^:S^^«^^=3^--- 



PANCH MAHAL, FUTTEPORE SIKRI. 



Buddhist Lats. Under the great hall, now transformed into an arsenal, steps lead 
down to a subterranean Hindu temple, full of loathsome figures and emblems daubed 
with red paint. No doubt the place was originally a Buddhist cave-temple. The 
stump of a banyan tree, said to be fifteen centuries old, and still alive, is here the 
object of worship. A light burns before it, and beside it a young Brahman sits to 
receive the offerings of the devotees. As we stood near, some women came up, 
paid their money, received the priest's blessing, scattered flowers, and then embraced 
with kisses the sacred stump. At Delhi and Agra Hinduism has been crushed by 
Mohammedanism. At Allahabad it has taken refuge underground. From the roof 
of the arsenal we looked upon the junction of the Jumna and the Ganges, where 
many pilgrims were bathing. This " meeting of the waters " is regarded as a most 

141 



THE NORTHWEST PROVINCES AND OUDE. 




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sacred place of pilgrimage, and in 
January and February, during the 
Mela, it presents the appearance 
of a continual fair, with proces- 
sions, banners, booths, and bathers. 
Thousands go down into the 
water — all classes and all ages — in 
the vain hope of washing away 
their guilt. 

The Sarai in Allahabad is a 
square high-walled garden, contain- 
ing three stone Mohammedan mau- 
soleums, surmounted by marble 
domes. They are the tombs of 
the two sons of Jehanjir and their 
mother. That in the center, of the 
unhappy Khusru, the eldest son, 
and victim of his father's cruelty, 
is the largest ; that of the mother, 
on the right, comes next ; but they 
do not allow her to have a quiet 
sleep, for the upper floor of her 
tomb has been fitted up into a bil- 
liard room. That of the younger 
son, on the left, is smaller, and is 
surmounted by a graceful dome. 
The walls of all three are out- 
wardly ornamented, and the in- 
teriors are beautifully painted, 
though the colors are faded. Near 
the Sarai is the pretty church of 
the Episcopal Methodist Mission, 
which is very successful among the 
Hindus. The American Presby- 
terian Mission, whose operations 
stretch far up into the Punjab, 
has its headquarters here, and its 
schools are most efficient. It has 
asylums for the blind and for lep- 
ers, a printing-press, and deposi- 
tory. Allahabad, as the great rail- 
way center, where the lines from 
Delhi, Calcutta, and Bombay meet, 
is a rapidly growing city. 



142 




TOMBS IN THE SARAI, ALLAHABAD. 



144 



Iil!iii!llll!li:ii!!lllilll!i|l!!lllillllllflillliilllllillll 



IP 

Ills 

iNPaiiillllJi,;,,,, 





BAS-RELIEFS IN THE MUSEUM, PESHAWAR. 



THE PUNJAB. 



ITS CONDITION AND EXTENT DELHI AND ITS PLAINS AMRITSAR AND LAHORE- 
PESHAWAR AND KASHMIR — SIML.\ LANDOUR DHARMSALA DALHOUSIE. 




T' 



HE Punjab is the most promising 
of English conquests in India. It 
is nearest to England byway of Kar- 
achi ; it has a cooler and more bracing 
climate, though the south parts about 
Multan are almost rainless, and from 
the proximity of the desert the air 
becomes scorching. It has accessible 
hill stations, and it has a population 
of twenty-three millions, friendly and 
loyal, as well as quiet and industrious. 
" When I first crossed the Sutlej," 
says the lamented John Lawrence, 
" there was not the trace of a road in 
the country ; now we have several 
thousand miles of road and railways. 
The people were our enemies ; one 
class in the country preyed on the other ; 
there was little real security. Now all 
this has changed. Life and property 
are wonderfully safe. The people are peaceable and well-disposed. All this has 
been proved beyond question in 1857, when, but for the general contentment of the 
people, it would not have been possible to maintain the public tranquillity, still 

147 



WATER-CARRIERS. 



THE PUNJAB. 

less to have assisted in the reconquest of Hindustan. For all these advantages I 
acknowledge myself indebted to the great Author of all good. Without His 
guiding and protecting hand, what would indeed have become of us all?" Henry 
and John Lawrence, and indeed most of their coadjutors and successors in the 
government of the Punjab, were men who openly avowed their faith in Chris- 
tianity, and their desire to give it to the people they governed. They supported 
missionary effort, and the results are evident. Sir Herbert Edwardes, the Com- 
missioner, openly declared at Peshawar : " The East has been given to our country 
for a mission, neither to the minds nor bodies, but to the souls of men. Our mis- 
sion in India is to do for other nations what we have done for our own. To the 
Hindus we have to preach one God, and to the Mohammedans to preach one Medi- 
ator." The Americans were the pioneers of missions throughout the district ; and 
the foundations of a sound Bible Christianity have been deeply laid. Besides 
efficient schools, they have founded orphanages, asylums, and hospitals. No fewer 
than eight Missionary Societies, with thirty central missions, are now at work in 
the Punjab ; and no stronger argument for Christian missions could be urged than 
that afforded by the state of the country. 

The name Punjab signifies "the five rivers," the five great tributaries of the 
Indus ; and the tracts of country between the rivers are called Doabs. But the 
Sutlej, the limit of the conquests of Alexander the Great, does not form the eastern 
boundary. The province of Delhi itself has since the Mutiny been included ; and 
when one enters Delhi one enters the Punjab. Many hill states are also embraced 
under the name ; and to these must be added ill-governed Kashmir, extending 
beyond the Himalayas, and unjustly handed over to the tender mercies of an alien 
Maharajah. 

Delhi, the Rome of Asia during three thousand years, is a thousand miles 
from Calcutta, and fifteen hours by railway from Cawnpore. The city is on the 
river Jumna, just outside the boundary of the Northwest Provinces, and within the 
Punjab. It had a long history before the Moguls. It is said to have been de- 
stroyed and rebuilt seven times ; and the remains of these successive cities cover 
the plain for miles. The great fort, built by Shah Jehan, is a mile and a half in 
circuit, with a wall forty feet high. Entering by the Lahore Gate, a splendid 
Gothic arch in the center of the tower is succeeded by a long vaulted aisle ; and 
drivino- through, we come to the Hall of Public Audience, of red sandstone, and 
then by the Motee Musjid, the Mosque of Pearls, well named from its pearly loveli- 
ness, to the Hall of Private Audience, all of polished marble, and looking out over 
the wide Jumna. Here, between each pair of pillars, is a beautiful balustrade of 
marble, chastely carved. The roof has at each corner a marble kiosk with a gilt 
dome. The ceiling is composed of gold and silver filigree work, and in the center 
stood the famous peacock throne of solid gold, with gems and diamonds estimated 
as worth thirty million dollars. It was captured by the Persian, Nadir Shah, 
in 1739. All this wealth and grandeur have been taken away; but the building 
still witnesses to its former magnificence, and along the cornice on each side of the 
chamber the inscription is repeated in flourishing Arabic, inlaid : " If there be a 
paradise on earth, it is this ! it is this ! it is this ! " Vanitas vanitatum, would 
be a more appropriate motto now. 

The great Mosque of Delhi, built of red sandstone and white marble, — the snowy 

148 



THE PUNJAB. 

domes marble, the needle-like minarets red sandstone, ^ — perched high upon a rock, 
and approached by forty deep steps on three of its sides, is the one object that meets 
the eye everywhere about Delhi and is the finest mosque in India, and the chief 
shrine of Indian Mohammedanism. Like all great mosques, it is named Jumma 
Musjid, i. e., the Friday Mosque, Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath. The 




HALL OF PRIVATE AUDIENCE, DELHI. 

Empress, Queen Victoria, has forty millions of Mohammedan subjects in India. 
Their bearing strikes you at once as different from that of the Hindus. They are 
conquered conquerors. Once the rulers, they are in turn the ruled ; and as they 
walk haughtily along, when they pass an Englishman, they grind their teeth. Pride 
and hatred, the two most prominent features in a Mohammedan, are apparent on every 
hand. To describe this mosque will be to describe all. A huge quadrangle open to 
the sky, four hundred and fifty feet square ; a fountain in the middle, for the ablu- 

149 



THE PUNJAB. 

tions of the faithful ; a colonnade on three sides, north, south, and east, of red sand- 
stone, with open arches. On the west, toward Mecca, a building open in front, 
of white marble, covered with three graceful white marble domes, surmounted by 
spires of copper, richly gilt. Its front — with a majestic opening in the center and 
smaller arches on either side — is all of white marble with Arabic inscriptions. The 
interior is paved throughout with nine hundred immense oblong slabs of white 
marble, bordered with black, and in the wall, at the center, is the niche, or kibla, to- 
ward sacred Mecca, where prayers are directed. At either corner is a minaret, one 
hundred and forty feet high, of white marble and red sandstone placed vertically in 
alternate stripes. Up these the muezzin goes to call to prayers ; and the summit 
commands a magnificent view. On Fridays you may see the vast area filled with 




JUMMA MUSJID, DELHI. 

worshipers, kneeling and rising, standing up and prostrating themselves as one man. 
Women are seldom seen within the precincts. Women, according to the Moham- 
medans, practically have no souls. They exist for, and are the chattels of men. 
The Koran itself allows a man four wives, to say nothing of concubines ; and its 
paradise is a paradise of lust. It is the fashion to praise Mohammed and the 
Koran ; but history, and the present character of the Moslems of every land, testify 
that whatever excellence there may appear in the founder, or his great work, hatred, 
cruelty, pride, and lust are the graces which it fosters. From treating his women 
with savage coolness, or beating them with rage, the Mohammedan will turn to- 
ward Mecca, and in Pharisaic devoutness, taking off his shoes and spreading his gar- 
ment in the most conspicuous place, he will go through his gesticulations and per- 
form his prayers. Here in Delhi, at Agra, Allahabad, and Bombay, in Cairo, 
Jerusalem, Damascus, Constantinople, London, by land and on board ship, I have 
witnessed the performance, and always has it left this impression on my mind. 

There are in the neighborhood of what we may call the Mohammedan Delhi 
the ruins of a series of successive cities that have been razed to the ground. Among 
these stands the Lat of Feroz Shah, a monolith of red sandstone, covered with an 



THE PUNJAB. 

inscription in Pali, wliich tells that it was erected by Asoka. The column is, there- 
fore, at least two thousand two hundred years old, and the inscription upon it is 
probably the oldest writing in India. The tomb of Humayun, Akbar's father, a 
tyrant of great cruelty, the patron of Thuggism, and now revered as a saint, is 
colossal in size and marvelous in workmanship ; red sandstone inlaid with marble, 
and white marble domes. It took sixteen years in building, and the quadrangle of 
solid masonry in which it stands is four hundred yards square. Near it is the sixty- 




CLOISTERS, MOSQUE OF KUTUB, NEAR DELHI. 



four pillared hall, and a beautifully carved tomb of a Mussulman saint of the four- 
teenth century. Another sumptuous tomb is in honor of a scoundrel who killed 
himself by drinking cherry-brandy, of which liquor he used to swallow a glass an 
hour ! Here also is the simple sodded grave of the faithful daughter of Shah Jehan, 
faithful to him when he was imprisoned by his son in the midst of his grandeur, and 
with the Inscription on a stone at the head in Arabic : " Let no rich canopy cover 
my grave. This grass is the best covering for the tomb of the poor in spirit." Such 
simplicity is refreshing amid gigantic Idolatry in stone of man and the basest of men. 
At hand, in a small deep tank, forty feet square, miserable Hindus turn a penny by 
jumping with a run from a dome top, feet foremost, from a height of fifty feet, shooting 
like arrows straight Into the water, with the sound of a dead man's dive, and presently 
coming up to you, quite exhausted, to beg backsheesh for the feat. 

151 



THE P UN JAB. 

After traversing the wide sandy plain covered with these buildings and ruins for 
a distance of eleven miles, it is a relief to reach an oasis of green sward and shady- 
trees. Here, in the midst of verdure, stand the most gigantic and impressive remains 
of old Delhi's splendor. Passing through Aladin's Gate, a majestic arch, remindino- 
one almost of Furness Abbey, and with the celebrated iron pillar about fifty feet in 
length before it, you see before you a massive column, like an isolated minaret, with 
five successive galleries. This is the celebrated Kutub Minar, a fluted column 
two hundred and forty feet high, one hundred feet circumference at the base, and 







aladin's gate, with iron pillar. 



gradually diminishing in a series of five stories, like joints in a telescope, to thirty 
feet circumference at the summit. The view from the top is extensive, modern 
Delhi and the hills beyond being perfectly clear in outline. What the column was 
built for it is difficult to say. It is supposed to be, not a Mohammedan, but a Hindu 
building, dating from the twelfth century ; but it certainly looks much more like the 
Moslem buildings in modern. Delhi ; and the more probable tradition is that it was 
erected in 1193 to celebrate the overthrow of the last of the Hindu Rajahs of Delhi. 
A sultan named A',a;/?^/5, who succeeded Ghori (a. d. 1206), a general and administrator, 
is said to have built this minar, or "pillar," of victory. Round about it are the ruins 
of a mosque, built out of the previous ruins of Hindu temples, like the cloisters of a 
great cathedral. The enigmatical iron pillar, sixty feet long, smooth and black with 
152 



THE PUNJAB. 

age, and the elaborately carved columns of the temple indicate a Brahmanical- origin. 
In the midst of these ruins the trees and shrubs and creepers are most luxuriant and 
refreshing after the heat and dust and glare of the plain. 

The Siege of Delhi was one of the most tragic and important events of the Mutiny 
year. In the Chowk, or main thoroughfare, seventy-four feet wide, with a raised 
shaded footpath running down the center and planted with trees. Captain Hodson 
exposed the bodies of the aged King of Delhi's two sons, whom he had himself shot 
without trial and with his own hand after their surrender. In this street, too, stands 
the kotwali, or court-house, before which the defenders of the city durino- the sieo-e 
were one after another executed by the English. The inhabitants may well tremble 
at the very name of this street. But it is very gay ; full of shops ; in fact, it is called 
the Regent Street of Delhi, which now glories in Lord Lytton's burlesque Durbar 
of 1876, held while famine was stalking through the peninsula and preparing its 
holocaust of five million souls. Delhi is a convenient, sociable, and popular station 
for the judicial, military, and revenue officers. Driving to the Ridge outside the city 
to the north, we passed through the Kashmir Gate, blown up bravely by the English 
when they stormed the city ; and close by it is the spot where Nicholson fell, who, as 
his tombstone tells, led the assault of Delhi, but was in the hour of victory mortally 
wounded. Crowning the height, a mile away, and commanding a magnificent view 
over Delhi, is the Flagstaff Tower ; and, farther on, the Memorial, appropriately 
giving on its sides the details of encampment and of siege. It bears the inscription : 
'* In memory of the officers and soldiers of the Delhi field force who were killed in 
action, or died of wounds or disease, between the 30th of May and the 20th of Sep- 
tember, 1857. Erected by their comrades and government."' 

Turning from these sad reminiscences it was a relief on the Sunday to attend 
Christian services and to mark the progress of Christian missions. The name of 
England is in North India associated everywhere so palpably with troops, canton- 
ments, battles, and bloodshed, that were it not for missions and missionaries there 

^ February lo, iSgo, the day that Prince Albert Victor arrived at Delhi, the writer stood among the graves of English soldiers 
not far from the Kashmir Gate. Recollections of the Mutiny of 1857 suggested these lines ; 



The slcies of Asia, warm nnd blue. 
My heart a-glowing kindle too ; 
While gazing on e.ich sacrcj dome, ' 
A wanderer now so far from home, 
I feel the spell of ages gone. 

Laved by fair Jumna's flowing tide. 

Stand Delhi's battered walls beside ; 
The gorgeous mosque, the tapering tower. 
Barbaric wealth and Moslem power 

All charm for me the passing hour. 

Hibiscus red and Indian rose — 

This every stranger's heart well knows— 
Scent not the air with breath more sweet 
Than ine iiories rich which here do meet, 

Alluring now my pilgrim feet. 

But tenderest of the thoughts that rise 
And lift my heart above the skies. 

Come to me now 'mid these green graves 

A quiet streamlet softly laves. 
Where mango shades and palm tree waves. 

Here fell our honored kinsmen brave, 

Imperilled India's life lo save ; 
Not 'gainst a strange marauder's band 
Did English soldiers make a stand — 

The foes were nourished in the land ! 



The frenzy of that hour has p.issed. 
Too fierce and sudden long to last ; 

Victoria's heir to-day is here. 

Hailed with loud greetings far and near — 
Bring garlands to these graves so dear. 

Still fiercer foes of India's life 

Are battling yet in bloodless strife 

With Christian heroes, called to stand 

For God's own truth a bannered band. 

To save from error this fair land. 

But when Immanuel shall appear 

In princely pomp and victory here, 
A loyal peiple at His feet 
His royal coming then shall greet, 
Each heart and home His seat. 

Garlands befit the soldier's grave 

Who fell his country's flag to save ; 
Rut love more grateful shall embalm 
And raise for ihcm a holier psalm 
Who bear aloft the martyr's palm ! 

The Light of Asia's Christ our King ! 

His glory all the earth shall sing ; 
And future, grand, millennial days 
Shall hear no sweeter song of praise 

Than that which India then shall raise ! 



-Ed. 



153 



THE PUNJAB. 



would be nothing to show that our country is also associated with the Gospel of the 
Prince of Peace. It is an old native proverb, " English religion, devil religion." 
Bayonets rather than Bibles, gunpowder rather 
than goodness, are associated with our country 
in native experience. Even attendance at 
church is accompanied with the clank of 
swords and the beat of drums. Still, the 
Christian religion is not without its champions 
and its votaries in the army as well as outside. 
Missionaries are often the objects of careless 
hilarious ridicule at other tables besides mess- 
tables, but usually on the part of men who 
do not really know them nor take an) pains 
to examine their work. For the 
most part their lives are quiet and -^53 

obscure ; but they are nevertheless ___ ^ 
the true and consistent ambassadors 
of the Prince of Peace and King of 
Righteousness. Here in Delhi the 
Cambridge mission is making its way 
among different classes of the in- 
habitants. There is a square of 
houses on the northeast of the city 
occupied almost entirely by native 
Christians ; and several weekly Bible 
classes are attended by Hindus. The 
high schools have 
many Christian na- 
tive teachers. The 
Baptists have been 
in Delhi v. 

sixty years, ■' *'- 
and have 
an exten- 
sive field of 
operations. 
Their rag- 
ged schools T^, 
receive like 
most miss- 
ion schools 
in I ndia. 
Govern- 
ment aid, 
and are do- 
ing a very good work among the poorest classes, teaching the pupils to read the 
Gospels. Their Basil meetings in the open air, amid the dwellings of the poor, 
154 




KUTUK MINAR, NEAR DELHI. 



THE PUNJAB. 

after the day's work is done, are attended by from fifty to a hundred heathens or 
Mohammedans. There are five-and-twenty places where these singing meetings 
nre held three or four evenings a week. The tunes are native. The Zenana 
Mission is also effectively worked, and many women are under Christian influence 
and instruction. 

Leaving Delhi at 1.30 p. m., and traveling all night northwest by railway three 




CHANDI CHOWK, DELHI. 

hundred and sixteen miles, we find ourselves next morning at six o'clock in Amritsar, 
"fountain of immortality," a great emporium of trade, and the sacred city of the 
religious community called Sikhs. The word Sikhs signifies "disciples," and the 
religion thus designated is a mixture of Hinduism and Mohammedanism, inculcating 
the worship of one God, but attaching extreme reverence to the cow. The spiritual 
teachers of these "disciples" are called Gurus ; and many of the population, includ- 
ing most of the upper classes, are of this persuasion. Its Bible is called the Grunth, 
and is regarded with great reverence. It has been translated into English, and the 
translator describes it as "shallow and incoherent in the extreme." 



155 



THE PUNJAB. 

Amrltsar is a very Oriental-looking city, and a great place for ivory carving and 
for the manufacture of Kashmir shawls. The process is exceedingly tedious and try- 
ing to the workman's eyes. A separate shuttle is used for every color, and a whole 
day may be spent over a section of the shawl scarcely perceptible to the eye. The 
rooms in which they are woven are close and narrow, in fact, dirty and wretched 
dens, a strange contrast to the picturesque city outside. But the one great sight of 
Amritsar is the Golden Temple of the Sikhs. It is of pure white marble, rising out 
of a large tank, and its roof is of plates of copper, richly gilded. The blue rippling 




GOLDEN TEMPLE OF THE SIKHS, AMRITSAR. 

waves wash against the polished marble courtyard which surrounds the tank. The 
temple is connected by a broad roadway, also of white marble, with golden balus- 
trades and lamps (see frontispiece to this volume). The lower half of the walls are 
carved white marble, the doors solid silver, the windows golden ; while the upper 
half and the roof seem a mass of gfold. The outside dazzles, elistenine in the bril- 
liant sunlight, and is reflected in the sparkling waters. There is much mosaic work 
in the marble flooring, and the interior is highly gilded. The temple is not large, 
but somewhat resembles the Alhambra. 

Lahore is only two hours by railway from Amritsar. It was a great city a thou- 
sand years ago. In the time of the Moguls it is said to have had a circumference of 

156 



THE PUNJAB. 

eighteen miles. But now it is a mere shadow of its former self. It is only about 
three miles in circumference, and a circular road runs round it with a belt of orna- 
mental garden. The Great Mosque built by Aurangzeb is a stately pile, and has in 
its quadrangle a noble banyan and other trees peopled with flocks of starlings. But, 
like that at Benares, the mosque is deserted. The high-perched white fort com- 
mands an admirable view of the city and the dusty wilderness around. One of the 
chief sights in Lahore is the tomb erected by the beautiful and talented Nurjehan 
over her drunken husband, the Emperor Jehanjeer. It is in the style of the Taj, 




TOMB OF RUNGIT SIXG, LAHORE. 



and stands in a beautiful garden planted with orange groves far to the west of the 
city across the Ravee. 

The European quarters, including the military station, cover an area of fourteen 
square miles. In the Lawrence Hall Gardens are eighty thousand trees. The res- 
idence of the Lieutenant-governor is opposite. Three miles from IMianmir, the mil- 
itary station, where there is a splendid church, are the stately Shalamar Gardens. 
The church in the civil station is said to have been originally the tomb of a dancing- 
girl. 

Two hundred miles southwest by rail, over arid desert from Lahore, lies Mul- 
TAN, well known for its dust storms and fiery heat, but of historic interest from Alex- 
ander the Great downward, till it was taken by the British in 1849. ^^ contains 
many mosques and a beautiful Hindu temple. Westward across the Indus is Dera 

157 



THE PUNJAB. 

Ghazi Khan ; and thirty miles beyond, at the foot of the SuHman range, running 
north and south as a natural wall separating Afghanistan, is Sakhi Sarwar. This 
being in existence, it was remarked by some native that it was unnecessary for the 
gods to have made hell also ; the heat, dust, and barrenness are choking and oppres- 
sive. The name is derived from that of a Mohammedan saint whose tomb, close by, 
a large square, tower-like building, with spires or minarets, draws many pilgrims. An 
annual festival, or fair, in his honor is held in the month of April. The walls of the 
shrine within are hung with small pillows variously ornamented, offerings of the pil- 




SAKHI SARWAR. 



grims to the saint. Near the building is a defile called the Robber's Leap, inclosed 
with cliffs formed of gravelly layers, and rocks uneasily resting in fantastic positions. 
Farther on is a cave with the finger-print of the saint, and again the print of his left 
foot on a slanting ledge of rock ; this place is called the Moza. His companions are 
said to be buried in an adjacent mound, on which are only pebbles and stunted 
brambles. 

The Northern State Railway now runs all the way to Peshawar, crosses Jhelum, 
the ancient Hystaspes, and passes through Rawal Pindee, a healthy military station 
situated on an elevated ridsfe. From this station we ascend in ten or twelve hours' 
dhooly journey to Muree, a gay and festive hill station upon a ridge seven thousand 
five hundred feet high. Northward the slopes are clothed with oa,ks, pines, and 
horse-chestnuts. Srinagur, the capital of Kashmir, is one hundred and sixty miles 

158 



THE PUNJAB. 



from Miirree. Sixty miles beyond Rawal Pindee tlie railway brings us to Attock, a 
fortress on the Indus, which here is two hundred and sixty yards wide and flows in 
a strong turbulent torrent, crossed only by a bridge of boats. Overhanging the river 
is a crag, looking out upon a wide tract of desert. Near to this Darius crossed the 




STREET IN PESHAWAR. 



Indus, B. c. 518; and not far from Rawal Pindee Alexander the Great won his fa- 
mous victory over Porus, B. c. 326. Forty miles more bring us to Peshawar, the 
frontier city, eighteen miles east of the Kyber Pass. Peshawar has fifty thousand 
inhabitants, but its liability to earthquakes gives the buildings an unstable character. 
In the museum there are several interesting bas-reliefs, illustrative of early Indian 
sculpture, and showing the influence of Greek art. What the Buddhists were to the 
architecture of Northern India the Greeks were to its sculpture. Greek faces con- 

159 



THE F UN JAB. 

stantly occur in ancient Buddhist statuary, and the blending of these with Hindu 
forms and features is distinctly traceable. As by degrees Greek influence faded away, 
the coarser representations of full-blown Hinduism asserted their sway, as at Am- 
ravati and Sanchi, and afterward at Elephanta. 

From Peshawar may be seen the dark range of serrated mountains, with the 
black chasm of the Kyber Pass, and far away the Hindu Koosh. The beautiful val- 
ley in the flush of spring, when the horseshoe of mountains is still clad in snow, while 
its peach and quince gardens are in full flower, must be enchanting. The climate is 
temperate. 




ATTOCK. 



Another way into Kashmir is by the pretty station of Sealkote, which Mr. Grant 
Duff describes as the prettiest in India, the Pir Punjal and other great Himalayan 
ranges being full in view. He was journeying to Jummoo, the winter capital of the 
Maharajah of Kashmir. " We had crossed most of the woodland, and had descended 
from our elephants, when we reached a point where, in the clearer morning, the moun- 
tains stood out in all their beauty. On the left stretched the mighty snowy chain of 
the Pir Punjal, rising eighteen thousand feet. Then in the middle of the background 
came an outer range, not snowy ; lastly, far to the right, another snowy range on the 
borders of Thibet. Between us and the mountains lay Jummoo, with its white pyra- 
midal temples shining in the sun, and surrounded by a near landscape which wanted 
nothing to make It perfect. It was the most beautiful land view I ever beheld. The 
Maharajah is a lucky man, with heaven for his winter, and the seventh heaven for 
his summer capital." 

The easiest way, however, into " the Happy Valley," is by way of Rawal Pindee 

1 60 



THE FUXJAB. 



and Murree ; and Mr. Anthony Shiell has given us a graphic account of the journey. 
The distance is a hundred and sixty miles, occupying five days on pony, and two by 
boat (doongah) on the river. The vale of Kashmir is an oval, a hundred miles 
long and twenty-five broad, traversed by the Jhelum and fringed by glens and 
minor valleys, encompassed by the snow-wall of the Himalaya. Midway is the 
capital, Srinagur, with a population of 150,000. It lies upon a flat, intersected by 
canals, diversified by orchards, and lined by stately poplars. It is, like Venice, 
a city of canals, and a city of bridges — " Kandals " as they are called — quaint struc- 
tures, centuries old, of "the incorruptible Himalayan cedar, the invaluable deodara.'' 
There are two lakes, one celebrated for its historic and poetic associations, the other 
for the snowy mountains 
which it reflects. The river 
Jhelum forms the main 
thoroughfare of the city. 
Buildings cluster on either 
side down to the water's 
edge, mostly high four- 
storied wooden houses with 
pent roofs, overlaid with 
earth, which is clothed with 
grass and other plants ; and 
broad flights of stone steps 
lead down to the stream. 
The narrow streets are lit- 
tle better than the beds of 
open sewers. The panor- 
ama of mountains from the 
splintered crests of Pir 
Panjal on the south, to the 
broad brow of hoary Hara- 

mook on the north, and the snowy summit of " the Naked Mountain," is mag- 
nificent. The hill called " The Throne of Solomon," six thousand two hundred 
and sixty-three feet above the sea, and a thousand feet above the valley, has a 
stone Buddhist temple on the top, now converted into a mosque. The panor- 
amic view from this point is very grand of Peri Mahal Fort, Apple-tree Canal, 
and Poplar Avenue, and of the city lake, with the gardens, summer-houses, and 
fountains, where lay the scene of Lalla Rookh. To the west lies Gulmarg, a 
favorite sanitarium, on a mountain common high up the hills, three thousand feet 
above Srinagur, the air cold, bracing, and salubrious, and the plateau surrounded by 
forests of pine. Forty miles to the east and up the Himalayas is the cave of 
Ambernath, a place of pilgrimage sacred to Siva, who is said " to have had the cool- 
ness to assume" the form of a block of ice and to take up his abode here. The 
cave is visited by thousands of pilgrims in July. It lies far up the Laddar Valley, 
sixteen thousand feet above the sea. It is of gypsum, fifty yards deep and fifty 
wide, thirty yards high. The scenery is of titanic splendor, and there is a noble glacier, 
Avith red sandstone serrated cliffs rising one thousand feet on either side the defile. 
From the railway at Umballa you drive northward thirty-eight miles In Tonga 

161 




BAS-RET.IEFS IN THE MUSEUM, Pr.SHAWAK. 



THE P UN JAB. 

Dak — a covered spring-cart drawn by a pair of ponies, with a center-board which 
divides the two front from the two back passengers — to Kalka, from which place 
there are two roads, the old road and the new road, to Simla. The old road is a 
difficult mountain path, up which, if you are not carried in a sort of a sedan, called 




AWi^taTiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiimiiiiiiiiii III 

BAS-RELIEFS IN THE MUSEUM, PESHAWAR. 



" a jampan," you had better ride or walk. The views are commanding all the 
way. The new road is a masterpiece of engineering, cut out of the sides of the 
mountains, and supported in many places by massive walls. The gradients are 
nicely adjusted, and you can drive the fifty-seven miles in eight hours by Tonga 
Delk. Simla is seven thousand feet above the sea, and fir-clad Jacko eight thousand. 
What with graceful deodaras, firs, oaks, rhododendrons, the magnificent scenery, 
162 



THE PUNJAB. 

and the snow panorama, Simla is exceedingly beautiful. The rain and mist in June 
and July are dismal in the extreme; but from October the weather is enchanting. 
Simla is the seat of the Supreme Government for half the year, " where it slumbers 
with a revolver under its pillow " ; and it is therefore a place full of caste and cost, 
a sort of Indian Olympus, from whose heights the officials living at Government 
expense look down with disdain upon the toilers in the plains beneath. It may be 




FLOATING GARDENS, LAKE OF SRINAGUR 



called a third heaven of flirtation and fashion. Indeed, one part is called Elysium. 
It is, as we say, "out of the world"; but it seems, when you get there, as if the 
world with its pomps and vanities had been caught up hither out of the world. It is 
an Indian Capua. You look over a billowy sea of hills to the great snowy range fifty 
miles away, its icy pinnacles glistening in the silent air as far as the eye can reach. 
The bazaar slopes gradually down the valle)'. The snows as seen from Simla are 
not so striking ; but from neighboring mountains, such as the Chore summit, the 
sacred sources of the Ganges can be seen, as represented by domes, towers, and pin- 

163 



THE PUNJAB. 

nacles of dazzling snow. It is a glorious tour, occupying about a month to go from 
Simla by Kotgur, where the Church Mission has a station, over the Burunghatti, 
fifteen thousand feet above the sea level. 

Landour, which is the oldest of the hill stations, lies about a hundred miles 
east of Simla, and is usually approached by way of Saharunpore, from which rail- 
way station an omnibus runs along a well-metaled, shaded, undulating road, across 
the Sewalic range and dipping into a lovely valley, the Deyra Doon, to Rajpore. 
From Rajpore the remaining nine miles may be accomplished on foot, by pony, or 
in jampan. The road passes over deep precipices, and troops of monkeys, and here 
and there peacocks, may be seen as we climb. Passing through Mussoorie — some- 
times called the Ramsgate of India — we reach Landour, on the crest of the moun- 
tain. There is not an acre of level land in view. It is a simple line of peaks, but 
every rock on which a house could be fastened has been seized upon, until villages 
of considerable size have sprung up. Roads, houses, and gardens have ingeniously 



SHOPS, SRINAGUR, KASHMIR. 

been cut or scooped out of the hill-sides. Some white cottages cling like limpets to 
the ledges. The magnificent views have been thus described : " On one side lies the 
Deyra Doon, one of the fairest valleys in all the East, smiling in its verdure and 
foliage, although it was now mid-winter. Farther on is the Sewalic range of the 
Himalayas, and still farther, in full view, the great plain of India, fifteen hundred 
miles in extent, with the silver threads of the Jumna and Ganges. On the opposite 
side, toward the northeast, separated by a confused mass of mountain, much of 
which is densely wooded, peak after peak of the snowy range, stretching out into 
Thibet and Kashmir, lifts its snowy head into the clouds." We are in the presence 
of the highest mountains on the globe, on the border of that table-land which the 
Arabs call " the roof of the world." Wilson, the author of The Abode of Snow, 
says : " There is nothing in the Alps which can afford even a faint idea of the 
savage desolation and appalling sublimity of many of the Himalayan scenes. No- 
where have the faces of the rocks been so scarred and riven by the nightly action of 
164 



THE PUNJAB. 

frost and the mid-day floods from melting snow. In almost every valley we see 
places where vi^hole peaks or sides of great mountains have recently come shatter- 
ing down." The climate of Landour is delightful ; " its warmth," says the Eastern 
proverb, "is not heat, its coolness is not cold." Perhaps the purest air breathed by 
man is found in the Himalayas, close to the snows, and at Landour it is almost as 
good, except where tainted by man. It is said to be the very best place in India for 
European children. 

The hill stations for the Punjab are Dharmsala and Dalhousie. Dharmsala is 




SIMLA. 



noted for excessive rains. In other parts of the Himalayas the effect of the snow 
mountains is softened by intermediate ranges, but here they seem almost to over- 
hang the spectator. Looking up from Kangra, the lower hills are like ripples on 
the sea, and the eye rests on the sublime titanic rocks, sharp cut against the sky. 
The winding streams, the irrigated valley, — said to be next to Kashmir in beautj^ — 
the bamboo clumps, the branching oaks, the stately pines, the blooming rhododendra, 
the ruins of hill castles, the towering old Kangra Fort, combine to make this one of 
the most fascinating hill stations in India. Nothing can be more impressive than 
the hills and mountains here lit up in solitary splendor and savage beauty by the 
crimson glory of an autumn sunset. The cold gray rocks become rose pink, and as 

165 



THE P UN JAB. 





<' '^n < Ti. , ^^ 1 



J 


J 






-J 


,vv^ 




J, 




r 


c-V 


^•-•k/' 




\ v-V; 



t'^s,*^ 







this fades the silvery moon sheds her sheen 
over the valley and the fir-clad hills, realizing 
the sad solemnity of the most impressive 
funeral. 



Here Lord Elgin sickened and died 



in 1863. 



Dalhousie is still farther to the northwest, and is by some reckoned as the 
best of the hill stations, but to reach it involves a long and fatiguing journey from 
Amritsar. It spreads over three hills, the highest of which is nearly eight thousand 
feet above the sea. Beyond is a charming and well-wooded forest, while the famous 
Needle Rock, the highest of the peaks here visible, rises to the height of twenty-one 
thousand feet. 



166 




TOPE OF SANCHI, NORTHERN GATE. 



I68 




PALACE OK BIRSING DEO, AND LAKE DATTIA. 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 



MOUNT ABU UDAIPUR AND CIIITTORE AJMERE JAIPUR 

GHUR SAXCHI P.HOPAI,. 



■AI.WAR — GWALIOR SONA- 



THE large district of Rajputana, made up of eighteen different native states, with 
a population of eleven millions, is traversed from northeast to southwest by a 
system of mountains called the Aravalis, west of which is desert, and east lie a num- 
ber of interesting cities. A railway now runs from Delhi along the mountain ranges, 
and joins tne Baroda line from the south. The Agent of the British Government 
lives at Mount Abu, which rises five thousand feet above the sandy plain, and 
incloses a lovely valley and a small lake called the Pearl Lake. This is a majestic 
hill sacred both for Hindus and for Jains; and they have here four temples ar- 
ranged in the form of a cross, built of white marble brought from a distance, and dat- 
ing as far back as the eleventh century. That built by the Prince Vincala Sah, 
though plain outside, is magnificent within, but bearing marks of decay. It contains 
a colossal statue of the deified coryphsus of the Jains Parswanatha. 

Eastward from Mount Abu is Udaipur, situated on a low ridge, with two summer 
tanks, one of which faces the city and reflects its palaces. There are a few islands, 
on which are built handsome residences. Looking from the east, the palace, built of 

169 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 

granite, a hundred feet high, overlooks the lake and the city. It is considered one 
of the finest buildings in Rajputana, and is sometimes compared to Windsor. 

Eastward again from Udaipur is the ancient capital, Chittore, whose fortress 
is conspicuous from afar, perched upon a lofty rock, which stretches northward about 
two miles, forming a plateau, still covered with the remains of departed splendor. 
Chittore was long the stronghold of Hindu independence against the wave of Mo- 
hammedan conquest. Its prince was called the Rana. Three times it was besieged 
and sacked. First in a. d. 1300, when Ala-ud-din volunteered to raise the siege, pro- 
vided the Rana's wife, the beautiful Pudmani, were surrendered to him. She stipu- 
lated to enter the conqueror's camp attended by the ladies of her household. On 
the appointed day seven hundred litters accompanied her, each litter carried by 
six armed soldiers, disguised as porters, and containing not ladies, but warriors armed 
to the teeth. A bloody fray ensued, but the plot failed, the husband and wife 
escaped, and the siege was renewed ; and rather than surrender, thousands of the 
wives and daughters of the inhabitants performed \}i\^ johui'-, i. e., immolated them- 
selves upon burning piles of timber, while the men rushed out of the city and perished 
sword in hand. The second siege was under the Sultan of Guzerat, in 1533, when 
the women performed 3.x\ot\\eT jo/mr. The princess before dying sent her bracelet 
as a challenge to Humayun to be her avenger. He afterward fulfilled the pledge 
and restored the Rana. The third and final siege was in 1567, by the famous Ak- 
bar. The women again threw themselves on burning piles, while the men put on saf- 
fron garments and perished sword in hand. Chittore was thenceforward deserted, 
and the Rana sought refuge in the Aravali Hills, and founded Udaipur. 

Within the ruined fortress are several antique buildings. Besides the palace of 
the Rana, which was a plain building, are two vast temples with tanks or reservoirs. 
Inscriptions upon them state that they were built out of the ruins of former temples 
brought from Nagara, five miles north. The most striking of the two is the Temple 
of Vriji. The style of architecture is good, and the masonry excellent. Perhaps the 
most singular building among the ruins is the Pillar of Victory, erected in 1439, by 
the Rana. It stands on a platform fourteen yards square, and is a hundred and fifty 
feet high. There are nine stories, and on the summit is a lantern tower and a dome. 
The whole is one mass of elaborate sculpture in white marble, representing various 
subjects in Hindu mythology. The tower commands a glorious view of the country 
round. 

A railway is being constructed which runs northward from Indore through 
Chittore to Ajmere, and joins the Rajputana line. Ajmere is a city of great antiquity 
and interest, surrounded by a wall with five strong gateways in a beautiful style of 
architecture. It is in a lovely valley with a magnificent lake. The modern streets 
have noble buildings, and the ancient narrow bazaars remind one of Cairo. The 
Dargah, or shrine of the Mohammedan Khwaja Sahib, stands at the end of a long 
broad bazaar; and behind, to the northeast, rises Taragar, a hill about one thousand 
feet above the valley, on the lower part of which are the remains of a Jain temple, 
converted into a mosque, called "the mosque of two days and a half," because it 
probably just took this length of time to knock off the heads of the pillars on the 
columns, and to destroy the memorials of the former worship. The roof is supported 
by four rows of graceful pillars, all carved in patterns up to the very top ; and the 
celling is covered with various designs, the lotus flower being frequent, indicating its 

170 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 

connection with Buddhism. In Ajmere are the winter quarters of the Government 
Agent for Rajputana. Mayo College is intended for the education of the upper 
classes belonging to the various native states. 

The railway now brings us northward eighty miles from Ajmere to Jaipur, one 
of the most enlightened of the Rajputana states. The city dates from 1730, when 
the government was removed from the old capital Amber, five miles distant. Here 
there is a collegiate institution for the training of native youths, and a school of art 
in connection with it. The houses are stuccoed and painted in pink and white, and 
the public gardens are tastefully laid out. The neighborhood abounds in game. 




TOMB AT ALWAR, RAJPUTANA. 



The streets are wide, the houses two stories high, the second story having only loop- 
holes, throuo-h which the women can look without being seen. The dresses of the 
people are gay and varied, the colors brilliant. The view of the old town of Amber 
from the Durbar Hall is very beautiful.' When the Prince of Wales was at Jaipur, 
the Mohammedan festival of the Moharrem was celebrated Avith great pomp. This 
festival is in memory of the martyrdom of the sons of Ali, the immediate descendants 
of the Prophet, who were put to death by rival claimants to the headship of Islam. 
The dress of the women in Rajputana is thus described by a lady writer : " The 

' Visitors are furnished elephants by the king of Jeypore and enjoy a four-miles ride, attended by his servants, among 
whom a rupee divided will prove generous compensation. — Ed. 

171 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 

Hindu women wear petticoats; the Mohammedans rather tight trousers, with scarfs 
of brilliantly-colored muslin over their heads and bodies ; many bracelets of glass, 
silver, or lead, reaching nearly to the elbow, with an armlet above ; ear-rings all round 
the ears, seven, ten, or more ; large anklets of silver or lead ; toe-rings that jingle as 
they shuffle along, their feet bare, of course." On the borders of Jaipur is the Sambar 
Salt Lake ; and salt is manufactured by evaporation all over this part of Rajputana. 

From Jaipur northward, a hundred miles by rail, we reach Alwar, on the way 
to Delhi, which stands two thousand feet above the sea level, with tooth-like hills of 
quartz and slate, crowned with forts. The Rajah's palace faces these hills, and from 
a window at the back you look out upon a tank, on the opposite side of which is a 
series of small temples, and on the left, or south, the tomb of Baktawar Sing, erected 
within the present century, of white marble upon a platform of rose-colored sandstone. 
It affords a good specimen of the foliated arch. The singular dome terminates in a 
massive stone pinnacle. On the north there rises a fantastic hill a thousand feet high, 
with blocks of marble interspersed among trees, and crowned by a castle. The whole 
scene, in its still calm, the buildings mirrored in the water below, looks so unlike a 
bit of the common world, so picture-like, as seen out of that small opening, that one 
almost expects to see it disappear as in a panorama, and another picture take its 
place. The story is told that the Government Agent proposed to plant an avenue 
of pipal trees {Fictis religiosd), considered sacred by the Hindus, on either side the 
road in front of the shops ; but the Bun^iiahs, or native shopkeepers, one and all 
declared that if this were done they would not take the shops ; and when pressed for 
a reason, replied that " it was because they could not tell untruths or swear falsely 
under their shade," adding, "and how can we carry on business otherwise?" The 
force of this argument seems to have been acknowledged, as the point was yielded, 
and other trees have been planted instead. The pipal is regarded as occupied by 
the gfod Brahma, and it is sometimes invested with the sacred thread, as if it were a 
real person. The planting of it is accompanied by a religious ceremony, and the 
prayer offered, " O Vishnu ! grant that for planting this tree I may continue as many 
years in heaven as this tree shall remain growing in the earth." It is never injured, 
cut down, or burnt by devout Hindus ; but the proximity of the tree does not always 
guarantee truthfulness. The aborigines of the Central Provinces are called Gonds, 
a very peculiar race, with black skin, thick lips, and flat nose, and wearing for clothing 
only the loin-cloth. They are of dirty habits, tatooed, and a~ddicted to drinking. 
As to their religion. Dr. Hunter tells us that "they worship cholera and small-pox, 
and to appease the v^rrath of these divinities they offer sacrifices ; cleaning their 
villages, they place the sweepings on a road or track, in the hope that some traveler 
will be infected, and so convey the disease away into another village." 

East of Rajputana is the Central India Agency, with a population of eight 
millions, embracing not fewer than seventy different states, the chief of which are 
Gwalior, Indore, Bhopal, Rewah, and Bundelcund. They all formed part of the 
extensive Mahratta kingdom, which stretched from Gwalior as far south as Goa. 
The Mahrattas are supposed to have been among the original tribes of India, 
driven south by the Aryans. They were a bold and industrious race, husbandmen, 
for the most part strong and self-reliant ; and they appear in history first under 
Sivaji, who united the several tribes in a valiant crusade against the Mogul con- 
querors of India, and maintained the conflict with unflinching courage till his death, 

172 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 

in 1680. The Mahrattas are born horsemen ; they ride sturdy ponies, and show 
great skill and bravery as skirmishers. They not only checked, but in effect sub- 
dued the Mohammedan power, which declined from the time of Sivaji. In his rule 
the Brahman element was strong, and to the Peishwas the military authority was 
subservient. One of these Peishwas raised the Scindia family of Mahrattas to the 




SCULPTUKEU CAVE IN GWALIUK. 



highest place as military leaders, and under them the Mahrattas were found to be 
formidable foes, even by well-equipped English troops. Their capital is still 
GwALiOR, with its huge isolated rock, three hundred feet high, with perpendicular 
sides, and a mile and a half long, impregnable against any native force. On the 
summit is King Pal, a fortress and palace in one, as if growing out of the rock ; 
and farther on the huge temple of Adinath, a striking specimen of Jain architecture. 
In the center is the Vihara Temple, conspicuous from afar, dating probably from 
the eleventh century, and now a hundred and twenty feet high, though probably it 

173 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 

was in its complete state much higher. On the west of the plateau the rock is split 
into a deep, narrow gorge, full of curious carvings on either side ; chiefly colossal 
figures with sphinx-like faces representing Adinath, thirty-five feet high, and other 
Tirthankars, or Jain deities. Above each statue is a canopy of richly carved stone. 
Jainism prevails in these districts, and was by some viewed as an offshoot of Bud- 
dhism ; but it is now generally regarded as having an independent origin, dating 
back as far as Buddhism itself. It lays great stress upon the doctrine of transmigra- 
tion, and care for animal life is carried to an absurd length. The Jains retain caste 
distinctions, and are divided into two sects, the "clothed in white," and the "sky- 
clothed." Their sacred books are called Agamas. Though they dissent from the 
Veda, they call themselves Hindus. They pay great reverence to any Jina, or 
" conquering saint," who by long discipline aims at Divine perfection. 

BuNDELcuND, which lies to the east, is the classic land of brigandism, and in its 
somber forests was born the terrible religion of the Thugs. It is one of the least 
known parts of India. Its capital is Duttiah, and to the west of this city stands the 
palace of Birsing-Deo, a square block of building (see p. 169), each side of which is 
a hundred yards long and ninety feet high. The whole is of granite, built upon a 
vaulted terrace. The rooms are large, but badly lighted. Everything is somber and 
massive, like a keep, and it is abandoned to the bats and the owls. Its gardens lead 
down to the lake, which, with its tombs opposite, presents a very striking and inter- 
esting picture. One of the most famous places of pilgrimage for the Jains of Central 
India is Sonaghur, "the golden mountain." On the road from Dattia the hills pre- 
sent the appearance of broken pyramidal blocks of granite, and some like cromlechs 
and Druidical remains in single huge blocks. Many of these monoliths are wor- 
shiped as lingas, and are smeared with red ochre. Sonaghur rises in strange and 
picturesque outline, a granite hill, with large loose masses of primitive rock, among 
which stand from eighty to a hundred temples of various shapes and sizes, with bul- 
bous domes, and copied in some degree from Moslem art. There is no vegetation ; 
the rocks are bare, and look as if they would fall upon and crush the buildings, which 
are inhabited only by a few Jain monks. A pretty little village, half hidden in trees, 
lies at the foot of the hill. 

One of the most interesting collections of Buddhist remains is found at Sanchi, 
in the neighborhood of Bhilsa, and in the district of Bhopal. The small village of 
Sanchi is on the ridge of a sandstone hill, five miles from Bhilsa and twenty miles 
northeast from the town of Bhopal. The hill is fiat-topped and isolated, with a 
steep cliff eastward. Its height is three hundred feet, the rock is light red sand- 
stone, and the ruins are on the top. They lie so remote from the sweep of Moham- 
medan and British conquest that they have escaped the damage and destruction 
that have befallen many Indian monuments of antiquity. They consist mainly of 
topes, or stupas, i.e., huge hemispherical mounds usually raised in early Buddhism to 
mark the place of relics or graves. There are upward of twenty-five within a dis- 
tance of ten miles. They were doubtless raised by King Asoka, or Mahinda, his son ; 
and perhaps the great tope may be a monument in remembrance of Asoka's wife, 
the royal mother of Mahinda. It has been dug into, and is found solid, nothing but 
bricks laid in mud, save the layers of smooth stones covered with plaster on the out- 
side surface. No relics have been discovered. Topes were built by forced labor, 
the foundations being trodden firm by elephants. This tope is almost hemispherical, 
a hundred and six feet in diameter at the base, and forty-two feet in height. The 

174 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 





Ill 









VIHII 



hemisphere stands upon a base twelve feet high and forming a path seven feet wide, 
with a staircase, up which it is supposed processions used to walk on festival occa- 
sions. The circumference of the 



building is five hundred and fifty 
feet. It has a stone railing, nine 
feet high, mortised and fitted like 
those at Stonehencre. There are 
four gateways, facing the four points 
of the compass. The red sandstone 
has been used for all the topes, 
where hardness was required, and in 
the gateways, a fine white sandstone 
from a place three miles ofl was 
employed. Three of these gateways 
were standing thirty years ago, but 
one w^as knocked down by some 
clumsj'- Englishmen ; and only two, 
the east gate and the north gate, 
now remain. The east gate has been 



23 









r 
t 



C 

> 




modeled for South Kensington Museum. The Northern Gate is the finest and 
most elaborate, its height is thirty-five feet, and its extreme width is twenty 
feet. Two vertical monoliths, eighteen feet high, support a third placed horizon- 

175 



RAJPUTANA AND CENTRAL INDIA AGENCY. 

tally and mortised in like woodwork, and somewhat resembling the Torii in 
Japan. Above this, two small blocks support a second horizontal monolith, and 
again two blocks support the topmost horizontal stone. The whole is elaborately 



w- 



?' <% 











THE MOHARREM IN BHOHAL. 



carved, back and front, with sculptures supposed to represent scenes from the life of 
Buddha. If so, the scenes must be from Buddha's life before he became an ascetic, 
for drinking and love-making are portrayed, several nude female figures are intro- 
duced, and imaees of the gfoddess Devi, the wife of Vishnu. The emblems on the 
top closely resemble those of Dharma and Juggernaut. 
176 




BHORE GHAT RAILWAY. 



BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 



JABALPUR, AJANTA, AND ELURA BOMBAY CAVES OF ELEPHANTA, KENNERY, KARLI 

MATAERAN POONA MAHABLESHWAR — SURAT BARODA KUTCH SINDE. 

THE tourist across India from Allahabad to Bombay, or vice versa, usually breaks 
the long railway journey (eight hundred and fifty miles and thirty-six hours) at 
Jabalpur, a large and flourishing city in the Central Provinces, in order to visit the 
Marble Rocks, one of the most remarkable scenes of natural beauty to be found in 
India. Jabalpur is two hundred and thirty miles from Allahabad and a thousand 
feet above the sea. It is overlooked by a range of hills, consisting of granite, 
gneiss, hornblende, dolomite, and always covered with verdure. The Marble Rocks 
are eleven miles from Jabalpur. On the way you pass Mudden Mahal, with curious 
hills commanding an extensive view of Jabalpur and the country round, and crowned 
with a ruined temple on the top of a huge black bowlder, while about the base are 
numerous tanks and mango groves. At the Marble Rocks the deep blue Narbada 
for two miles flows between two radiant snow-white walls, a hundred feet in height. 
The river, now entering the gorge with a leap, has excavated this deep channel for 
itself, and can be traversed in a flat-bottomed boat, which is rowed or poled along as 

I7q 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

far as the cascade. The rocks rise precipitously from the water, and are in parts 
extremely white, seamed by veins of dark green or black volcanic rock. The boat 
passes through the gradually contracting gorge, amid the hum of bees, the chatter- 
ing of monkeys, and the rustling of forest leaves. Above the rocks the river is a 
hundred yards broad ; here it is compressed into some twenty yards ; it has a great 
depth, and glides very smoothly. When a full, strong light from sun or moon is 
thrown upon the rocks above, the combined effect of the marble and its reflection is 
quite dazzling. The play of light forms a striking contrast with the deep hues of 
the waters ; by moonlight the rocks look ghostlike and mysterious. But the place 
is not free from danger. High up above you hang from the cliffs the semicircular 
combs of bees, which infest the gorge, and which, if disturbed by the firing of a gun 
or otherwise, swarm down upon the intruders, and there is no means of avoiding 
their cruel stings. Nevertheless the natives, by means of bamboo ladders suspended 
from the cliffs, manage at night to smother the bees with torches, and to rob the 
honey. On the summit of a low hill, overlooking the Marble Rocks, there are sev- 
eral Hindu Sivoid temples, and the Hindus still hold annually a religious gather- 
ing and a fair, attended by thousands during the moonlight of November. 

In the neighborhood of Jabalpur are the Mopani coal-fields and mines of 
haematite ore ; but the amount of coal raised is not more than about a thousand 
tons per month, and even when sold at ten rupees a ton, barely covers working 
expenses. In the Bombay Presidency English coal is used, and of course the prices 
are very high. Few stations in India can show such majestic mango trees as Jabal- 
pur ; and it is remarkable for its pine-apples. The bamboo thickets of the higher 
hills, with their light feathery foliage, beautifully supplement the heavier masses of 
the sal that climb their skirts. The graciousness of nature in furnishing such plenti- 
ful shade cannot but be admired. Just at the time when the face of the country 
begins to quiver in the fierce sun and burning blasts of April, the banyan and peepul 
figs and the ever-present mango throw out a fresh crop of leaves ; those of the 
banyan being then, moreover, charged with a thick milky juice that forms an im- 
penetrable non-conductor to the sun's rays. 

These are in substance the observations of the late Captain Forsyth, who spent 
a considerable time in the Narbada Valley. While a keen observer of nature, he was 
an ardent sportsman, and has left us some interesting facts relating to the tiger, the 
inhabitant of the Indian jungle, and the devastator of the country in days gone by. 
Though tiger-hunting is inferior, as a mere exercise or an effort of skill, to some 
other pursuits, yet it furnishes a test of coolness and nerve ; and there is an excite- 
ment unsurpassed in attacking an animal before whom every other beast of the forest 
quails, and unarmed man is helpless as the mouse under the paw of a cat. It is dif- 
ficult to get information from natives as to the whereabouts of tigers. The hunter 
and his train of overbearing, swindling servants are shunned by the poor inhabitants. 
The tiger himself is, in fact, far more endurable than those who, encamping against 
him, demand grain and other supplies, and force the natives to beat for the tiger, 
with a considerable chance of getting killed, and very little chance of being paid for 
theii* services. The native, moreover, regards the tiger as a sort of protector, de- 
stroying the wild animals which feed upon the crops. The confirmed man-eater, 
however, is a deadly foe, and much real courage is shown in tiger-hunting, when it is 
not carried on in large multitudinous companies. 

l8o 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 



Tigers are now very much rarer to meet with than they once were, when Govern- 
ment offered a reward for each tiger's head sufficient to maintain a peasant's family 
in comfort for three months. All this is now changed, and it is a frequent complaint 
that one can so seldom get a shot at a tiger. The only animal, says Dr. W. W. Hunter, 
that has defied the energy of the British official is the snake. The ascertained num- 
ber of persons who died from snake-bite in 1875 was seventeen thousand, out of a 
total of twenty-one thousand three hundred and ninety-one killed by snakes and all 
other wild animals.' 

Leaving Jabalpur, the great Indian Peninsula Railway conveys us through the 
picturesque valley of the Narbada, wild, woody, uncultivated, and thinly peopled. 
The railway stations are like oases, few and 
distant from each other, bright with flowers, 
and well supplied with refreshments, in the 
midst of jungle. At Khandwa, the branch 
line to Indore turns northward toward Delhi, 
opening up a very fertile and productive 
country for cotton, tobacco, and opium. In- 
dore itself is an ill-built city with a few mos- 
ques, but with little to demand the tourist's 
attention. The large military cantonment of 
Mhow, about twelve miles southwest from 
Indore, is quite a European town. Fifty 
miles farther on along the main line, we come 
to the branch for Nagpur, a straggling city in 
a swampy hollow, but much improved by 
tanks and watercourses, and the largest city 
in the Central Provinces. Nine miles from 
Nagpur is the cantonment of Kamthi. 

In order to visit the famous caves of 
Ajanta and Elura, we take a slow train from 
Bhosawal to Pachora, from which the caves 
are about thirty-two miles distant. Visitors 

from Bombay usually leave the train at Nandgaon. The Buddhist caves at 
Ajanta, in a deep glen, penetrating far into the mountain, are twenty-nine in number, 
with fresco paintings on the walls and ceilings, illustrative of the religious and social 
life of the people when Buddhism still flourished. None of the caves are high, and 
there is nothing imposing connected with them. The principal object within is either 
a Chaitya, a Dagoba, i.e., relic-shrine, or an image of Buddha. In some of the rock- 
temples here, as may be seen in the illustration, the older Buddhism had disappeared, 
and Brahmanism had begun to reassert its sway. Instead of paintings, we find 
sculptures and images not of Buddha only, but of Hindu gods and goddesses. It is 
supposed that this revolution in religious belief was commenced before the fourth 
century of our era, and indeed that images of Buddha were hardly known in India 
nor worshiped after the seventh century. The series of excavations extends along 
the face of a tall cliff for a distance of five hundred yards ; and some of the caverns 

' In 18S2 there were 895 lives sacrificed by tigers, and 16,517 cattle ; also, 114 persons were killed by bears, 60 by elephants. 
In 1880 there were 10,064 persons who died from snake-bites. — Ed. 

181 




BUDDHA. 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

are a hundred feet deep and forty wide. Below them is a beautiful waterfall, which, 
bounds from rock to rock from a height of three hundred feet, and the glen is green 
and shady with forest trees and numerous creepers. 

We pursue our way from Ajanta by road to Aurangabad, near which is the far- 
famed fortress of Doulatabad, an extraordinary hill, consisting of a huge conical rock 
five hundred feet high, and cut perpendicular all around for a height of forty yards, 
A winding passage inside leads first to a chamber and then to the summit, which is 
occupied by the fortress. Leaving this place, we ascend the Ghat, or mountain-ridge, 
to Roza, where, on the plateau, we see several Mohammedan tombs, one of which 
has been converted into a bungalow. Descending the Ghat on the other side, we 
reach the caves of Elura, situated near the base of a crescent-shaped range of hills 
six hundred feet high. There are thirty caves, of which ten are Buddhist, toward 
the south, the most ancient ; fourteen Brahmanical, in the center, the most elaborate ; 
and six Jaina, northward. They are cut in greenstone rock, and extend a mile and a 
half along the amphitheater. Cascades fall in front of the caves, and the base of the 
mountain is frinred with brushwood and trees. The best time for a visit is after the 
rains, when the country is green and the waterfalls full. The Kailas, or Paradise 
Cave, is the most wonderful. Within a pit is an entire temple cut out of the solid 
rock, a monolithic Brahmanical temple of the eighth century, with columns and walls 
elaborately carved, and a pyramidal spire over the shrine. Dr. Wilson, of Bombay, 
when he visited this cave, preached the gospel in it to a congregation of thirty 
natives. " Some of our auditors," he says, " pointed to the magnificent arches and 
stupendous figures around us, as the very works of God's own hand ; but we pointed 
them to the marks of the instrument of the mason, to the innumerable proofs 
of decay everywhere exhibited, and to the unsuitableness, absurdity, and impiety 
of the representations. They could not resist our appeal. Little did the formers 
of this wonderful structure anticipate an event of this kind. We were probably 
the first messengers of peace who have declared within it the claims of 
Jehovah." 

Resuming our railway journey toward Bombay at Nandgaum, we make another 
halt sixty miles farther on at Nassick, which lies at the foot of the great Western 
Ghats on their eastern side, where the Godavery rises. Nassick is called the 
Benares of Western India, and is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Godavery, 
which here is broad but shallow, and lined with temples. The country is fertile and 
well wooded ; the town is eighteen hundred feet above the sea, and its advantages 
are so great that Sir G. Campbell seriously proposed to make it the capital of India. 
Its population is thirty-five thousand, including ten thousand Brahmans. There is 
a very pleasant excursion to Gungapore, eight miles farther up the Godavery, where 
there are nine temples and a pretty waterfall ; but the chief sight is the Buddhist 
caves of Pandu Lena, running round a conical hill five miles from the town. 
They are seventeen in number, and were excavated in the fourth century of our 
era, though, from an inscription over the entrance of one of them, it seems to bear 
date B. c. 129. The mountains round are very majestic, but everything is so 
associated with the reigning superstition, that one of these is called the Bed of 
Rama, its summit being a table-land. The river is an object of great attraction, 
and besides the great Rama-Kunda, or pool for bathing, there are eleven other 
pools, sacred to some of the gods. The Church Mission has established here an 

182 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

industrial settlement, called Sharanpur, or " city of refuge," where there is a Chris- 
tian congregation, schools, an orphanage, and an asylum. 

And now, resuming our journey along the main line, we see our way blocked 
up by rocks ahead ; and the apparently impassable barrier of the Western Ghats, 
which runs parallel to the west coast of India northward from the Nilgiri Hills, 
rises in all its majesty before us. But the iron horse gradually winds its way snake- 




STREET IN BOMBAY. 



like, now round this shoulder, and now across that ravine, till at length we are on 
the top of the ridge of the ThuU Ghat. The line curves round precipices like the 
worm of a screw, while you look out on one side of the carriage at the overhanging 
rocks, and on the other see below the deep ravine with its roaring torrent. It is a 
noble piece of engineering. The incline is nine miles long, with many zigzags and 
thirteen tunnels. The sharpest curve is one of seventeen chains radius, and 
the maximum gradient is one in thirty-seven. There are fifteen bridges and six 
viaducts. The descent down the sea-face of the ThuU Ghat is very fine. Lofty 
clilTs, green slopes, wooded gorges, roaring streams, forests of palm and teak, 
aromatic groves — combine to present a picture of grandeur and loveliness. At 

l83 



BO MB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

length we reach the Konkan, the level strip of country intervening between the 
mountains and the sea ; and passing through Tanna, on the Island of Salsette, we 
arrive at the terminus in Bombay. 

How grateful is the sweet smell of the sea and its refreshing breeze, after three 
thousand miles of inland travel and several weeks of inland sojourn in North India! 
And these breezes, Bombay — " fair haven," as the name signifies — enjoys in double 
measure, for it is a city built upon a chain of islands, branching out southward 
from the mainland, and inclosing a splendid harbor of forty square miles. The 
fort was ceded by the Portuguese, in 1661, to Charles II., who handed it over to ■^he 
East India Company in 166S for an annual rent of "ten pounds in gold." Owing 
to the increased growth of Indian cotton, and still more to the opening of the Suez 
Canal, Bombay has rapidly grown during the present century into a city of seven 
hundred thousand inhabitants. Of these four hundred thousand are Hindus, one 
hundred and fifty thousand Mohammedans, fifty thousand Parsis, and the remainder 
Jains, Eurasians, and Europeans. The variety of nationality and costume is per- 
haps more striking here than anywhere else in India. Crowds of coolies, or labor- 
ers, with their dark skins, turbaned heads, and the strip of cloth around their loins, 
native women, graceful in figure and features, decked out in many colors — crimson 
and white and yellow, orange, green, and blue — with heavy bracelets on arms and 
ankles ; Parsis, with white garments and dark towering- hats, and Mohammedans, 
proud and stately, all bustling along beneath the tropical sun, and in an atmosphere 
transparent and bright, present a scene most picturesque and exhilarating.' The 
native town stretches northward, and here is the center of trade. There is, how- 
ever, no distinctively European quarter in Bombay, Englishmen and natives having 
their offices side by side. Southward, beyond the Green, is the Fort, now no 
longer a fort, but an esplanade with leveled ramparts and with noble buildings — the 
new Secretariat, the new Post-office, the High Court, the University Library and 
Tower, all European in their style. Beyond these is the promontory of Lower 
Colaba, with mainly a seafaring population. 

To one coming for the first time into Bombay from the sea, it is a new sensa- 
tion to be in this Asiatic atmosphere, surrounded and waited upon by soft-footed 
Hindus, who glide about noiselessly like cats, watching every look, eager to antici- 
pate every wish ; indeed, you cannot enter the hotel without a dozen servants rising 
to their feet and making salaams with profound reverence, as you pass. But one 
soon learns to accept these obeisances, and to play the English grandee. Native 
service in India is so cheap that every Englishman has his attendants; and no 
sooner does the youth, who at home was wont to do everything for himself, set foot 
here, than he discovers that, by virtue of his belonging to the conquering race, he 
can hold his head high, smoke at leisure, and be waited upon by mild Hindus, 
making obeisance to him from the moment he rises in the morning till he is asleep 
at night. Nay, his servant, like a faithful dog, lies in readiness on the mat outside 
his door all through the night, and two others are pulling the punkah through the 
silent hours over sahib's head. He falls moreover into the habit of drinking 
" pegs," as drams of spirits with or without soda water are called. The name arose 
from the mode of marking, by pegs opposite his name, each soldier's allowance as 

' " Bombay is the fitting tlireshold of India, an inde^f, an illustrated catalogue of all the Eastern races." Edwin Lord Weeks. 
John Caird says in the Nineteenth Century that Bombay is the most picturesque city in India. — Ed. 
184 



BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 

he got it twice daily in the barrack canteen. An old officer, returning from the 
country, said to me, " I know no worse school for a young man than India. I have 
two nephews who have inherited land in Oude ; I am trying to persuade their 
guardians to sell the land there, and to buy farms for them in New Zealand or 
America. There they must learn industry and self-dependence. Here in India 
they learn to be haughty, idle, imperious, self-indulgent." This is the temptation, 
and this is the threatening danger; for the Hindu is not slow to perceive that by 




COTTON WEIGHING. 



hard taxation he really pays for the pomp and retinue of English officials, their 
incomes, from the Viceroy downward, being practically drawn from the sweat of his 
brow. But to the prevailing arrogance there are many noble exceptions, men who 
fear God, who respect the Hindu as a man, not merely regard him as a brute; who 
fulfill the duty for which they are paid by the people with conscientiousness and 
kindness; who eschew " pegs," and live temperate and pure lives; who treat the 
people with justice and humanity. These men are our strength in India. 

The favorite suburb for the wealthy is Malabar Hill, a lofty ridge about five 
hundred feet high, which stretches as a separate promontory for two miles out to 
sea in a southwesterly direction. This thickly-wooded ridge commands glorious 
views of the city and the ocean. It is dotted over with bungalows, shaded with 

185 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

palms, and embowered in tropical foliage. Here at evening, on the broad veran- 
das, the merchant or official, stretched in his long bamboo chair, can enjoy the cool 
ocean breeze. The Government bungalow is at the extreme point, and from it the 
drive of five miles down the slope and along the beach leads to the Apollo Bunder, 
where the fashion of Bombay drives in the afternoon until sunset, and gathers to 
the music of the band. The equipages of the wealthy Parsis and of the English 
residents sweep along with trails of native footmen. 

The Parsis, who are descendants of the ancient Persians, and who settled at 
Surat a thousand years ago, are now an intelligent and enterprising community, 
rivaling Europeans in opulence. Much of the mercantile business of the East is in 
their hands. They speak English with fluency, and in their schools English is uni- 
versally taught. As to religion, they are the followers of Zoroaster, whose precepts 
in the Zendavesta are summed up thus : " Good thoughts," " good words," " good 
deeds." Theoretically they claim to be monotheists, but they adore the four 
elements, fire, air, earth, and water ; they will not contaminate earth by any burial, 
nor fire by cremation. In their own cemetery on Malabar Hill are five mysterious 
stone receptacles for their dead, about eight yards high and twenty wide, called 
" Towers of Silence." Each tower possesses usually an extraordinary coping, not 
of dead stone but of living vultures. There they sit motionless, with their heads 
pointed inward. Inside each tower are a number of stone receptacles, like the 
spokes of a wheel pointing inward, open at the top and sloping toward the center, 
where is a deep well with charcoal and sand below. When a funeral occurs the 
body is brought to the bottom of the incline leading to the tower, and here the 
mourners retire, leaving the bearers to advance with their burden. The corpse is 
silently conveyed into the interior, laid uncovered in one of the open stone recep- 
tacles, and left there. Scarcely is the door closed when the vultures swoop down 
upon the body, and in five minutes the satiated birds fly back and settle down again 
upon the parapet. Meanwhile the mourners change their clothes, leaving their 
funeral garments behind them. The dry skeleton is afterward placed in the center 
well, gradually to disappear below. A Parsi merchant with whom I traveled for 
several days strongly vindicated this use of birds of prey, as reverential to the four 
sacred elements, as less revolting than worms, and as best contributing to the health 
of the living. The best account of Parseeism is Dr. Wilson's work. The Parsi 
Religion. Under his instruction several Parsis embraced Christianity, and two are 
now ordained missionaries. 

Besides the Grant Medical Hospital, so well known for its efficiency, may be 
named the Panjrapul, a hospital for diseased and decrepit animals. This has been 
founded and is supported mainly by the Jains, with whom tenderness for animal life 
is a distinguishing tenet. They are most careful lest they should tread on or crush 
any insect, or by accident swallow the tiniest mite. They strain the water which 
they drink (a wise precaution for sanitary reasons), and they will not eat or drink in 
the dark lest they should inadvertently swallow life. This care arises from their 
belief that life everywhere, whether in trees or animals or man, is one and the same ; 
they contend for the identity of life in all kinds of existences. In the hospital all 
sick or maimed animals are treated, from the elephant to the dog ; even fleas and 
other vermin are carefully nursed. Crows, cows, monkeys, serpents are regarded as 
more or less pervaded by Divinity, and any noxious insect or reptile may be an 

1 86 



BO MB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

incarnation of a deceased relative. Tlie Jina is "a conquering saint," and the 
principal point in the creed of Jainas is the reverence paid to holy men u^ho have 
attained perfection. One way of winning perfection is to found a hospital for 
broken-down animals, or to build a new temple. 

Having hired a steam-launch, we started one beautiful morning fosr the island of 
Elephanta, six miles southeast of Bombay, and after a delightful passage reached 
the landing-place, a long narrow pier, in an hour and a half. A stone pathway and 




ENTRANCE TO THE CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 



steps lead up to the famous caves, where the custodian furnishes you with ; ticket of 
admission ; and with the guide-book you can decipher all that is to be seen. Three 
massive columns, cut out of the solid rock, divide the entrance, and support a huge 
overhanging clif? mantled with verdure and draped with flowering creepers. The 
regularity of the pillars, which run in parallel lines, and the coarseness of the work- 
manship, indicate the comparative lateness of the work. The great cave is about 
one hundred and thirty feet deep and equally wide, hollowed out of trap rock, huge 
pillars being left in rows to support the roof, which is about twenty feet high. This 
is a very fair specimen of the rock temples of the Hindus. Facing you in the dis- 
tance, at the back of the cave as you enter, is a fine colossal cutting of the Hindu 
trinity: Brahma the creator in the center, Vishnu the preserver on your left, Siva the 
destroyer on your right. The three faces are combined as if in three huge heads, 

187 



BOMB A V PRESIDENCY. 



and the carving of the head-dresses is very carefully executed. On every hand huge 
bas-reliefs stare passively from the rocky walls around, and represent Siva in various 
forms, with his wife Parvati. The fact that all the designs in the cavern clearly refer 




GROTTO AT KENNERY. 



to Siva only, has led to the conclusion that the entire temple was dedicated to him, 
under the name Trimurti, and that the three colossal heads in the center represent 
him only, in three different characters ; the center being in feature calm and benev- 
olent, that on the left merry and joyous, that on the right fierce and revengeful. 
On the west side of this monster hall is the most holy place, wherein there rises an 

I8S 



BOMB A V PRESIDENCY. 



immense linga shrine, the emblem of the creative powers of the universe, and the 
most frequent, indeed, the universal object of idolatry throughout India. Around 
are giant Brahmans in stone placed as guards ; and hither, in the days when worship 
was celebrated in the temple, the costliest offerings were brought. We pause before 




BAS-RELIEFS, GATEWAY OF KARLI. 

this in horror and sadness, as we think of the age which could revel in the beliefs 
which these figures embody. On the east side a panel depicts the birth o^ the ele- 
phant-headed god of wisdom, Gancsh. Here, too, is what Is called the Lions' Cave, 
on account of two colossal lions in basalt, which were discovered in some excavations, 
and have been placed here. Again you have Siva as an ascetic, and Siva m the 
dance. In fact, there is quite a theogony here. The flat, ponderous roof of moun- 
tain, the pillars as if pressed down and bulging out with its weight, the somber gloom 

189 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

pervading the recesses, and the weird and fantastic carvings on every hand, give to 
the place an air of mysteriousness and gloom. If civilized man views it with amaze- 
ment, and is impressed with its grandeur, no wonder that devout and credulous 
Hindus once regarded it with awe as the dwelling-place of an omnipotent and re- 
lentless deity. This huge and gloomy rock-temple dates as far back as the ninth 
century of our era. Outside, the land is fertile, romantic, and hilly, a delightful 
contrast, as the temple of the Almighty, to the dark idol shrine within. Boys brought 
for sale beautifully colored flies and pendent birds' nests. The excursion to and from 




INTERIOR OF GREAT DAGOBA OF KARLI. 



Elephanta is easily accomplished in a day, and there is no pleasanter one in the 
neighborhood of Bombay. 

What the caves of Elephanta were for Brahmanism the Kennery oaves were for 
Buddhism. The visitor at Bombay has within a day's excursion a very interesting 
:specimen of both these classes of cave architecture. The Kennery caves are six 
miles from Tanna railway station. They are almost a hundred in number, and are 
hollowed out of a large hill in a tract of thick forest. The pillars of the great cave 
are somewhat like those of Elephanta ; but in the Vihara, which is about forty yards 
long, there is a colossal figure of Buddha on either side. Flights of steps lead up to 
the top of the hill, which commands an extensive view, and here are a number of 
smaller caves, all with indications of Buddhist worship. Traces of plaster and paint- 

igo 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

ing are observable, supposed to be the work of the Buddhists when driven from 
Karli. Many of these rock-temples were no doubt originally natural caves. Being 
carved in the living rock, and not built up with stone, they remain just as they were 
at the beginning, and have not been altered or repaired. The Kennery caves bear 
date about the fifth century of our era. Dr. Wilson enumerates no fewer than thirty- 
seven groups of these cave temples in the Bombay Presidency, the greater number 
beine of Buddhist oriorin. Those of Elura were the first, then followed the Karli 
caves, and the latest imitations of them are the Jain excavations. Of all these rock- 
temples the finest perhaps are those of Karli, about eighty miles by railway from 
Bombay. The great Chaitya cave here is hewn in the face of a precipice, two-thirds 
up the side of a thickly wooded hill. In front of it stands the Lion Pillar, a monolith 
of exquisite architectural proportions, with four stone lions back to back in its capi- 
tal. The doorway is through a screen carved with colossal figures. The cave itself 
looks like an oblong church, with a nave and side aisles. It is forty yards long by 
twelve yards wide, and has a semicircular apse behind the shrine. The roof is dome- 
like, ornamented by a series of wooden rafters, and resting on forty pillars, each hav- 
ing a richly molded capital on which kneel two elephants, each bearing two figures. 
The Chaitya, or dagoba, is a dome on a circular drum surmounted by the remains of 
a wooden chattar, or umbrella. The only light which is admitted from without 
comes from a horseshoe window, and falls on this object with great effect. The 
sculptures represent the aboriginal tribes doing obeisance to Buddha. From in- 
scriptions that have been deciphered, the date of this Buddhist temple is about b. c. 
78. There is nothing in ancient Buddhist architecture that so closely resembles 
mediaeval Christian building. Not the least wonderful here are the reservoirs of 
ever cool water, some of them of great depth and cut out of the living rock. The 
finest cathedrals of Europe do not always excite such emotions as the Karli temple 
dedicated to Gautama Buddha. It bears this inscription : " By the victorious and 
most exalted king, this rock mansion has been established, the most excellent in 
India." 

Leaving Bombay by the Great Indian Peninsula Railway, two hours will find us 
at Narel, fifty-three miles distant, and within six miles of Matheran, a healthy hill 
station about two thousand five hundred feet above the sea, where we find ourselves 
away from the noise and heat of the city, in the midst of lovely scenery and a pure 
and buoyant atmosphere, with the scent of wild flowers and the songs of birds. 
There are fine views of the Ghats from Garbut Point, and Panorama Point com- 
mands the wide expanse of the Konkan, with the sea beyond. On the east of the 
hill is a noble grove, where magnificent trees are to be seen festooned by gigantic 
■creepers. Many Bombay merchants come out hither daily during the hot months. 
Resuming our railway journey, we now ascend the Bhore Ghat, which is two thou- 
sand feet above the sea-level. Here the mountains are precipitously scarped, and 
the railway wends its way, round precipices and in zigzags, to the summit of the 
tremendous ravine. At one point the angle is so sharp that trains cannot turn, and 
they reverse their direction on a level terrace. This range was considered the key 
■of the Deccan in the early wars of the English with the Mahrattas, and a proposal 
was made to fortify it. Better far is the traversing of it first by an excellent road, 
and next by a railway, which surmounts the barrier and brings Ponaa within six 
hours of Bombay. 

191 



BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 

PooNA is one of the old capitals of the Mahratta, or " Great Kingdom," as the 
word signifies, the other two capitals being Satura and Kolhapore. Here the Peishwa 
ruled till his defeat in 1818; and since that time the city has not been so flourish- 
ing. It is situated in a wide-stretching treeless plain, and is divided into seven 
quarters, called by the seven days of the week. The inhabitants are chiefly Hindus, 
and there are many Brahmans, fat and sleek, to be seen in the streets. The shrine 
of Parvati is on an eminence overlooking the town. Here are the Government 
English Schools, the Sanscrit College, and the military headquarters for Western 
India. Seventy miles journey south, by a good but hilly road, brings us to Mahable- 
SHWAR, a glorious sanitarium, four thousand seven hundred feet above the sea, and 
the Simla of the Bombay Presidency. It is now more easily approached by steam 
from Bombay to Dasgaum, and thence by the new Ghat road through Poladpur and 




MAHABLESHWAR. 



Warra. The late Rev. Dr. John Wilson, who had a bungalow here for many years, 
says it is " the most lovely spot that you can imagine. The scenery around is the 
grandest, the most beautiful, and the most sublime which I have yet witnessed dur- 
ing my earthly wanderings, extensive though they have been. The Mahableshwar is 
part of the Great Western Ghats, and four thousand seven hundred feet high, a 
loftiness surpassing the highest of Caledonia's mountains. The vegetation partakes 
of the magnificence of the tropics, but is enchanting to the dwellers in the climes of 
the sun, as in some respects resembling that of our beloved native land. At a dis- 
tance the ocean is seen as a vast mirror of brilliancy, reflecting the glory of the sky. 
The clouds baffle all description. Their various and changing hues, and multifarious 
forms and motions, as they descend to kiss the mountain brow, or remain above as 
our fleecy mantle, or interpose between us and the luminary of heaven to catch its 
rays, and to reveal their colored splendor, fill the mind with the most intense de- 
light. The fort is curiously formed on the summit of one of the highest elevations ; 
and it is associated with all the interest and romance of Mahratti history. The 
192 ' 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 



native town is spacious, busy, and regular, to a degree seldom seen in this country. 
The camp is very agreeably situated ; and the Residency has a beautiful neighbor- 
hood." 

No European knew the Bombay Presidency so well as did Dr. Wilson. He 
went out in 1829, and soon became an eminent champion of the Christian religion 
with Parsis, Mohammedans, and Hindus. He x2.'CiV&A facile princeps among Oriental 
scholars, was President of the _ _ 

Bombay Asiatic Society, wrote ^~^^^^~^~~"" 

several valuable treatises, and 
was consulted upon political 
questions by the highest au- 
thorities in India. He trav- 
eled through every part of 
the Bombay Presidency ; and 
after a life-sojourn of forty- 
seven years, he died, esteemed 
and lamented by all classes, 
on the 1st of December, 1875. 
The Free Church Institute 
stands a monument of his 
labors in the city. I went 
through the several class- 
rooms with deep interest and 
surprise, and addressed the 
senior class of native stu- 
dents, who spoke English flu- 
ently, and greatly astonished 
me with their intelligent ques- 
tions. I also visited the Jews 
School, in which Dr. Wilson 
took deep interest, for there 
are man)' Beni-Israel, as they 
are called, in Bombay. Here 
are nearly a hundred Jewish 
children, boys and girls, learn- 
ing Hebrew and English, and 
reading the Hebrew Bible. 
The American Board missions in Bombay date from 1813, and have been all 
along conducted with zeal and efficiency. Driving across the Esplanade one 
Saturday, I saw a large crowd of Hindus gathered at the foot of one of the statues ; 
and in the midst of them stood the venerable Rev. George Bowen, holding an open- 
air service, and preaching the Gospel of Christ. He, like Dr. Wilson, is a veteran 
in mission work, and is highly esteemed by the Hindus. 

The Bombay Presidency extends southward past the Portuguese settlement of 
Goa, and includes North Kanara. The first sigrht of Goa is maofnificent, and the 
houses look substantial ; but it is evident that little remains but the churches and 
some other public buildings. The view from the turrets of the Augistinian convent 

193 




JEWESSES, BOMBAY. 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

is magnificent. The four Gairsoppa Falls, three hundred and forty miles south of 
Bombay, in North Kanara, are reckoned among the chief wonders of India. No- 
vember is the best month to visit them. They are named the " Rajah," the " Roarer," 
the " Rocket," and " Dame Blanche." The first falls in a single leap a depth of 
eight hundred feet, but the other three glide in a thick body of water down the 
sloping rocks. 

Northward the Bombay Presidency embraces the peninsular lands of Gujarat 
and Kutch, and the district called Sinde, which includes the mouths of the Indus. 
Taking the Bombay and Baroda line, we reach Surat, one hundred and sixty-seven 
miles, in eight hours, an ugly town, but famous in history, and an outpost of the Mah- 
rattas. It was one of the first English settlements in India, and declined as Bombay 
supplanted it. Here there are several factories, and the place is well known for its 
cotton. The inhabitants of Surat have shown great intelligence and spirit in re- 
sisting unjust taxation. The tombs of the governors of the English and Dutch fac- 
tories are immense structures, in imitation of Mohammedans, and meant to impress 
the natives with the greatness and wealth of the owners. The railway stations along 
this line are beautifully kept, and have gardens smiling with flowers. Another 
hundred miles are traversed in about five hours, and we reach Baroda, the capital of 
the Mahratta chief called the Gaikwar, or "cowherd." The city is divided into four 
quarters by wide streets, meeting in the center at a spacious market-place. The 
population is said to be two hundred thousand. The houses are mostly of wood, 
and the country around is charmingly fertile. The Gaikwar's court is a scene of 
great splendor. He entertains European guests sumptuously, though the enter- 
tainments are somewhat of a barbaric character, involving the cruelty of elephant 
and rhinoceros fights, and combats of gladiators, which sometimes prove fatal. 
" Baroda," says Dr. Wilson, " is considered a cesspool of moral corruption. Not- 
withstanding the productions of much of its soil, it has seldom, if ever, been free 
from embarrassments of debt. Much caprice is shown in the exactions made from the 
agricultural population. The administration of justice has been most imperfect and 
partial." The grandeur of the sowaris, or processions of the Gaikwar, is quite daz- 
zling. The prince himself rides on a noble elephant, whose howra is of silver, pre- 
sented by the Queen of England ; and in the procession comes the standard-bearer, 
also mounted on an elephant. Here to this day we see how, as Milton says : 

The gorgeous East 
Showers on her kings barbaric pearl and gold. 

In the neighborhood of Gogo, north of Baroda, in the peninsula of Kathiawar, 
where are the best Lascars, or sailors, in India, is the famous Jain hill of temples 
called Palitana. The Jains regard temple-building as a virtue, and these temples 
range in date from the fifth century of our era down to the present time. The 
grouping together of temples is a peculiarity which the Jains practice to a greater ex- 
tent than the followers of any other religion in India. The hill commands an exten- 
sive view, and the temples are among the most costly in India, built of sandstone or 
basalt, the floors and doorposts of marble, and a good deal of the workmanship is 
mosaic. The images are decorated with ear-rings, necklaces, armlets, and the wonder 
is that such an amount of treasure has remained unmolested. The Jaina priests 
here wear cloth shoes. They carry a broom to sweep the road and put all insects 

194 



BOMB A Y PRESIDENCY. 

out of the way of harm, and a mouth-cloth to prevent insects from entering their 
mouths when praying. They believe that all life— the life of vegetables, brutes, 
men, gods — however diffused, is equally sacred. " How many lives are there," asked 
Dr. Wilson, " in a pound of water?" "An infinite number," was the reply. "How 
many are there in a bullock?" "One." " You kill then thiDusands of lives, while 
the Mussulman butcher kills one." 

The city which bears the clearest marks of Mohammedan conquests in Gujarat 
is Ahmadabad, where there are several large mosques ; but even these indicate 
the power of Jainism reacting upon the Moslem conquerors. A drive to the long 
deserted, but once lordly -pleasure-place, at some distance from the city, on the banks 
of the river, reveals to the tourist the parklike character of Gujarat. Wheat is ex- 
tensively grown, especially in the northern part, rice and the sugar cane flourish, and 
mango trees are in great abun- 
dance. Southward cotton is 
widely cultivated. Along the 
coast there lies Somnath, where 
was the temple regarding which 
Lord Ellenborough became the 
laughing-stock of India when, 
in his heated and unprincipled 
policy, he made his empty boast 
that he would return with a 
flourish the Somnath Gates car- 
ried away by the Afghans eight 
centuries before. The gates 
never got beyond Agra ; they 
probably never belonged to the 
temple, which is a ruin, now ut- 
terly forsaken, traversed by the 
village swine. The image in 
it which the Moslems destroyed 
was the Linga, and the remains 

of the temple carvings which they broke are of such a character that their destruc- 
tion is scarcely a matter for surprise or regret. Farther north we reach the granite 
rock of GiRNAR, containing the Asoka inscriptions. On the mountain are the ruins 
of Buddhist dagobas, and from one of the peaks Hindus who get tired of life throw 
themselves down, in the hope of making a speedy journey to heaven. The view from 
the top embraces the adjoining hills and a wide range of low country. But the Gir- 
nar Rock ranks in historical literature with the Rosetta stone. It was first deci- 
phered in 1835 by Dr. Wilson, who writes : " After comparing the letters with several 
Sanscrit alphabets in my possession, I found myself able, to my great joy and that 
of the Brahmans who were with me, to make out several words, and to decide as to 
the probable possibility of making out the whole." The inscriptions cover a hundred 
square feet of the uneven surface of a huge rounded and conical granite bowlder 
twelve feet high. They record the character of the great and good Asoka. 

Sailing still northwest along the coast of Gujarat we reach Dwarka, which was 
once in the west of India what Puri, the shrine of Juggernaut, is still in the east. 

195 







THE GIRNAR ROCK. 



BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 

The temple has a lofty steeple, and it stands on an elevated piece of ground with a 
flight of steps leading down to a creek of the sea, which is regarded as a sacred bath- 
ing-place. Its celebrity is greatly on the wane, and the decreasing number of pil- 
grims witnesses to the gradual decline of superstition among the people. 

The state called Kutch forms a connecting link between Gujarat and Sinde. It 
is almost an island, two hundred miles long by one hundred broad, intersected bytwo 
mountain ranges, and somewhat sterile in character, owing to lack of water. Cotton 
is the main crop. Under the influence of British counsel, specially of the excellent 
Dr. Gray, the Rao adopted many beneficent measures, suppressed the slave-trade 
and infanticide, and proved himself one of the most learned and humane of the 
Indian princes. His capital is Bhooj, which was converted into a heap of ruins in 
1819 by the great earthquake that was felt throughout India, even to Calcutta and 




ON THE INDUS. 



Pondicherry. The Runn of Kutch is a flat region of seven thousand square miles, 
the dried-up bed of an inland sea, barren and unfruitful, and sometimes overflowed 
by the sea, which leaves large salt deposits. The sudden changes of land into sea, 
and sea into land, show the revolutions still possible on the earth. 

The most northerly portion of the Bombay Presidency is Sinde, which includes 
the delta of the Indus. The morale of the policy which conquered and annexed this 
country in 1843 '^^s well .summed up in the parody upon the short dispatch of Sir 
C. Napier, Peccavi, " I have Sinde." But whatever may have been the errors of 
early English rule, the wise policy of Lord Dalhousie provided for such administra- 
tive and engineering improvements in Sinde, as promise to make " young" Kgypt," as it 
is called, more than rival o/d; although the Indus can never equal the Nile. Dr. Wil- 
son, of Bombay, was the first Protestant missionary who opened his lips in Sinde ; 
this was in 1850, and at Karachi. By the battle-field of MianI and the fort of 
Haidarabad, where the governor had just received the homage of the chiefs, the two 
missionaries. Duff and Wilson, met thirty years ago, and made plans for educational 

iq6 



BOMB A V PRESIDENCY. 



and mission work which since have borne abundant fruit. The rising port of 
Karachi has now upward of fifty thousand inhabitants. It is connected by railway 
with Calcutta, by telegraph with Bassora and Europe, and by steamship, like Bom- 
bay, with all parts of the world. 

The prosperity of India depends upon the steady growth and spread of political 
justice, male and female education, Christian missions, and literature. Justice must 
be done by the legal recognition of peasant right, making ryot and tenant joint 
sharers in the increasinsf value of 
the land : by reduced taxation, re- 
lieving the burdens which now 
crush the people ; by careful cur- 
tailment of military and civil ser- 
vice expenditure, moderating sal- 
aries, employing native talent ; by 
wise expenditure in irrigation and 
other public works, thus averting 
famine and increasing the food 
supply ; and by a steady course 
of firm, just, and wise legislation. 
In education more must be done 
by Government for the mass of 
the population, elementary schools 
for the people being supported, 
and advanced colleges for the 
rich being left to support them- 
selves ; while schools and colleges 
under missionary management are 
more liberally aided and encour- 
aged, and zenana work and board- 
ing schools for girls and orphanages supplemented by grants in aid. But, above all, 
our hope for India is in the circulation of the Scriptures and of a healthy Christian 
periodical literature, weekly and monthly, as in other parts of the world, and in the 
humble, zealous, self-denying labors of the " fishers of men " called and sent by the 
Lord Jesus, publishing the gospel of peace, bringing good tidings to the sin- 
burdened and sin-bound. Thus Christ's Kingdom shall prevail, and India will 
become hopeful, enlightened, self-governed, prosperous, and free. 




IN CHRISTIAN GIRLS SCHOOL, AGRA. 



197 



INDEX. 



Adam's Bridge, 13 
Adam's Footprint, 27 
Adam's Peak, 20, 26 
Adinath, 173 
Agra, 134 ■ 
Ahmadabad, 195 
Ajanta, 181 
Ajmere, 170 
Aldeen, 99 
Allahabad, 142 
A^u H'l'har^, 31 
Alwar, 172 
Ambernath Cave, i6i 



Cawnpore, 133 

Central India Agency, 172 

Ceylon, 13 

Ceylon, Christianity in, 34 

Chaitya, iSi, igi 

Chanda, 84 

Chandernagore, 100 

Chidpore Road, 95 

Chillambaram, 39, 68 

Chittore, 170 

Chotia Nagpur, 115 

Choultries, 51 

Chowky The, 129 



American Missions, 36, 56. Church Missionary Society, 
80, 100, 129, 164, 182 
Cinchona Plantations, 110 
Circars, Northern, 87 



144, 140 
Amravati, 80, 160 
Amritsar, 155 
Anderson, Dr., 76 
Amira-japflra, 12, 31, 33 
Arcot, 76 
Armagan,*73 
Asoka, King, 31, 33. "6, 125, 

151 
Assam, 100 
Attock, 92 
Aukana Wihara, 32 



Baktawar Sing, 172 

Bangalore, 76, 85 

Banyan Tree, 96 

Baptist Missions, 100, 154 

Bareilly, 131 

Barmul Pass, 92 

Baroda 194 

Barrackpore, 98 

Batticotta, 36 

Bees, 180 

Behar, 116 

Bells, Church, 48, 121 

Benares, 69, 119, 157 

Betel, The, 18 

Bhilsa, 174 

Bhisti, 66 

Bhooj, 196 

Bhooteas, 107 

Bhopal, 174 

Bhore Ghat, 179, igt 

Bhowries, 115 

Bhutas, T2 

Bhuvaneswar, 88 

Birsing Deo, 194 

Bithoor, 134 

Black Hole of Calcutta, 95 

Bo Tree, 29, 116 

Boats on Ganges, 116 

Bombay, 184 

Botanical Gardens, 29, 96, 
109 

Brahma, iSg 

Brahmanism, 72, 120, 181 

Erahmans, 62, 97 

Brahmaputra, The, 100 

Brahmo-somaj, 98 

Brass Work, 123 

Euddh Gaya, 31, 116 

Buddha, 28, 88 

Buddha's tooth, 28, 88 

Buddhism, 28, 36, 71, 88, 107, 
Ti6, 181 

Bull, sacred, 39, 65 

Bundelcund, 194 

Calcutta, 92 
Canadian Mission, 83 
Canarese, 50 
Cane bridges, log 
Canoes, 18 
Carey, William, 99 
Carnatic, The, 50 
Cashmere Gate, poetrj', 153 
Caste, 62, 76 
Catamarans, 79 



Clivc, Lord, 76, 95, 100 
Coal Fields, 115, 180 
Cocoa-nut Palm, 44 
Coconada, 83 
Coimbatore, 6r 
Colaba, 184 
Collector, The, 97 

Colombo, 16, 19 

Combaconum, 63 

Comorin Cape, 40, 47 

Conjeveram. 69 

CooiUs, 20, 39 

Coorg, 76 

Coromaudel Coast. 39, 88 

Cotton Factories, 98, 194 

Cruelty, 91 

Cuddalore, 67 

Cuttack, 87,92 



Dak Bungalows, 103 
Dalada, The, 26 
Dalhousie, 166 
Dambulla, 32 
Darjeeling, 100 
Darwinism, 121 
Deccan The, 84, igi 
Delhi, 112, 136 
Dhamek, 126 
Dharmsala, 165 
Dipawansa, The, 17 
Doabs, 148 
Doulatabad, 182 
Dravidian Architecture, 51 
Dravidians, 50 

Duff, Dr.. 95, 196 

Durga, 121 

Duttiah, 174 

Dwarka, 195 

Elephant. The, 25, 129 
Elephanta Caves, 160, 187 
Elk of Ceylon, 22 
Elura Caves, 182 
Elysium, 163 
Eurasians, 184 



Gautama, 17, 28, 31, 116, 125, 

191 
Gaya, 31, 116, 125 
Ghdts, The, 40, 80, 119 
Goa, 172, 193 
Godavery, The, S3, 84, 

182 
Gogo, 194 
Gonds, 172 
Gopuras, 51 
Greek Invasion, 159 
Gujarat, 195 
Gungapore, 182 
Gwalior, 173 

Haidarabad, 84, 196 
Happy Valley, The, 160 
Hastings, Warren, 95 
Havelock. Sir Henry, 131 
Himalayas, 103, no, 164 
Hindu Trinity, 187 
Hinduism, 35,71, 120 
Hoogly, The, 92, 96,-98 
Hospitals, 74, 186 
Hunter. Dr. W. W., 181 

Iambara, The, 129 
Idolatry, 120 
Indore, 170, 17a, x8i 
Indus, The, 112, 157, 159 
Introductory, ix, x 

Jabalpur, 179 
Jaffna, 36 

Jains, The, 115, 169, 1741 187, 
194 

Jaipur, 171 
Jalna, 84 
yampan^ 162 
Jina, The, 187 
yiziah. The, 123 
Juggernaut, 89. 176, 195 
Jumna Musjid, 149 

Kailas, The, 182 
Kali Ghat. 96 
Kanarak, 88 
Kandy, 13, 27 
Karli, 191 
Kashmir, 160 
Kathiwar, 194 
Kennery Caves, 190 
Khansaviahy The, 103 
Khatmandu, 107 
King Pal, 173 
Kolhapore, 192 
Kols, The, 115 
Konkan, The, 184, 191 
Krishna, 88 
Kshuttries, 62 
Kutch ,196 
Kutub Minar, 154 

Laddar Vallev, 161 
Lahore, 112. 156 
Land in India, zi2 



Malabar Hill, iSs 
Malayalam, 44 
Mango trees, 180 
Marble Rocks, The, 180 
Mahrattas, 172, 191 
Martiniere, The, 126 
Martyn, Henry, 199 
Masulah Boats, 79 
Masulipatam, 80 
Minakshi, 51 
Moguls, The, 136, 140, 

172 
Mohammedans, 149 
Mongolians, 104 
Mopani Coalfields, 180 
Mudden Mahal, 179 
Muezzin, The, 150 
Multan, 147^ 157 
Mysore, 76 

Nagpur. 84, 181 
Naini, Tal, 132 
Narbada, The, 179 
Nassick, 182 
Nepal, 107 
Newera Ella, 21 
Nilgiri Hills. 6r 
Northwest Provinces, iig, 
132 

Opium, 112 
Oraons, The, 115 
Orchids, 21 
Orissa, 87 
Oude, 96, 136 



Fakirs, 121 

False Point, 91 

Famine. 75, 83 

Fergusson, Sir James, 67, 69, Landour, 164 
Ldts, 150 
Lavinia, Mt., 20 



70 
Feroz Shah, 149 
Flavel, Samuel, 76 
Free Church Colleges : 

Madras, 76 ; Calcutta, 95 ; 

Bombay, 193 
Free Church Missions, 84 
French Settlements, 67, k>o 
Futtepore Sikri, 141 

Gal-wihar, 32 
Galle, 13 

Ganesh, 43. 122, 189 
Ganges, 92, 96, loo, 163 
Ganjam, 84 



Lepers, 75 
Lepcha'J, 104 
i/«.'aw/, 68, 123, 174 
London Missionary Society, 

44' 73. 84. 97i 121 
Lotus flower, 126 
Lucknow, 126 

Madras, 73 
Madura, 50 
Magadha, 31 
Mahableshwar, 192 
Mahavalipur, 70 



Palanquins, 83 

Palimcotta, 47 

Palitana, 195 

Palmyra Palms, 43, 83 

Pandu Lena, 182 

Pandya Kingdom, 68 

Parasnath, Mount, 84, 115 

Parawas, The, 17 

Pariahs, 62 

Parsis, 184 

Parvati,68» 188, 192 

Patan, 107 

Patna District, 115 

Pats, 115 

Pedro-talla-galla, 21 

Peridinia Gardens, 29 

Perur, 61 

Peshawar, 112, 159 

Phear, Sir J. B., 55, 113 

Pitakas, The, 17, 32 

Plassey, 100 

PoUonarua, 32 

Pondicherry, 67, 196 

Poona, 191 

Portuguese, The, 17, 34, 184, 

»93 
Poverty of the people, 113 

Pulastipura, 32 . 

Punjab, The, 147 
Puri, 73, 87, 195 

Rajputana, 169 
Rama, 182 
Ramboddie, 21 
Ranigung Coalfield, 115 
Ratnapura, 26, 36 
Reformed Church of Hol- 
land, 35 
Religious Mendicants, 97 
Romanism, 17, 34. 62 
Ruanvelly Dagoba, 34 
Rungaroon Gardens, 109 
Runjit Sing, 157 

Sacrifices. 97 
Saivism, 68, 69 



Sakhi Sanvar, 158 

Salsette, 184 

Salt-tax, 113, 172 

Sambar Salt Lake, 172 

Samnuggur, 08 

Sanchi, 160, 174 

Sanscrit, 112, 120 

Samath, 125 

Satura, 192 

Schwartz, C. F., 48, 59, 66, 

73 
Scudder, 76 
Sealkote, 160 
Secunderabad. 84 
Secunder Bagh, The, 129 
Sen, K. C.,98 
Sepoys, 134 
Seringapatam, 76 
Seringham, 60 
Seven Pagodas, The, 70 
Shillong, 100 

Shraddhas, n6 

Sikhs, The, 155 

Simla, 162 

Singalese, 14 

Siva, 27, 65, 69, 96, 120, 
187 

Snakes, 181 

Somnath Gates, 136, 195 

Sonaghur, 174 

Srinagur, 158, 161 

Stupds, 125. 174 

Sudras, 62 

Taj, The, 134 
Tambiravami, The, 47 
Tamil, 14, 48 
Tamils, 20, 39, 47 

Tanjore, 59 

Taragar, 170 

Tea, 21, 109 

Telugu, 80, 84 

Teppu-kulam, 55 

Thibetans, 107 

Thomas, 44 

Thuggism, 114, 151 

Thugs, 114, 174 

ThuU Ghat, 183 

Titans and Jewelers, 135 

Tiger Cave, 73 

Tigers, 96, 180 

Tinnevelly, 44 

Tirupetty, 76 

Towers of Silence, 1006 
Transmigration of souls, 174 

Travancore, 44 
Trichinopoly, 59 

Trincomalee, 13, 31 

Tudas, 61, 62 

Tuticorin, 40 



Udaipur, 169 

Vaisyas, 62 
Vedas, The, 83, 120 
Vimana., 51, 88, 
Vindhya Mountains, 84 
Vishnu, 69, 88, 116, 120, 187 
Vishnuvism, 68, 69, 72 



Well of Salvation, 122 
Wesleyan Missions, 36 
Williams, Dr. Monier, 71 
Wilson, Bishop, 95 
Wilson, Dr. John, 182, 192 
Woman's strength, 169 

Zamindars, 112 
Zenanas Mission, 155 
Zendavesta, The, 186 
Zoroaster, 186 









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